Oldies On Tour

Back to the two of us again; Jane arrived back in Jersey OK, with both flights on time so that was good whilst we had a quiet morning with Christine still trying to sort out my ESTA.  The US web site where one applies for theses things is far from user friendly so we’re planning to go the the US consular office here in Antigua for help.  Judging by the experience we’ve had over the years with US immigration, I don’t hold

Overlooking the entrance to Harbour

out too much hope but let’s stay positive and optimistic. 

After an early lunch we headed to the beach for our daily exercise but en route decided to re-visit the remains of Fort James.  Though we had done this earlier with Jane, we hadn’t really had a good poke about, so today was the day.

Fort James is high up on the headland at the entrance to the harbour of St Johns. The fort was built to guard the entrance and is one of the many forts built by the British in the 18th

Fort James

century prompted by the fear of a French invasion.  All that remains today is the shell of one of the powder rooms, a number of cannons and the foundation of the fort’s walls. The main attraction up here now is the excellent view of the surrounding harbour.  I have to say those “old naval guys” knew a thing or two about defences, it was a magnificent and most commanding view of the entrance to St John and I bet if all those cannons fired up in anger, no ship would escape.

The fort is named after King James II when work started on it in 1706, and most of the buildings were constructed in 1739.   In 1773, the fort was armed with 36 guns, and had a barracks which accommodated 75 men.  There are a number of cannons still pointing out to sea but it appears some or all must have been replaced, as one we noted had a an 1805 date stamp cast into the barrel.

We revisited the fort james beach, again, due to its close proximity to us as well as being a superb stretch of sand however, there was quite a strong off shore breeze and the waves were kicking up a bit; still we managed our daily excise but missed Jane’s “water exit”

Stunning views over Harbour

performance!!!!

Today we visited the US consular and strangely it is very convenient as it only around the corner to our cottage, though the entrance is right in the middle of the road works.  As I have mastered the “local technique” of driving, getting into the embassy, ignoring red lights didn’t pose too much of problem, as they probably say round here, “just do it”, and we did!

Getting into “Fort Knox” was ok but before being scanned for god-knows-what, we saw how many were waiting and worse than that, the “one” consular wasn’t even there, but they were expecting him/her sometime; another day we said and went shopping instead.  We didn’t have our daily swim but had a quiet night as we are heading to Barbuda tomorrow; fingers crossed in case it gets cancelled again, after all we’ve had our trip to Montserrat cancelled due to the ferry going into dry dock and last weeks Barbuda was cancelled due to high seas, hence our apprehension!!!

Early start tomorrow ???

Jane’s time in Antigua is coming to an end in a couple of days so we discussed where else she would like to go to and after much

Carlisle Bay

deliberation chose the beach in Carlisle Bay, and at the same time she expressed a wish to have lunch in the Carlisle beach resort.  So after breakfast we set out.

Why such a specific request from Jane to visit the Carlisle beach resort one might ask, well, 14-years ago around the same time of year we sailed into, and dropped the anchor in this bay.  Then, like today the weather, though nice and warm was inclement, with overcast skies and rain showers.   Earlier in the week we had contacted the resort as our

Best bay on the Island

first intention was to go there on Jane’s birthday but after studying the menu, it wasn’t appealing to her as her memories were of an excellent “Chinese”, but time changes things.

Arriving at the beach via a cheeky little dirt track we left the car and walked towards the resort and parked ourselves on one of their beach chairs.   As expected, it wasn’t

Sheltering from the rain

long before a member of staff arrived with a security guard in tow to chase us off, or get us to buy a day pass for $300 US, explaining this was an all inclusive deal.  After a little more chatting it also transpired we could go into the “outside” part of the resort, use their beach tables and chairs as long as we had a drink, that’ll do we thought and moved into their area.  After further conversation it turned out  we could actually use the verandah restaurant overlooking the beach, so

Lovely setting, fantastic food

asked to see the menu.   The lady we had met on the beach with the security guard was still the same lady we were getting the updated information from as we went along, in fact we were having a laugh with both “Jaris” her name, and the guard, who called himself an “Jamtiguan”; born in

Fish soup, scrummy

Jamaica, lives in Antigua.  The menu duly arrived and was a far cry from the menu the resort emailed me, it was far more interesting!

After a few Rum Punches and Pina Coladas we finally decided what we were going to eat so ordered and strolled into the restaurant.   As I’ve said many times, “slowly slowly catchy monkey”

Beetroot and goats cheese

and the advice we were given from Jaris was, don’t pay the $300 up-front, keep the tab going and decide at the end whether to pay the bill or the day pass; lovely girl!!!

