OldiesonTour

Wednesday 24th December 2025Our driver was booked for 0900hrs so not too much of a rush today, so after packing for a flight; weight is critical for these local flights, we headed out.

Johannesburg international airport, as expected was big and bustling but we managed with a “little guile” to get booked in fairly quickly; we jumped the queue by mistake!!!   We then queued for security, a slow and laborious process, not helped by the guy in front trying to get 2-18 volt battery-packs through as hand luggage.   Our turn next, Christine flew through, I on the other hand having emptied my pockets, removed my belt off and taken my shoes off still set the alarm off.  For the first time ever it was my replacement knee, so that was ok; well until my bag came through: they stripped it then let me go, apparently they didn’t like my nail clippers!!!!   Obviously Johannesburg International has higher security thresholds than Heathrow and many others😡

We had left plenty of time and even though it was slow to get through passport control, it still left us with an hour or so to kill, so just “hung-around” the gate; decided not to hit the lounges as we had both overdone the “intake”!!!!

The flight was on time and we landed at Kasane, a small airport and as far as I could see, the only aeroplane here.   After the usual administrative processing, we headed out to be met by our guide who took us to our destination; the “Bakwena Lodge” where we are staying for two nights.

After being met by the very friendly “natives” and checking in, we headed for their “high tea”; not quite the standard of the high tea at the Oyster Box!!!, and here we met “Dan” our ranger for the duration of our stay.   Thirty minutes later we clambered onto our Safari vehicle and headed out.   There was another two  in our party, a Father and his grown-up Son, both from the USA.

On our last Safari at Shamwari. where we saw numerous animals as soon as we left the lodge, to day was different.   Firstly there was a 20-minute drive to get to the “Game Reserve” and after an hour or so looking and finding nothing and questioning why we were here, it all happened.   Down in the floodplain of the Chobe river we came across a herd of elephants, all sizes wallowing in the backwaters of the river, having a “smashing time”, splashing around and rolling about in the water.   Once this “ritual” was over they moved to a large, dry hole in the ground and rolled in the mud; apparently all this is about keeping bugs at bay and protecting themselves against the sun; a sort of “factor 50 sunblock”!!!   We stayed here for a considerable time enjoying the spectacle; a magic moment.  This being a state reserve, the gates closed at 1900hrs sharp so we headed out passing all sorts of antelope and birds, but we were happy😄😄😎😎🤠🤠

Back home it was time for dinner; a candlelight affair amongst the trees and in an authentic “lodge” with atmosphere, but not due to the guests here tonight, just the surroundings.

We were in bed around 2100hrs and soon asleep as it’s a 0500hrs wake-up call tomorrow

Monday 22nd December 2025

Up and away today, our time at Fugitive Drift has ended.  Last night the place was full so we got to meet more people over drinks and the meal.   It’s always a shame when a place like this is nearly empty, it loses some of its atmosphere.

The big “cloud” hanging over all us leavers today is the state of the unmade roads, the are everywhere around here.   It’s been raining constantly since last evening and we’ve already been warned that heavy rains wash away many parts of the roads.   At reception and after settling everything the Manager advised us on what route to take; local knowledge and all that, but it still meant covering about 21kms, once outside the main gate, fortunately it wasn’t raining when we left.

Car loaded and away we went, the drive to the main gate, circa 4kms was ok but once out onto the “public” dirt tracks, the fun began.  Christine had put our destination into WAZE out of interest and at the first junction, WAZE agreed with the local knowledge.   It was rather odd driving, well crawling, to see locals scattered around nearly all sporting umbrellas!!  At the second junction we came to,  WAZE said one thing and local knowledge said another, hmmmm which way?; we’ve always been told to trust your Instruments.   After a little thought went with local knowledge.   It wasn’t too long when we had two 4×4’s up our stern, but passing was a different matter.  Though the road was wide enough, the actual “driveline”, zig zagging around potholes, made it difficult.  At one stage we had to cross one of many bridges, but the road that butted up to the edge, needed a bridge itself to cover the gap; no problem for 4×4, a little difficult for a normal Toyota, still with a “determination” she overcame this but then drove over the bridge with water cascading  “right across” the bridge; this was when I wish I had a diesel car!!   Eventually the two 4×4’s overtook us and just drove away from us.   Another major obstacle was a hump in the road, probably a large underground pipe exposed, as we went over we sort of balanced on the top, it was the momentum that got us over!!!!!  1-hour later we hit tarmac at an average speed of 15mph; our white car now brown!!

The rest of the journey was ok, reasonable roads, not too much traffic and spasmodic rain and then we hit the motorway  a toll road so could really wind the car up.  From leaving the reserve until we hit the motorway about four and a half hours later, nowhere to stop for a drink, and the mileage between towns is vast.  The services had two or three buy-n-go counters and one restaurant, a “Wimpy”, a name from the past I must add, still it had choices other than burgers!!!

