OldiesonTour

Tuesday 30th December 2025

Woke up after a pleasant night without rocking and rolling.  Along with everybody else it was nice to sleep on a stationary train!!   We stepped off the train at Bulawayo Station to board our coach for a another Safari but with a Cave Paintings and a trip to visit the grave of Cecil Rhodes.    Around the station there were signs of their colonial past but oh dear, everything bar the station has fallen into “rack-n-ruin”, the station was quite a magnificent building; obviously built to last!!!

We drove out of town dodging even more pot-holes and about 30-minutes later arrived at the National park, it is situated in Southwest Zimbabwe and covers about 424-square Kms.  This park extends along several river valleys and is one of the three intensive rhino “protection zones*”, both white and black, naturally there are the usual antelopes and impalas amongst others and it also has over 200-species of tree, wild herbs and 100+ grasses.  This park also contains the world’s densest population of the leopards due to the abundance of hyrax, which make up 50% of their diet.   One “could” also find Hyenas, hippos, giraffe, ostriches  and many more but not today, Today we were told we’d see white rhino, and we “did” but only saw three white rhino😩

The cave paintings have been dated about 100,000 years old and took a bit of looking at before they registered, mind you they have had to weather many years!!!   They were painted by the “bushmen” of that time whose whole civilisation was fascinating, (http://www.rovos.com/blog/matobo-national-park-lasting-relics-of-an-incredible-people/); this area provided everything they needed to survive, an abundance of of everything demonstrated by our guide.   He stopped, picked some particular plant and told us this “acted” as soap, then proceeded to demonstrate, and it did: he also showed us a bush that works as a tooth brush!!!

The other main attraction here is the burial site of Cecil Rhodes, the only issue was the walk up the the mountain, at Matopos. (https://sahistory.org.za/dated-event/cecil-john-rhodes-buried-matopos)   The guide who gave us a talk on Cecil Rhodes and depicted him as a generous individual, a pacifist and wanted to keep the peace at virtually any cost though he was also a colonialist and thought the world should be the British Empire!!   The grave of Cecil Rhodes, founder of former British colony Rhodesia, is carved into the summit of Malindidzimu. Also known as World’s View, this is the place where Rhodes was buried, together with two of his friends and colleagues; Sir Charles Patrick Coghlan and Sir Leander Starr Jameson. On the same site, a stone monument has been erected erected to honour 35 British soldiers killed in a battle with the Matebele army. who were the thrown into the Shangani River. There is a small gallery which also provides a chronology of Rhodes’ life, and his exploits as a business man, explorer and politician.   These days he has a bad press, they ripped down is statute in Cape Town, they de-faced his memorial, and as he spent time at Oriel College, Oxford and the students there wanted his bust removed as well.   This was the richest man in the world at the time, he had no dependants and all his money went into an educational trust that still pays for young people today to go to colleges and universities: the same people who accept his generosity over 100-years later but want to apply today’s morals, standards and way of life it historical events!!   Anyway, the effort of climbing up to the top of this mountain was well rewarded, magnificent views of the Matobo hills

Back to the safari jeeps we headed back to base passing magnificent sights of huge boulders balancing on rock formations, many looked as if they had been lifted into place but no, it’s all many centuries of erosion and the rock formation; quite extraordinary.

Back to the coach and back for lunch, an hour later than planned!!!

The afternoon went rather quickly as the train continuously headed to South Africa whilst most of the guests took a siesta.

Back in the restaurant car for “another” four-course meal together with wine pairing.   Today was also Etienne’s (the South African who lives in Romsey) birthday and the train staff produced a cake and naturally serenaded him, this all added to the atmosphere and another excuse for a party!!!  Tonight we decided not to head to the observation car for the party with these “mad” South Africans, and we knew tomorrow night would be a late ‘un, so we headed for an early night !!!

  

Monday 29th December 2025

There must have been a breakdown in communication as last night we made it clear we wouldn’t be joining the Safari party and would have a lie in.   The train manager told us to come to breakfast at 0900hrs and breakfast would be available.   We did arrive early, 0845hrs to be met by someone who informed us breakfast had ended three and a half hours ago!!!  We told him about the arrangement discussed to which he sort of shuffled about a said he would see what he could “rustle up”, we didn’t want to disrupt what was clearly the kitchen’s staff time to themselves and asked for tea/coffee and if possible toast.   A few minutes later this all arrived but so did a very smart, “fully-dressed” waiter and took over and tried to persuade us to have some eggs at least; we think being early. “ left-footed” them, this waiter had obviously been informed of the arrangements and had to be here for 0900hrs, which of course he was!!!    

Walking to the breakfast car and back to the Lounge was like walking a ghost train, there was nobody about, spooky, “everybody” had gone on the safari.  So after a little time on our own in the lounge we headed back to our cabin.   

Last night we had slept in the big super double bed that stretched from wall to wall but with no provision or shelf to place for my breathing machine, we had to turn about and have our pillows the other end.  We then placed two chairs to stop losing them and also I could put my machine on the chair as well.   This morning we left a note for Bronwyn asking her to remove the centre board so we had two single beds.   When we arrived back in our cabin, the deed had been completed, much better, thank you Bronwyn.

