OldiesonTour

Monday 5th July

Woke up in Trebs, and the weather was back to normal.

OK, it’s Monday and hopefully we will get to see a doctor.  Catriona has very kindly said she would organise one for us, living in France and speaking French like a native and knowing the system, perfect.

Soon after breakfast we received a message from Catriona, appointment booked for 11.00am and gave us the address.  When I plugged the address into SatNav the results was impressive, the surgery was 3-minutes away.  Many thanks Catriona, you’ve done it again👍👍👍👍

At the appointed time we arrived at the Doctor’s and after about a five minute wait, we were in.   Fortunately during the morning I had written a short history of what had happened over the past week or so and thanks to Google translate, hey presto, it was all in French.   When he had sat down I presented my ‘phone to him with fingers crossed the translate actually meant something; we’ve experienced times when “facts go in, and dribble comes out” but fortunately not on this occasion, he understood and between his moderate English and my poor French, we made headway.    After blood pressure and Temperature tests followed by a “cursory” examination, as predicted he said I had an infection and needed antibiotics and gave me a prescription.  He also told me to go the the Health Laboratory and have a urine test before swallowing the antibiotics tablets, but he said due to my “age” (red rag to a bull) I must get a taxi as it was about a 20-minute walk.  We had a quick look to see if there was such a beast but no, so with the help of good old SatNav, we headed out; it was hot though, on the Pharmacy Sign it recorded 35-degrees.

Anyway, 20-minutes later, up hill 🥵🥵 we walked into the laboratory.  Who would have thought such a small sleepy town would have a very large complex of laboratories!!!   No queue so immediately given a container, which struggled to fill as I had just stopped en-route, handed it back in, paid my dues and was told I would get the results on line, on Wednesday and gave me the address, password and case number to achieve this; hopefully!!!!

Back down the hill and 20-minutes we were back on board; “at my age” huh.

After a quick lunch we were on our way, Carcassonne being our target.  The canal up this end is much more interesting but the price is more locks.  This journey is only 13 kms and     6- big and deep locks and there is more traffic so it was slow progress but more importantly there is a big hospital in Carcassonne and we can also moor-up in the centre of town, and should we need further medical treatment, this was handy.

As we progressed it was becoming blatantly clear my infection wasn’t going away and though I had taken two antibiotics pills, there was not even a small relief.

We arrived into the port basin and had a choice of berths so chose no-13, probably not the best choice under the circumstances, however we did fly from Antigua to Gatwick on Friday 13th at the start of the COVID thing so🤞🤞🤞🤞.

Resting after a days pottering on the canal usually brings things back to “sort-of-normal”  so After dinner a couple of games of cards and then watching a re-run of the England V USA. Game from Twickenham we were hoping for improvement, but half way through the second half the decision was made to head to the hospital.  By this time it was dark and fairly late but fortunately the main station was across the canal so picked up a taxi very quickly and on arrival he dropped us off at A&E.   

There was a queue outside we think but hey, by-pass that, I am in trouble.

To cut a long boring story short, I was admitted and am writing this from my room in this massive hospital.

But that’s not all.   Whilst all this was happening to me, poor ChristIne had to sit outside with all the people we thought were in the queue but fortunately it didn’t turn out to be a queue of people waiting admission but rather people like ChristIne waiting for news.   COVID regulations, again!

Once the decision has been made to admit me, ChristIne had to get home and the 24hour Taxi company I had a card for, actually didn’t operate 24hours, and though the hospital ‘phoned on her behalf, it looked increasingly as if she would have to spend the night sitting and shivering outside A&E.

But we all know ChristIne is resourceful and she “collared” some poor old Frenchman (Not a word of English did he speak, good old google!) after he had deposited someone to the hospital she then “persuaded” him  “can you please drop me at the port”!!!!  “Oui Madame” he replied so ChristIne got back to Daisy, albeit in the early hours of the morning ( 2.45am )safe and sound; Thank you Monsieur, whoever you are, what a great chap

Sunday 4th July

We woke up to rain, ouch not really wanting this! Still hopefully it won’t last but the forecast wasn’t too kind about being overcast.  After breakfast we donned our cagoules, and we were off.  Fortunately the rain eased so we didn’t get too wet though the sky looked full of it all morning.   

