Oldies On Tour

Saturday 3rd January 2026

The pick-up time we were given yesterday was 0900-0915, but we woke up to a new pick-up time of 0930-0945, oh good no rush, only to get another notification; a new pick-up time  0845-0900, so had to get our skates on!!!   Today we are touring the Soweto area.

Fortunately we were sufficiently early enough to finish our breakfast and get to the lobby a few minutes before our guide arrived.   We were his first pick-up then went to two other hotels so we were a party of 5.   Our guide “Lebo” (also our driver),  talked as we headed to Soweto on the history and background and how Johannesburg came-about following the discovery of gold.  The drive was about 40-minutes but he stopped along the way to point things out.   At one stop he pointed out a redundant a mine-shaft lift winding and a couple of kms later a “huge” pile of spoil, all excavated from that mine.  He also explained how this spoil, much of it sand was still in place and not blown about or washed away; they had the forethought to grew grasses and other vegetation to bind it all together, and here it still stood.   Later he pointed out a couple more redundant mine-lift windings but here the there was no pile of spoil, that had been removed and converted into a “theme park”.    He also reminded us of Mahatma Gandhi (1869-1948) the Indian lawyer and anti-colonial nationalist who was also involved in South African politics and in gaining freedom.   What I hadn’t appreciated was what was happening before Apartheid, and the depth of colonialism, racial discrimination and Afrikaner attitudes that led to “The National Party” getting elected in 1948 and formalising segregation.   Gandhi left SA in 1914 once he’d achieved significant concessions for Indians living there.

We arrived in Soweto and naturally stopped for photo opportunity.   Soweto is a township in the municipality of Gauteng; now incorporated into the city of Johannesburg and borders the city’s mining belt in the south and first discovered by a George Harrison and George Walker in February 1886.  Within a decade of the discovery of gold in this region,100,000 people of all races and nationalities flocked here in search of riches.  As the area grew more and more, shacks and other shelters were erected everywhere until a number of Dutch settlers saw an opportunity and  discovered clay along a stream which was suitable for brick-making, and started to produce building bricks locally and homes “popped” up everywhere.

The “area” now “known” as Soweto was actually created in 1930’s when a white government started separating Blacks from Whites, to created “black townships”.  Blacks were moved away from Johannesburg, to an area separated from white suburbs by a so-called “cordon sanitaire” (or sanitary corridor) which were usually either: a river, a railway track, an industrial area or a highway. It was in 1949 when SOWETO actually got its name, an acronym of “South West Townships” and the first time the name was used was in  1963 and within a short period of time, following the 1976 uprising of students (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soweto_uprising) in the township, the name became known internationally as 176 students were killed and over 1,000 injured as the riots were violently suppressed. Reforms followed, but riots flared up again in 1985 and continued until the first non-racial elections were held in April 1994.      It was in 2010, that South Africa’s oldest township hosted the Football World Cup final, and the attention of more than a billion soccer spectators from all over the world, focused on Soweto.

Whilst in the area, we naturally visited the “Mandela” museum, the house he spent most of his life, (other than when he was locked up), and lived there with two of his three wives and brought up his children.  When we parked we were serenaded by a colourful local dance troop who naturally relied on tourists “tips”.     We walked across the road ro a brick built house that had a communal room and two bedrooms, a shower and small kitchen.   The roof was just corrugated iron so very hot in summer and b….y cold in winter.    Also, though we didn’t visit it, down the road was the home of Desmond Tutu, later to be Archbishop of Cape Town who won the Nobel peace prize in 1984; Nelson Mandela won his Nobel Peace prize 1993 and as it has been pointed out several times, South Africa is the only country to have two Nobel recipients living in the same street!!!

Once we left the Mandela Museum we headed to Hector Pieterson square, named after one of the students killed by the over zealous authorities during the students riot in 1976, there is also a museum but unfortunately being a public holiday, it was closed.

We now headed to the “poorest” area in SOWETO where there are dwellings made of everything from tin to wood to bricks, all crammed into a very tight area.  Here our guide introduced us to a local lady who conducts short tours, explaining how things work in her community.    It was rather interesting listening to her; we look around and see things through “western eyes”, but listening to her and their requirements, they had what they needed; a kindergarten for youngsters, buses laid on FOC by the state to take the older children to school, medical facilities within walking distance, running water and a community spirit, and they all seemed very happy: Who are we to judge??