Lunch is set for 12-noon so headed out on the “long trek” to the observation car stopping along the way to chat to a couple who had been on the Safari; they were very  disappointed, 4-hours driving around and saw “nothing”, good decision made by us last night!!!   We arrived at the bar in the observation car, ordered a couple of drinks, and headed to the outside where we could hear first, then see the South Africans we met up with last night.   “Come on and join us” they said and shuffled up to find us two seats then went straight into a well rehearsed talk about everything they’d seen on Safari.  At this point we mentioned we had already heard from other passengers about this morning’s adventure, rather deflated they changed the subject, still we had a good laugh before the lunchtime “gong” went.

Christine arrived in the dining car first but soon followed by the South Africans and was immediately asked if we would like to make up a table of four.  Etienne and Lynette, the couple who live in Romsey who were great company and a two- hour lunch flew. Also in their party was Ray (his brother) and Sally his wife.   We then all headed back to our cabins for a siesta before heading back for another four course meal layer.

Tonight we headed back to the observation car for our usual apéritif, and as usual it was filled with of South Africans all partying, so naturally joined in, until the gong went.   

We arrived at the restaurant car and this time joined another South African couple, Michael and Gisela for anther enjoyable couple of hours of banter.    After dinner the “ladies” made their excuses and left Michael and I to enjoy a few Expresso Martinis!!!   Bed eventually called, and we headed into opposite directions.   The good news is the train is stationary and we are in in Bulawayo  for the night.

Sunday 28th December 2025

We have to be out of our room for 1100hrs so no rush.   We’ve enjoyed our time at Ilala Lodge (https://www.ilalalodge.com/) and would recommend this place to anybody who is visiting the Victoria Falls, it’s the nearest hotel and walking to them is easy; coming-back though calls for a cab and they’re readily available outside the park.

With our luggage stored in the hotel locker we jumped into a cab and headed out to the “Lookout Cafe”: (https://wildhorizons.co.za/experiences/the-lookout-cafe/) a “must-see” place recommended to us by both Janet and Margaret.   It was suggested we booked but took a chance, we were lucky there was a table fo two on the outer edge and though booked we had time to sit there and enjoy refreshments with a marvellous view until the people arrived; perhaps we should have booked!!!   Here there were zip-wires across the gorge and a bungee jumper, but we didn’t see any brave person have ago on the zip wire, though we did see some intrepid canoeists down in the fast running waters at the bottom of the gorge.  Well worth a visit.

Our next stop, again recommended by Janet and Margaret was the Victoria Falls Hotel, (https://www.victoriafallshotel.com/about/history) a magnificent looking building built in 1904, originally built to house all the railway workers employed on Rhodes’ “The Cape to Cairo railway” and  the building of the Zambezi River Bridge, (https://www.siyabona.com/victoria-falls-bridge.html) the spot carefully selected by Cecil Rhodes was so passengers could get a good view of the falls and get the spray to cool them off at the same time!!,   Again we sat and enjoyed more refreshments, but this time I had a glass of bubbly whilst Christine enjoyed a avocado and chicken Bruschetta, 5* service by staff waiting at every corner all in colonial style uniforms; a super finally to our Victoria Falls Experience in Zimbabwe: formally Rhodesia.

Originally the hotel said we would walk over to the station, literally just over the road, accompanied by one of their chaps taking the luggage.   Walking back from the Victoria Falls Hotel we popped into the station to get the “low-down”, but it was completely dead though we did speak to someone who told us the train reverses back onto the station around 3.45 to 4.00 for boarding; not wishing to spend a hour or so on an empty platform, elected to sit in the cool of our hotel.   After some time we asked the receptionist what time their chap was going to “walk” us over the road only for him to look “blank” but soon “got-a-grip” of the situation and contacted their activities office.   Upon his return he assured us all was under control and a car was coming to pick us up and take us to the Rovos train departure point and “their” chap was coming with us to move our luggage; that’s better, Janet would never have left it to chance!!!  The car took us straight back to the Victoria Falls Hotel where there was a lectern and a red carpet to welcome us and to check us in; that’s more like it!!!   We were then escorted to a reception room, nearly full by now of the passengers all enjoying “canapés and bubbly”oh dear we should have come earlier!!!

Once everybody had arrived the train manager gave us the lowdown on how things worked and stressed there is “no” WiFi aboard, then called our names in small groups where we were escorted to the train by our group’s concierge; ours was a nice young lady called “Bronwyn”. As we boarded we passed a local dance group wishing us “happy travels”.

Our “suite” is of a good size including a shower room; far bigger and more spacious that the train journeys we took in the USA!!!   Once unpacked and sufficient space to store our cases it was time to get “dressed” for dinner; we were reminded during the brief, “Jackets, collar and tie” for the men so having carried my suit etc around for four weeks, it now came out of the case!!