The canal was even less busy, probably due to most holidaymakers being “fair-weather” French folk!

We haven’t described “Daisy” and sometime in the future we will not remember the details of layout etc., and we will be annoyed; an age thing you know!!!!

We are 9.5-meters in length, designed to take 4-adults and that’s a joke.  Yes there are two doubles but minimal space if both put down.  In the centre on the port side is the self-contained head and directly opposite on the starboard side is a wet room with a very good shower.  There are two modesty panels that pull out to give privacy when needed.

Being just the two of us we’ve made the forward bed up, and the stern bed during the day is the dining table as it is directly opposite the galley.  We don’t know where the table goes when this double bed is in use!  As I said, ideal for two.

Opposite our bed is the inside helm which wasn’t used until we realised we were spending all day in the heat of the sun which was made unbearable once we had lost our parasol.  So we go down in the heat but still have to be up top to control the boat when going in and out of the locks.   ChristIne is obliged to be on the chamber wall and I throw the lines to her.   These are big deep locks and being on the fly ridge makes throwing the lines easier.

Daisy being a sort of “tub” with an electric propellor that we think is also the rudder, control is interesting, I hope this isn’t the future or if so, re-design everything to make the system more efficient 

Having said all this, we are very comfortable and very glad we’ve done it.

The rain eased by lunchtime and by mid afternoon our cagoules were drying in the sun along with the bits of washing we had done.

Sunday night was spent in “Trebs” a very small un-interesting French town with plenty of empty mooring spaces; I wonder why!!!   We moored directly behind an English couple who, in their “Steel Cruiser” had been circumnavigating the European Canals for the past few years, and they intend to keep doing so.  They try and do 6-months a year, broken into a number of visits. They now have to work out the best plan for their circumstances bearing in mind the 90 day rule in 180 days now U.K. have left eu.  Just as an aside they voted “out” even knowing it might screw up their holiday life!!!

On the opposite quay were a number of bars and restaurants all doing good business, nice to see.

Tonight we had the Sunday Family Zoom chat  and then it was the Austrian Grand Prix highlights and the 1st Lions match on tour in South Africa to catch up with, followed by bed.

Saturday 3rd July

Being a very hot night, surrounded by Pine trees and of course on the water, leaving the windows open wasn’t the best idea, however we either took our chances or slept in a sauna; we took our chances and boy did we suffer, we were both bitten by midges, we both suffered and disturbed each other during the night.  When morning arrived it was a welcome relief, and as we were still on mains with water on tap, straight into the shower.

Apart from the “midges” last night, we are in a very pretty and peaceful spot and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast discussing amongst other things whether we were bitten by “Midges” or “Mosquitoes”; I said Midges and ChristIne said Mosquitoes, who knows, but they “nipped” us!!!

Off we went, our next stop “Le Somail” where according to “the book” there is a grocery shop on a Dutch barge, which is very important as we need a few basic provisions.  The other place of interest is an “Madame Gourgues antiquarian bookshop shop”: this village was also a staging post during those heady days when there were passenger boats plying their trade transporting people from end to end, a four day trip.  We travelled the two and a bit kms arriving in time for an early coffee, but no, chores had to be done first so off we pottered to the water-based grocer and replenished our cupboard with wine, and oh yes, some other minor essentials.   Opposite the grocer’s barge was the wonderful book shop mentioned, so naturally had to pay a visit.  Goodness me, how many books are there here, the aisles  between the bookshelves were quite narrow as they had squeezed in extra shelves, at the rear there was a mezzanine floor, probably held up by the book shelves below!! And naturally full of books.  They seemed to have everything, well in French anyway.   I know Hay-on-wye is famous for secondhand book shops but I reckon this shop held as many books as all the shops in Hay put together.   If that wasn’t enough, in the centre they had display cabinets showing the rare valuable editions, naturally under lock and key!!!!