A thoroughly enjoyable lunch was had by the three of us helped with copious amounts of wine.   After dinner we sauntered back to our outside table before

Love it here, thank you Jane x

venturing into the sea.   The one good thing about about this beach is there is no shelf as you walk in.  Most beaches have a shelf about a couple of meters or so into the sea, presumably made by the fact there is minimal tide here.   Watching Jane get out of the sea has become a spectacle, entertaining to say the least thanks to these ridges but not today, Carlisle beach has spared her that embarrassment!!!!!

During our swim the heavens opened and just as we thought about

Carlisle Bay

rushing out of the sea to put all our clothes etc., under cover, Jaris was seen doing the honours, so we stayed where we were.

After a fabulous day, reminiscing and enjoying the ambience we arrived back at the ranch, I have to say we’ll go back before we leave.

Saturday we had arranged to meet Geoff

Dickenson Bay

and Rowena for lunch at C & C wine bar and restaurant so we only had a short morning but we had to go for our daily swim.  As it was early and as there were no cruise ships, we went to “Dickinson Bay” where Sandals is situated.  This nice beach has an approach problem, it is down a short hill on an unmade road normally full of taxis, but not today, we managed to park on the edge of the beach.   A swim, followed by a walk along the beach goorking into Sandals before heading back to change. 

Arriving at C & C’s expecting the reserved table we booked to be

C & C wine bar

waiting for us; no chance, it was a repeat of the Wednesday night, as they scurried around fitting two tables together to make room for us.   Twice we’ve booked a table, twice we’ve been let down, but never mind; its Antigua!!!!

The 5-of us had a great time enjoying the excellent food, one of our favourites for starters,  are their coconut shrimps,

C & C wine bar

delicious and all washed down with some superb South African smoked Chardonnay, accompanied by stimulating conversation with a lot of rugby banter between a Saints and a Chiefs supporter.  This rather extended lunchtime was in danger of

Redcliffe Heritage Centre

heading into evening when Jane and I started on the Brandies and at this point Geoff and Rowena escaped; they did have to drive to Falmouth Harbour, the opposite end of Antigua and it is an unholy experience driving after dark, so quite understood.

We awoke to Jane’s last full day with dark grey skies and heavy showers, and apart from a quick trip to the local supermarket, did little

Heritage centre

in the morning.  We were booked to return to Shirley Heights but upon advice from Mr Paul, the owners father, cancelled our taxi and decided to have a nice meal somewhere new; joke!!  Being Sunday most places we fancied, were closed in the evening, what a bummer.  Anyway after a

Coconut prawns

lot of internet browsing we came across the only place open, C & C wine bar; oh well we know we get good food there but won’t book, it seems to make little difference!

C & C seems to be our local now as we head down to Redcliffe Quay which overlooks the harbour of St. John’s.  This historic area is one of the oldest parts of the town, dating back as far as the 17th and 18th centuries.  In those days it was a busy waterfront docking area, widely regarded as the business and trading centre of the

Heritage centre

Caribbean.  It was the main trading place for Slaves, Rum, Sugar and Coffee between Antigua, Europe and Africa.  Today though it is where one can wander about down the narrow alleyways, browsing a few shops, and “down” a few Rum Punches, or in our case drink superb South African wines.

Arriving and parking with ease outside the Redcliffe Quay area made us wonder, why so quiet?   We soon found out as our wine bar was shut, locked and bolted and all evidence of tables and chairs removed, but their web site said they were open on Sundays ‘till 2000hrs, ugh!!!!    I’ll have to write to Claudine, the owner, and get their web site updated.

Oh dear, what now as we wandered around aimlessly exploring the

Akropolis Greek restaurant

possibilities.  There was nothing open in St Johns, we’ll nothing Jane fancied that is, only local food; we were game but it was “Madam’s” last night.   There was no alternative left, Jolly Harbour was where we had to go, and that meant I would be driving after dark, oh well at least I knew what to expect!!!!

On arrival, we were too early and nothing

Lovely setting for a meal

was open yet so sat overlooking the marina whiling away the time ‘till the “Greek” restaurant opened, yes tonight

we went Greek, and very nice it was.  The unusual starters were full of flavour and we all enjoyed the mains.  They had a superb

Laughing at Jane having her fag!

wine list but there were no “bottom end” wines so we limited ourselves to one bottle, a bit of a struggle but we managed it!!!

The drive back was as predicted, “hell” but we survived and once back home cracked open the brandy to calm our shattered

I have a similar photo 10 years ago

nerves.

We had terrible rain during the night and it wasn’t much better when we awoke. Also Jane leaves on tonight’s flight, it’s been a good 11-days and we’ll miss her. She’s such a good sport and we won’t have anybody to moan at, not to mention the stick we give her about her smoking; “Jane give it up”, if nothing else your pockets will bulge more!!!