We arrived at the Peach Boutique hotel around 1500hrs and crashed out.   The drive, especially the muddy, washed away roads was stressful, not to mention  driving the wrong type of vehicle, then miles and miles of straight roads; yes glad to park the car.

For the first time, we managed to get a tv channel that wasn’t South African; Netflix and started watching “The Crown”; but not for long!!!!!

Tuesday 23rd December 2025

The Peach Hotel

No rush this morning other than the hire company are collecting the car at 0900hrs, so planned our visit to the restaurant for breakfast to coincide with that.

The room was comfortable and fortunately it was on the ground floor.  There are a serries of buildings set in beautifully manicured gardens with two rooms, one up and one down; no lift, just steep steps.   When we saw that on arrival we “hotfooted” it back to reception and asked if we could change to a downstairs room, fortunately they had one, phew.   Last night as we strolled into the hotel for a snack we detoured around the two pools to have a “gander”, I must say one was small and the other even smaller but attractively set up with sun loungers etc, but the colour of the water was dark green, not impressed.  But the good news, as we strolled to breakfast they were on the job cleaning both pools; it could have been all the rain that caused this to happen.

With the car collected our mind turned to today and what to do.  Next minute I get a call from reception to say the hire person wanted to see me, oh dear what’s wrong I wondered and she told me I had damaged the car and I need to see it.   I hadn’t damaged the car, i knew I hadn’t hit anything or been hit so how come???  Well no damage is visible unless you get right down, sort of hands and knees or you wipe your hand on the underside of the near side front skirt below the bumper; yes it was rough!!!!!  That could only have one of two explanations; it was like that when I collected the car though my visual inspection didn’t pick it up as it was far too low or, a rock from the muddy dirt tracks did it; there were so many noises being heard on those roads, anything could have happened below!!!!   Note to self, look under the car next time!!!   Anyway I was fully insured for waiver damage.

After breakfast we headed back to our room inspecting the pools along the way and pleased to see the water was now clear and apart from being a little on the chilly side, looked inviting, but not now, we’re heading to town.

We booked our Uber which arrived at the gate just when they said they would and headed to the “hop+on, hop-off” big-bus office in a large shopping centre called the Zone at Rosebank.  We are back at the Peach after our excursions around Victoria Falls for a few days and this may be one way to see the area.

We wandered around the two mall areas and admired 4-chaps who were human statues and they only moved when money was tossed into their bowl; I have to say they were impressive.   The sun was shining and we enjoyed pots of tea sitting outside watching the world go by.

Back in an Uber, and back to our hotel after an enjoyable time  and walked past the pool but no one in it, but still the water was clear.

We skipped food tonight and watched more of the crown before bed; early start tomorrow for our flight north.

Saturday 20th & Sunday 21st December 2025

Fascinated by history, when arranging this holiday, this visit was high on my bucket list but to be here we had to stay at one of the lodges in the middle of nowhere, and The Fugitive Drift was chosen by our tour organiser. As mentioned this is a very friendly establishment and staff catering for your every need and conduct the tours.   

Last night we were given our instructions for our first morning, breakfast at 0650hrs and the guide tour leaves “promptly” at 0730hrs, naturally we “conformed”!!!!   Breakfast was served on the deck amongst the trees and was freshly cooked and as everywhere else there was plenty of fresh fruit to be had.

As instructed, we were “on parade” at the appointed time, met our guide “Peewee” (not sure if this is the correct spelling!), and off we went.   The drive to our destination the “Isandlwana” battlefield took the best part of 3/4 of an hour due to us having to drive most of the distance at about 5-kph due to the roads already mentioned, though some of today’s were even worse!!!   What I find strange, here is an area where tourists frequent but the roads are really, really bad.  Forget about the potholes, sort the ditches out!!!  En-route we heard a CD with the narrator describing the politics of that era, the Zulus expansion that got them to Zululand and the attitude of the British and the Boer connections. The unfortunate thing, listening was difficult as the vehicle we were in was fighting the bump and and other obstacles causing it to to protest very loudly, however I found this link which helped fill the missing gaps (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Zulu_War), naturally it was about expansion, but in this case, both sides had aspirations and after an ultimatum given by the British, part of which was the Zulus had to “diss-arm”, which they didn’t, the Anglo-Zulu war broke out on the 11th January 1879.