Back to Daisy for coffee and a brandy before heading off to Argens where we hoped to find a pharmacy.

Apart for a short stop for lunch, we motored on and arrived in the original Marina where we knew we could get help in finding an open Pharmacy, being Saturday afternoon we were a little worried.  With their help they located a chemist and they organised a taxi for us.   

We don’t know how lucky we are in Spain where you can get medicines over the counter with little problem, but we were informed that here no antibiotics, whatsoever, are sold without a prescription, oh dear after all that, so back to the boat with some herbal stuff instead.

Back on board and we headed out, our intention was to leave before the “fresh intake” of boaters got going.  We watched several of them receiving their “instructions”, made us wary hence our eagerness to be out in front!!!

Arrived at our next lock accompanied by two other boats, the canal from now on looks more spectacular so we are pleased about that though to achieve it the original builders have added many more locks for good measure!!!!!

My little problem became more of a bigger issue so when we arrived at Homps, we moored up for the night.   When we collected the boat we paid extra to get mobile WiFi, and after dinner, thanks to “Martin”, who sorted me with a U.K. VPN, we were able to watch the Austrian GP qualifying on Channel 4; many thanks Martin.  ChristIne was also able to join “the girls” for the usual Saturday “chat”.

With my little problem and knowing I would be “up-and-down like a fan dancers draws” we decided to make up the spare bed using the plastic seat covers from outside, just in case!!!

We both had disturbed nights unfortunately and in the morning we woke up to rain; whatever next!!

Friday 2nd July

Yesterday we considered staying another day here in Bezier but to get to the centre of the historic town, which is a mile or so away, and after climbing the hill last night we had second thoughts!!!  I do have to say it was certainly worth the climb last night, we had a very enjoyable evening and after COVID, it was great to see all the locals out enjoying themselves either in the cafes and restaurants or just wandering through the park with all the effigies with their children; it was more like life used to be, just hope all the close socialising doesn’t bring on a new outbreak.

Again we got up to blue skies and blazing sun, another “hot ‘un”, defiantly factor 50 on our noses, but unfortunately we can’t hang around as there is a given time to traverse the staircase and it started at 1000am: if we missed it we would had to wait ‘till 1600hrs.

Today we are heading upstream and arrived at the first lock, just round the bend from the staircase 3rd in the queue, but fortunately they are very big locks so they got all 3-of us in ok.

This first lock was gentle, only took us up about 2-meters and we now headed towards the staircase. Whilst going in ChristIne was told she had to get off “Daisy” with her line and walk, but by this time we were in, still that was her instruction so she had to scramble from the fly bridge to get ashore.  The female lock keeper we think was a descendant of “Hitler”, barking out orders, “don’t do that” or “don’t do this”, all three of our boat crews were given their instructions by “Adolfina”, anyway we were in and attached.   By-gum, there is no quarter given by these lock keepers, the deluge of water hitting us certainly throws the boats around, no wonder they don’t recommend plastic boats on the French Canals.

Whilst all this was going on and I “cruised” between the chambers, ChristIne climbed the 100 plus steps!!!   As I said earlier we started third in line to access the locks, but with all the shuffling that went on, we were first out at the top, result or what, we knew the other two boats were slower due to too much “faffing about” on their part.

Irrespective of our thoughts regarding Adolfina , we must say the whole crew of lock keepers were extremely efficient.

Yesterday we used the parasol they gave us between bridges as the sun was too strong.  Today we did the same but the wind was a little stronger.  Whilst ChristIne was on the helm and I was downstairs fetching something, I heard a clatter and as I looked behind me a saw our parasol disappearing under the water, sunk without a trace; Oops, add it to our bill!!!

We stopped for lunch at a village called “Poilhes” because according to the “book” there was a shop selling assorted provisions, so kill two birds with one stone.  We waited ‘till after 1400hrs as we know the French like their lunch hour but shock, horror, they didn’t open ‘till 1630hrs; we needn’t have stopped!!!!