The length of this train, with two locos to pull it at breathtaking speed of 30kph (18mph)!!!, is “500-meters”, and we are in the first passenger coach, there are two dining cars in the middle and the observation car at the rear with an actual “bar”, so this is where we ended up for an aperitif; a round trip of 1km😩.  We did pass two lounge cars but didn’t realise there was bar services available there.

The dinner “gong” went sharp at 1930hrs so we all “scurried” to the restaurant cars and found a seat.   Tonight we had a four course meal paired with four South African wines, all very enjoyable.  When we checked in at the beginning we were asked if we had any dietary requirements to which Christine mentioned she didn’t like nuts, but stressed this was not an allergy, she doesn’t like them.  When we were settling in our compartment, there was a knock on the door and there were 5-people who asked to step inside.  There was the head chef, a couple of other chefs and two kitchen assistants all wanting to “clarify” the “nut” situation; as they were leaving I “through” out in passing that I wasn’t very keen on avocados, but it didn’t appear to register, they were too concerned about nuts!!!!

In the dining room our waiter brought the first course and said “Mrs Page, no nuts, correct?”; then turned to me and confirmed no avocado; how on earth did they know that, especially as none of the tables were allocated, we could have been sitting anywhere!?!?!?

The meal was superb, not too much, just the right amount and paired with the different wines, faultless.   Before we left the dining cars the train manager briefed us about tomorrow’s safari and the 0500hrs knock on the door.   We’ve had marvellous safaris and great experiences up to now, and also a little tired of 0500 wake-up calls, so made the decision to skip this one.   By now we were the only two left in our dining car but coming from the other car was laughter and the sound of partying so up’t and headed in there.   As we approached I made a remark and were immediately asked to join them for a night cap, and we did.   They were a jolly, raucous lot of South Africans, but two lived in Romsey, Hampshire.  We were all gently asked to move into the next car, a lounge as they needed to prep the dining car for breakfast, naturally we did and ordered more drinks.   Soon after midnight we all said our good byes and headed off to bed .

Saturday 27th December 202

Fortunately we woke up to a dry, not very cloudy sunny day after a rather long night’s sleep and feeling refreshed headed to breakfast, in “another” hotel!!!  The anticipation of the quality of  breakfast each time we move to another hotel is quite exciting!!!!

Ok, water bottles full and we headed off to visit the Victoria Falls, known in the local “Lozi language” as “The Smoke That Thunders”.  This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.   The track from the hotel, about 1-km down to the fall’s entrance was a wide path but though it was only 1030hrs, it was getting hot.   As we approached the entrance we were bombarded by vendors selling all sorts of carvings, trinkets and many other things!!!

To enter there is a fee of $50 per person if you are from the UK, less for Americans if they show their passports and I suspect much cheaper for the local population.   This country apparently went bankrupt several years ago and now everything is in US $, hence the discount for them!!!

We paid, entered and followed the trail and soon came across the first vantage point and marvelled but knew there was more to come as this trail ended, It turns out 1 & 2 are on the eastern end so turned round to head west where and now followed the mai trail, lookout point after lookout point, heading west along the face of the falls; seventeen lookout points in Zimbabwe and we stood at each one and enjoyed the spray coming off; it was so, so hot, not a cloud in the sky.  We stopped at Dr. David Livingstone (1813 – 1873) statute erected in 1955 to commemorate the discovery of the falls by him on the 16th November 1855, quite an imposing statute but most probably reflects all his missionary work, anti slave attitude and many other good deeds.

Victoria Falls is classified as the largest, based on its combined width of 1,708 metres (5,604 ft) and height of 108 metres (354 ft), resulting in the world’s largest sheet of falling water.  At the western end is the famous “Victoria falls Bridge”, built in 1905.  The Victoria Falls Bridge is a historic steel arch bridge over the Zambezi River, connecting Zimbabwe and Zambia just below the falls, famous for its spectacular views and bungee jumping. it was part of Cecil Rhodes’ vision for the Cape-to-Cairo railway and a marvel of “early” 20th-century engineering. This steel bridge was manufactured in England, then shipped out and constructed across the river.   Unfortunately Cecil Rhodes didn’t live long enough to see it completed.   It was originally designed for “the” railway but today it is for cars and pedestrians.

Today we walked about three and a half miles in total but did get a cab up the hill back to our hotel, we were exhausted and very, very hot but fortunately there is the Rain Forest Cafe just by the exit gate, and it was doing a roaring trade!  Here we enjoyed some refreshment before getting into our cab.

Back at the hotel, the pool called, so a quick visit to get “togged” up and straight into the refreshing water; brought back memories of our pools when we lived back in Spain.

Being our last night here in this superb hotel we decided to eat-in, so after our pool and sunbathing session, we showered and put our “glad-rags” on and enjoyed a moonlight dinner under the stars; no need for jumpers!!!

Back in our room after a superb meal where Christine enjoyed another Ostrich Fillet steak, we crashed-out, oops another early night!!!  Tomorrow we board the Rovos Train to Pretoria on the last leg of our adventure in this part of the world