By mid morning the sun came out, the temperature rose and we were

Fort James

much happier, so after coffee, with a brandy of course, we headed down to the Fort James Beach, via the ruins of the old Fort.  This beach is one of the longest on the island and as far as Jane was concerned, very good as there isn’t any tidal ridge with which the fall down on or up whilst leaving the sea!!!!

After the most expensive Rum Punches we’ve had on any beach, and they certainly weren’t the best we’ve enjoyed, we returned home.  Whilst Jane was sorting and packing I was on cooking duty and on today’s menu was “Corn-beef Hash” but with “parameter” potatoes garnished with a fried egg; it must have been ok as we ate it all up.  Whilst I was slaving over the cooker, Christine was standing at the ironing board directly under the air-con

Fort James Beach

outlet.

Time for the-off, car loaded and we headed to the airport, in the dark, to say goodbye to Jane, and apart from a minor hiccup checking in,

she’s on her way; Bon voyage Jane, see you in Spain later in the year.

During the evening we dropped the bombshell that tomorrow we had two rugby matches to watch at Cloggy’s bar in Falmouth Harbour;

Pigeon point bay

Jane has no interest what-so-ever in rugby, or any other sport come to that!!!!, so gave her a number of choices that are available to her.   We also had to get Jane acclimatised to the different time zone so we kept her up as late as possible and hopefully this does the trick, it usually does.

Saturday and up with the lark to get to the first march, Cloggy’s is up to an hour’s drive away and kickoff is at 10.15   Today it’s Ireland V Wales followed by Scotland V England. The final decision after much deliberation is that I drop Christine and Jane at Pigeon Point beach, watch the first match, then collect them before the second.

Phase 1 worked well, the girls were delivered to the beach, and I arrived in time for kickoff. My bonus was, not being such a popular game, I had my favourite seat, bar on my left, and an empty table

Cloggy’s bar

strategically placed on my right.  Soon after kickoff a couple asked if they could join our table and I said of course but just one favour in return, they have to save my seat and one other for the England game.  It turned out they were from Exeter and season ticket holders at Sandy Park and as Saints are only 1 point behind in the premiership (at the time of writing) there was a lot of banter between us and no doubt encouraged by the lack-lustre match we were watching.

When I arrived at the beach, the girls were waiting and better still, waiting for us upon our return to Cloggy’s were 2 chairs, in perfect positions to enjoy the England game.  I say enjoy, well, it was an appalling display by the England team, looking at today’s performance you wouldn’t believe they beat the “All Blacks” to get to the RWC final.  I know the weather was dreadful but that was the same for both sides, Farrell missed 9 points with his boot but eventually we carved out a win but how frustrating it was to watch.   I don’t think I have witnessed such tension as there was inside Cloggy’s, how no one threw a bottle at the TV screen I don’t know, it just demonstrated the self control and discipline of Rugby fans!!!

We got on very well with our new “Chiefs” friends, Geoff and Rowena so we all went downstairs for a snack lunch, where we enjoyed their spicy Mexican Pizzas.  Towards the end of lunch the heavens opened so the 5 of us settled down to more rum punches.

Saturday night was a washout, we all went to bed early!

The rugby match, France V Italy kicks off at 1100hrs so not to much rushing this morning.  Our plan was similar to yesterday, the girls are left at the beach whilst I frequent Cloggy’s then return and collect

Shirley heights with my favourite dancer

them.  By the end of the first half we were all convinced the French points would resemble a cricket score but no, I don’t know what the Italian coach must have said to his players but they certainly came out fighting.  Yes of course France won but nowhere near the margin they were heading for at half time, we’ll done Italy.

Tonight is Shirley heights night and our taxi is booked for 1600hrs so we we headed straight back to base for a late lunch and a little time to relax before leaving.

Our taxi arrived on time and off we set.  For me it was an interesting journey to Shirley’s as when I’m driving I have to concentrate 100%

Enjoying the moment

due to potholes, Antiguan Driving, which I have to say I’ve settled into very well, I can now “dice” with the best of ‘em, and the narrow roads.    Being a passenger I can look around and take in the sights and sounds.

Arriving at the heights around 1645hrs was actually too late, all the undercover tables were  taken but this didn’t deter us.  Whilst I went to the bar, the girls muscled in on a table so we were ok.  Next time we’ll book a taxi 1530hrs and hopefully we can get a table of our choice.   Tonight the weather looked as if it would rain all night but actually we only had a couple of light showers.   Sunday is definitely the night to go, big crowds, big on atmosphere in fact big on everything, though tonight wasn’t the best night if you only went there for the sunset.  There were too many clouds and fog over the sea, still there’s always next Sunday.   