Lord Chelmsford (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederic_Thesiger,_2nd_Baron_Chelmsford) led columns of British Red Coats, a contingent from Natal and others totalling 16,500 across the Buffalo river at Rorke’s Drift into Zululand, and set up camp under the mountain known as “Isandlwana”.   The actual position was good, they were on the top of a gentle rolling hill with both flanks semi protected by mountains.  However, Chelmsford receives information as to where the main body of the Zulu army was and sets off leaving 1800 soldiers to guard the camp.   What nobody appreciated was the speed and agility theses Zulus move at and by the time Chelmsford arrives they had gone and yes, they attacked the 1800 men left at Isandlwana, the rest is history; the worst defeat in the history of the British Army, one survivor!!  

History has painted Chelmsford as the scapegoat, but having spent the time here I think that was mistaken.  Chelmsford carried out all the right protocols but the person left in command of the Isandlwana, a Colonel Pulleine, with Colonel Durnford deployed his troops in a thin red line 300 yards ahead of the ammunition wagon and spread out thinly.   Firstly he had no lookouts to warn him and had no idea of the Zulu strength, basic requirements of a commending officer.  Apparently there were 500,000 cartridges in the wagons, and a box full of cartridges weighted 100lbs, imagine trying to replenish the red coats some 300 yards away facing up to 20,000-Zulu warriors charging at full pelt  towards you.   Those brave soldiers had no chance so stood their ground and the inevitable happened at the battle of Isandlwana (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Isandlwana). One issue for the column was their colours, and one of the remaining officers instructed a soldier to save the colours of the 24th regiment and head off.  Unfortunately he didn’t make it, he was caught crossing the river and as he fell into the river, apparently running very fast, took the colours away.   Some weeks later someone found them and they can now be seen in Brecon Cathedral; the 24th is a Welsh regiment and many of their soldiers came from around that area.

The only reminder of the battle that took place here is a monument, and lots of piles of white stones.  It was about four months before the re-maned 24th regiment could return to clear up all that was left of the 1800 corpses, that being bones in what uniforms were still left.   The white piles of stones stand as monuments to the men buried beneath them.

Our guide took us up one of the mountains where we could get an appreciation of the battlefield’s topography and he explained everything in detail. To add to “his” authenticity as a guide of this battlefield, his great, great, great grandfather and his great, great ,great uncle were part of the Zulu army at that time so no doubt the stories were handed down to each generation.

Whilst all this was happening, Chelmsford recognised he’d been “hoodwinked” by the Zulu army but had no idea what was going on so didn’t rush back; at this point he was about 12-miles away with a range of mountains between him and the battlefield.

Once the Zulu had despatched the 1800-force of the British Army, they headed to the Buffalo river crossing at “Rorke’s Drift” to cut off Chelmsford column, but a small contingent of around 4,000 disobeyed their King’s orders “not” to cross into Natal; the river was the border.   The issue was this regiment consisted of young Zulu warriors and before they could get married they had to wash their “Ikiwa”, (their stabbing spear) in blood on the battlefield and this particular regiment hadn’t had that chance at Isandlwana, as they were one of the “Buffalo” formation “attack” horns used to outflank their enemy.   Fortunately for the contingent at Rorke’s Drift, the one surveyor from Isandlwana told them what happened as headed back to safety; couldn’t blame him, but not very loyal!!!

The garrison of just over 150 men, which includes the sick had a hour or so to sort their defence out, so improvised barriers made from readily available supplies at the mission station to defend against the approaching Zulu force of around 4,000. The primary materials used were mealies (bags of grain) and biscuit boxes used to join the two main buildings with a four ft “wall”. The onslaught started late afternoon and went deep into the night; unbelievable courage against wave after wave of Zulu warriors.   By early morning the Zulus stopped and either acknowledged they were beaten or more probably they caught sight of Chelmsford approaching with his column back to Rork’s drift.   According to several eye witnesses at the time, the reminder of the Zulus heading back into Zululand passed Chelmsford coloumn so close they could touch but both armies had had enough.  The battle of Rork’s Drift (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Rorke%27s_Drift) should have had a different result but life is so precious they gave their all as surrendering to the Zulu’ meant immediately being executed.

The small museum was fascinating and had a number of artefacts from that fateful day in January 1879 and a cemetery with the remains of the solders and their names on a memorial.

Christine joined me for the tour of the Isandlwana battlefield but had had enough so didn’t join me on the  Rork’s Drift tour, a pity as our guide, a South African that had spent 12-years in the British army and done several tours to conflict zones including Afghanistan, Iraq and Northern Ireland and could  empathise with what these soldiers were going through.   This feeling came out in his dialogue and Brad and I both felt quite emotional at these events; the level of detail he went to was quite extraordinary; best historical tour so far.

Whilst I was enjoying myself, Christine lounged about the pool and did some laundry; as she said, “a woman’s work is never done”!!!!!