Mid way through the afternoon we were really missing the parasol and the sun was beginning to get to us “up-top” on the fly bridge and we started to look for a night mooring, but to no avail.   We were heading for Capestang;  good moorings and as we know, a great restaurant, but alas there was no room whatsoever.   There were a good number of “Linssen” boats all together, perhaps they were the “Linssen owners club” having their rally; whatever it was our, plan was scuppered🥵🥵🥵 so on we travelled.  To alleviate the situation, we re-located to the helm inside the boat, oh yes, we should have done this before, much more comfortable.

Next we noted another restaurant en-route so I looked it up, it was called “Le Chat Qui Peche” (The Fishing Cat) ah yes, with a name like this it sounds promising, and the reviews were all very good as well, so that was our next destination.   Oh dear, another business failing to grasp what they could have, passing trade from the canal but of course no where to moor; disappointed we moved on and eventually found a mooring on the junction with the Narbonne.  Had to pay €20 for the privilege but we were hot, tired and hungry but the good news was, it included electricity and water, so long showers were the order of the day.

Adjacent to our mooring is a very odd, dingy looking hut, that purports to be a food outlet, to call it a restaurant would be an exaggeration, but enquired nevertheless from the man who took our money.   He told us it served “Mauritian Cuisine” and that it was “very good” so after our showers and a couple of aperitifs, we ventured in.  What we had missed when we first had a look was that there was a decking, partially hidden overlooking the other boats moored.

The guy who served us also doubled up as a broker, shipwright, mooring attendant and now waited at table.  It turned out he was from Leicester and had moved to France over 20-years ago.   

Looking at a rather limited menu we took our chances and ordered, a bottle of wine to start to dull our senses if the food wasn’t quite what it should be, then 2-Mauritian dishes with rice.   Firstly we chose “pork dishes” but were informed pork was off but they can do the same dish with “chicken” instead, oh well, whatever.  They took a little time to materialise which we took to be a good sign, freshly cooked.  After a few mouthfuls our faces lit up, the food was excellent, any preconceived ideas were put behind and the old saying about judging a book by its cover came to mind.

The deserts, though fairly plain were homemade and very tasty as well, so overall a big thumbs up from us.

Back to the boat for crib, ( I lost again c xx) no tv you see, then bed as very tired, worn out, but happy as we had eventually travelled 41-kms

Thursday 1st July

Still attached to the trees this morning, no one came and cut the ropes for breaking the rules!!!!  A nice quiet isolated spot, and in spite of being under the trees no mosquitoes, what could have been better.  A leisurely Breakfast whilst deciding where to go next.  The natural place is through Agde and then head into the Camargue proper.

“OK Cast off ChristIne”; I said “I have” was the reply, nothing happened, we were glued to the mud; couldn’t go forward, couldn’t go astern, and using both thrusters, couldn’t go sideways.   ChristIne was pushing with all her might on the boat hook, but to no avail. The downside to a quiet canal is there are few boats going by, in fact “zero” were about, we were on our own.

Using the two thrusters to port, to starboard, back to port etc., we eventually managed to “un-stick” the boat and then on full throttle, go astern and escape.  Decision: no more morning by trees!!!   It wasn’t as if we were against the bank, there was a reasonable gap so should have been safe🤔🤔🤔

Half an hour later we were on our way to Agde but were re-considering whether to go on or not as this part of the Canal du Midi isn’t very spectacular, in fact it’s boring, nothing to see.

Whilst “en route” we came across a un-masted yacht with a red ensign so stopped and had a chat. This couple were taking their yacht to the Mediterranean, then onto Spain where they were intending to leave it and use it as their Spanish holiday home.   They had sailed down through the Bay of Biscay onto the Garonne through Bordeaux where they had their mast taken down, then into the Canal du Midi.  They had pre-arranged to have the mast transported by road and have fixed tomorrow in Agde.   We were curious how they got on as their boat had a fin keel and we know canals can be quite shallow in places.  They said they had touched bottom several times but had managed to power through the soft mud.  It’s good to see the canal being used exactly as it was designed for when construction began in 1667: opened 15th May 1681; joining “two seas”.  We wished them good luck and headed on.