It was time to head back, drop off the other three then us.   Back at the Peach and knackered but hungry we headed to the restaurant for a late lunch.   The food was great but the service was slow and the arrival of drinks seemed an eternity, still all very satisfying, we enjoyed it.   We now headed for another early night.

Tomorrow we fly back home🥵🥵 with mixed feelings, we’ve had a great adventure but there so much more to do here, so going home is a bit “bitter-sweet”; we’ll just have to come back😁😄

Friday 2nd January 2026

Amongst all the folk we met and partied with on Rovos Rail, we managed to arrange a day out with Michael and Gisela, a South African couple who live just outside Johannesburg.  They said they would collect us from our hotel at 0930 so after breakfast we headed to the lobby, but they beat us by a couple of minutes, still it was good to meet up again so soon after our train journey together.

The itinerary was first a visit to the “Cradle of Humankind”, then lunch followed by “wines on the terrace” at their home.

The “Cradle of humankind” (https://sahistory.org.za/article/cradle-humankind) is a UNESCO (1999) world heritage paleoanthropological site located about 50km northwest of Johannesburg in the Gauteng Province.   This site is home to the largest known concentration of human ancestral remains anywhere in the world. The site currently occupies c188 sq miles and contains a complex system of limestone caves, though we didn’t visit these. The registered name of the site in the list of World Heritage Sites is “Fossil Hominid Sites of South Africa”.  It was a fascinating and “mind-blowing” experience as they lay out in simple steps on the floor how many years humans have taken to evolve, but never mind that, how much earlier in time this planet has taken to get to a stage where “any” life can survive and flourish.!!!   There was one boat ride depicting the time when the planet exploded into life, with volcanoes, fires and water etc.   the other fascinating formation was their explanation of how the continents as we know them today, came about; the movement of the tectonic plates.    Though we only spent a couple of hours there, it was so interesting one could or should spend a couple of days there at least.

It was time to go and headed back to their home estate, but our drive back was slightly complicated due to a road closure.   Gisela was driving her new car whilst Michael sat in the back and navigated, however there was a “minor issue”, the diversion would have caused both unnecessary time and mileage, and that’s when Michael started navigating,   he told her to ignore the diversion sign and do what he said.   We did a left turn onto a small road and it was not only small, it was a dusty dirt track with “major” potholes, at which point she went into four wheel drive.   There were a few words between driver and navigator over the 10/15kms we did, but eventually found a tarmac road, so all was well.

They took us to the “Clubhouse” on their “estate” for an excellent meal and we were also joined by their two children and a friend.  The day so far had been “Purrfect” as Pop Larkin would say and it was a very hot day to-boot.

Next we headed to their house around the corner.   When I say “estate” it is nothing like the word “estate” conjures up in an Englishman’s mind, here one is logged in and out, or if not a resident, signs in at the gate house bristling with security technology.  There is a high brick wall all around with cameras and security patrols; everyone feels very safe here and the properties are in keeping with all this hi tech security.   The roads and pathways are immaculately maintained in keeping with everything else.   

For the rest of the afternoon we sat in their beautiful open plan room with big wide patio doors open, but in the shade as the sun was still strong and very hot, and we drink wine.  We chatted about most things but the Rovos Rail in particular as we all thoroughly enjoyed the expedience.   Michael and Gisela’s business is manufacturing numerous “skincare” products and they very kindly “loaded” us up with a selection of their samples and because Christine commented on how much she enjoyed a certain South African “sauce” product we had on the train, unbeknown to us they organised a couple of bottles to be waiting and gave them to us.   I have said in earlier posts, we are “so impressed” with the friendliness and generosity of the South African people; a “must visit; country and we “will” be back.

As time marched on and our hotel was about an hour away, we reluctantly said our good byes and ordered an “Uber”: unfortunately they are not allowed in the estate so Gisela very kindly drove us to the car park outside the gate where we met our driver.