All my pre-conceived ideas about the Anglo-Zulu wars have been completely shaken up and I’m glad I now have the correct information; I just hope I don’t forget it all!!!

I was very satisfied and glad we made the detour though poor Christine had to suffer it; still I visited the Botanical Gardens with her in Cape Town!!!

From the excellent library terrace here at Fugitive Drift you can see down to the Buffalo river and just make out the drift. I was flummoxed about the word “drift” but soon realised it was South African for “ford”, a shallow crossing of a river.  The walkways around the property are long decks, but the handrails are not safe to hold onto; “health and safety, what health and safety”??  At the back of the pool there is a pretty “sheer drop” to the river, no railings!!!!  What the hell, quite happy to get back to how things used to be in UK.

The food here is nice, and certainly more conventional than the food we had in Shamwari but naturally the ambience is not in their league, but we enjoyed. our time here.   During the afternoon of Sunday we even had a monkey turn up on our verandah, but as we moved he shot off.

Our next stop in Johannesburg, a six hour drive, just hope it’s not on all unmade roads.

Friday 19 December 2025

After a jolly good “long” night’s sleep we were ready to head to Fugitive Drift, a 4.5 hours drive away, but first breakfast and retrieve the cat from the garage.

Once we checked out we stepped into the carpark lift and once out headed to the car, but oh dear, no car!!!   We were right by the entrance where we drove in so scratched our heads.  Perhaps they moved it to the carpark on the other level so walked there and walked all around, no car!!!   This is silly, let’s go back down and re-check, but no, not there.  By now panic was beginning to set in so methodically went to every parking space to check, definitely no car!!!   By chance there were a couple of workman who informed us there was another entrance going to a different floor!!!   So up, or down, not sure which, we found this mystery floor and sure enough there was the car, just where we left it and low and behold, a different entrance which was concealed when we arrived!!!   Panic over and we headed off.

We had instructions how to get to Fugitive Drift but they started at Durban airport and didn’t fancy going back so followed WAZE.   Waze is very good if you can see the screen as well as listen to her but we don’t have a cradle for it so it sits on Christine’s lap making things awkward at times causing us to take a wrong turning and we did, right in the middle of major roadworks, compounded by heavy traffic caused by an accident!!!    Good old WAZE, it sorted us out.

For the first hour or so it was wide roads, reasonably straight and minimal traffic, for the next couple of hours we were off the N roads and onto an R roads, here it was one carriageway in each direction necessitating overtakes, and there lays the problem.   Quite a lot of traffic crawls along and much of the traffic is impatient and just wants to get going.   Solid double white lines don’t seem to mean anything out here in the bush and if that isn’t enough, there are potholes everywhere, not to mention the cows, goats, pigs and a couple of sheep roaming about the road.   It was like driving a “dodgem car” with so much being thrown at you!!!

Next the “cherry on the top” road, the “P” road, well we had over an hour on this un-made road, and the pot holes just got enormous and in places the rains had washed the roads away and we driving over ditches and exposed rocks, proper “4×4 territory”, our poor Toyota struggled, bottoming regularly and drive wheels spinning occasionally.   At time we got up to the heady speed of 40-kph but many 4-kph.  (Note to self, must drive a 4×4 next time).  We drove through several very busy and bustling townships but decided not to stop as we were the only white people!!!

Eventually we arrived, in the middle of nowhere (of course) to a scruffy gate with a solitary security guard and his security hut, plus a good old fashioned clip board.   He checked us against his list, gave us a letter from the office and asked us to write our details on his clipboard!!!

The letter was welcome news as It informed us we’d been upgraded to the lodge from the guesthouse, very nice.

Arriving at the complex we were surrounded by staff welcoming us, taking our bags and giving us a rundown of everything then showed us to our lodge.   This is quite different from Shamwari, this is set amongst a lot of trees, quite tropical in fact but our lodge has a splendid view from the big patio door window.

Once established we headed for afternoon tea but we were alone, no one else came!!!   Anyway everybody gathers around the “camp-fire” for social drinks and sundown; let’s hope we met other guests then🤞🤞

The main reason for coming here was for the battlefield-tours, more on that in next post.  This is also a small game reserve so may see more Giraffes etc., but none of the big five!!

The drinks around the camp fire never actually materialised, Fugitive Drift only had four lodges in use so the 8-of us stayed by the bar before heading to the communal dining table.   There was a Canadian couple, an English couple from Norfolk, a father and son from Johannesburg and us, plus the lodge’s hostess for the evening.   Unfortunately being one long table, socialising wasn’t very good and we spent much of the time chatting with the Father and his 8-year old so son.  He described it as a Father and Son “away weekend” as both were very interested in history and walking battlefields in particular.  We will get to know them better tomorrow as only the four of us are doing the tour