According to the canal guide, the main attraction for boaters in Agde is the 3-way lock, it’s use depends which route one is travelling. Our first port of call was for water and on the approach to Agde there is a sort of Marina with facilities so hooked up for water and had lunch.   As we sat down we were “disturbed” by someone calling us, he was the “guardian” of facility and charged us €5 for the privilege.  Chatting to him he warned us that if we went through the 3-way lock and on into the Camargue, we may get caught up with the winds, being so open and as Daisy is a gutless wonder, our decision was made, head back to Bezier.

We headed back, passing those two trees and following a very large holiday boat, zig-zagging it’s way along the canal slightly slower than us and eventually we arrived at our first lock.  In and out no problem but we had several more to do before we arrived at the “Port of Bezier”.

We arrived eventually, moored up, paid our dues and dined on board then headed up to the historic district, wow, what a steep climb.  Eventually, and after several stops along the way we arrived at the main square and I have to say it was worth the effort.    This beautiful square had effigies of all sorts of animals with water running through them and at the top end a fountain with numerous “spouts” sending water high into the air.   Naturally there was a statue of Pierre-Paul Riquet , who was responsible for the building of the Canal du Midi, who was born and lived here.

Wednesday 30th June

We woke up to another glorious morning, though still rather windy and for breakfast, it’s back to normal as we are both full from the gastronomic delight of last night.

Our target today is to get to Beziers, about 20-kms but there are two obstacles that could hold us up.   Firstly there is the single lane, 160-metre “Malpas tunnel”, this is then followed by a flight of locks dropping 20-meters, known as the “Fonserannes Staircase”.  The issue with the staircase is that there are set times to travel through them so arriving at the appropriate time could prove difficult, still we shall see.

Winding our way through several villages and numerous vineyards before we came across the Malpas Tunnel.   The “hype” in the book suggested it would be difficult to navigate being wide enough only for one boat, and sounding your horn was essential, but to us it looked  rather like a big bridge as we could see out the other end!!!  We were expecting a long tunnel similar to the ones in the English canal system.   We think had we blinked, we would have missed it!!!

Onwards and upwards heading towards Bezier passing similar scenery as we wound our way along the canal when suddenly we arrived at the top of the “Fonserannes Staircase“ .  Our canal guide book is very informative but along the canal itself there is very little to identify where one is.  Unlike the U.K. canals where every bridge has a number to identify your position, there is nothing and that’s why we were surprised we came across the locks so quickly!! 

We arrived too early so moored up for lunch until we could pass through.  The times going downstream, that’s us, are 1300hrs to 1530hrs and we were in pole position but alas, no, 2-big hotel boats took precedence and therefore we were in the 3rd flotilla, still we got through.   We have done many staircases on the English Canal system and they are hard work, well for one of us!!  but going through these was easy-peezy , there were two very nice lock-keepers on hand to press all the right buttons, all we had to do was loop a rope onto the bollards and hold on.  We went through the staircase in about 40-minutes without raising a sweat.

Our journey continued navigating through 5-more maned locks, through Portiragnes and was now was heading out towards the Camargue region, you never know, we might be lucky and see some of the famous ancient breed of the white horses, alternatively we could stumble on black bulls seen in this region🤞🤞🤞🤞

It was getting late now and this area doesn’t have many moorings, we have steel pegs of course for such eventualities but we weren’t too fussed having to knock them into the ground, instead we found 2-suitable trees to tie onto, and this is what we did “in the middle of nowhere” as the song goes.

We had had enough, out in the baking sun all day is tiring and dinner was calling.  Instead of the 20-kms we had originally planned to do, we travelled 35-kms, no wonder we were shattered.

After yesterday’s gastronomic feast, we were down to earth tonight, cold meat salad, followed by a game or two of Crib. (Hazel I lost every game accept one!😢😢😢😢😢Christine)

We have just read in the canal’s manual, “It Is Forbidden To Tie Up To A Tree” Oops 🤭🤭🤭🤭 that’s just what we’ve done, to late now😁😁😁