Our driver, a chap called Aubrey got us back to the Peach just before it got dark, a wise precaution we were told!!!   Back in our room and still full from lunch lounged around before heading to bed.   Tomorrow we have our Soweto trip, our last trip to look forward to🥵🥵

Tuesday 1st January 2026

We have to be up fairly early as all luggage is being collected at 0930hrs so have to pack everything before heading to breakfast, some with clear heads and some , maybe not.   Last night we had “enjoyed” a local drink known as a “Spring-Bok,” but last night’s version was a Spring-Bok with “Horns”, somewhat different!!!!

Back in our cabin after breakfast to finalise the packing and waited, firstly for the cabin attendant to remove our luggage, and then for the train to arrive in the private station of Rovos Rail in Pretoria.   Last night the Train Manager informed us Mr. Rohan Vos, the owner of the business was heading up from Cape Town to welcome everybody personally and to give a guided tour of his facilities.

1000hrs the train was scheduled to arrive but finally pulled in at 1020; apparently this was good, due to the poor railway infrastructure provided by the government owned railway lines, anything could be possible!!!   

We all disembarked and as informed, Mr Vos greeted everybody personally before we got into the elegant waiting room and given a fresh towel and a drink.   Those of us doing the tour were also issued with hi-vis vests and a hearing set to plug into your ear to hear Mr. Vos.

The tour got underway soon after; Rohan Vos is the visionary founder and owner of Rovos Rail, renowned for creating one of Africa’s most luxurious train experiences.   It all started with him restoring vintage carriages as a personal hobby in 1988.   He has a background in motor spares and property, and Vos had 3/4 restored carriages that he used for personal use but found it rather expensive. To help with the expense, he started selling a service and hence a family-owned business known for its meticulous attention to detail was formed, and offered opulent journeys across Southern Africa thus establishing Rovos Rail as a world-class luxury hotel on rails; bringing back opulence, good food, and excellent service from a bygone era.  This accounts for the first words spoken by our train manager back at Victoria falls, “no WiFi”!!!

He explained his financial issues and the awkwardness of dealing with the government railway company in SA.     He also encountered problems trying to run his train on railway lines in Zimbabwe, and how all this brought him to his knees.   He sold his spare parts business’ as well as his properties to fund this venture, but still the banks were starting to pull the rug out from him until a chance encounter.  He met an Englishman, someone in the travel agency business from England.  Apparently this “Englishman” said he could sell his tours, and did so, thus saving Rohan Vos’ business, and from that moment on he flourished, but then came COVID.  The two years lockdown in SA set him right back to square one as he generously kept them on full pay.   But here he is again, a very determined man who persevered and got through possible ruin for the second time.

Our driver was waiting for us then whisked us off feeling very grand in the back of a big black Mercedes 500 class with tinted windows all round; wet wipes, water, and assorted creams and potions available!!  Now back at the peach hotel in Melrose an hour later, a suburb of Johannesburg where we were greeted as long lost friends.   I must say how extraordinary friendly the South Africans have been to us everywhere we’ve visited.

Today is hot so showered and took “nap” before being collected by Janet Doddrell* our fantastic tour advisor and organiser.   We have been so pleased with “Personal Africa” as a tour operator, but more importantly the person we dealt with throughout, “Janet”, so we’ve arranged to take her out to dinner as a thank you.

At the appointed hour Janet arrived and she took us to the “The Grill House”, here in Melrose, not her first choice because most restaurants were closed, we found that strange being a holiday???  Anyway the Grill House did us proud, we thoroughly enjoyed our meal and had a jolly good chat.   It was so very nice to put a face to a voice on the ‘phone.

Back at the Peach it was straight to bed as we are meeting a couple from the train tomorrow, and they are early risers!

* We tried to organise this trip through a U.K. travel agents but the results were pretty hopeless and extremely expensive so emailed my friend Margaret, (mentioned several times in earlier posts) for assistance and she recommended a South African company “Personal Africa” and her contact “Janet Doddrell”; what a result, perfect itinerary and a lovely lady, we have no hesitation in Recommending Personal Africa and “Janet Doddrell” in particular to anyone who is planning a trip here.