After a thoroughly enjoyable late afternoon and early evening our chauffeur met us at the gatehouse as planned at 2030hrs, the activity actually stops at 2200hrs, but there were too many “lightweights” in our party of three!!!!   Returning in the dark reminded me why I don’t want to drive here after dark, even Denise (our driver) was complaining.

Monday morning didn’t bode well on the weather front, there were a

Coffee in Melino’s

few showers about but it was mainly overcast, so we headed out to Jolly Harbour to book a trip to Barbuda for later in the week.  After coffee we headed back to Redcliffe Quay, next to the Heritage Centre down by the cruise liner docks, and enjoyed a very enjoyable lunch at the “C & C Wine

C & C wine’s

House”, a wine restaurant specialising in South African wines; naturally we had to drink some and it was so enjoyable we had a second bottle; not quite Spanish prices though!!!

We had been recommended to a couple of local Caribbean food restaurants, but wanted to check them out to see what they were like.  We had also been told that the best “roti” place was called “Roti King” so as we were close to it we went there and bought one for later.

We watched Jeff cough up US $ 20 each time we visited a beach so decided it would be a better idea if we bought a couple of beach chairs and leave them at the end, far more economic so this afternoon we went round numerous shops and supermarkets looking for said items.   Eventually we found one, the only one in this shop but it had a screw missing.  We said we’d buy it with discount so agreed a price; a very nice quality beach chair.

During the evening, over dinner I suddenly remembered we’d bought this Roti but left it in the car, oops!!!    Into the fridge for tomorrow then.  After a few Brandy’s and putting the world to rights we hit the sack.

Today we were woken by a torrential downpour, amplified by our tin

Half Moon Bay, bit choppy!

roof and then at breakfast, having suffered in silence, announced I had to visit a dentist.  I had been to mine before leaving and took a calculated risk I’d last ‘till my return but no, so I started the search.  In the mean time the sun had come out and after the usual packed lunch headed to Half moon bay, the beach facing the Atlantic, but en-route stopped off at another supermarket and found a second beach chair, though much cheaper it was lower

Very difficult to stand up

quality and smaller, probably for a child, anyway Christine can get her bum on it so bought it.

Upon arrival priorities have to taken seriously so Jane and I headed straight to the beach bar whilst Christine “bagged” a table and opened up the lunch box.  Following lunch we went to the actual beach for our swim.    Presumably there had been some very inclement weather in the Atlantic as the rollers coming onto the beach were quite spectacular.  After being rolled over several times Jane retreated from the sea whilst Christine and I gave it our best shot.   After a few minutes Christine was in the “tumble dryer” of the surf and retreated.  I stayed on but even I got to the stage where the energy involved was rather too high so I followed suit.   This was

Half Moon Bay

unbelievable, both Christine and I had never retreated like this in earlier years; I put it down to too big a lunch just before entering!!!!  After several minutes and a small rain shower we left Half Moon and headed back to a beach near us. On our way back we stopped at the viewing point of Potworks dam and reservoir, though there wasn’t a lot to see as the trees and bushes obscure much of the view.

Potworks Dam and reservoir can store 4,142,000 cubic meters of water and is situated in the south of the Island.  It is the sole supplier of stored water for both domestic and agricultural purposes. It was built in 1969 and has very shallow sides which, believe it or not frequently runs dry; strange to believe that with so many tropical showers here.  The Antigens, being  practical and resourceful built this reservoir around an area that was already a flooded space. 

Back on St  James beach we enjoyed a more leisurely and relaxing swim before retiring back.  “Cuppa time” and we decided to attack the “Roti” after a very good zap in the Microwave.   Apparently one of these is a portion, we cut ours into three as it was so big, filled with potatoes, Chicken, and god knows what else, curried in a thickish sauce.  Christine and I enjoyed ours, we will certainly have another but Jane, well, least said the better however, she did try it first!!

Wednesday and today it is Jane’s “significant” birthday but unfortunately I have a dental appointment where I was expecting an extraction so apart from cooking Jane an omelet I was away.

After the administration formalities I was led into a state-of-the-art X ray room where The whole of my mouth was scanned.   Following a consultation with the dentist, he suggested a process that may save my tooth, well for the time being and I fell for it, a lot more money than just having it out.  Anyway a couple of hours later armed with a prescription I left and was back in time for lunch after a stop off at the Chemist.

One pain killer and one antibiotic later my mouth was back to normal,

Xmas tree in wine bottles

job done, so we headed out for a quick swim. It had to be quick as we had booked a table back at the South African Wine restaurant to celebrate Jane’s “coming of age” where we had superb food, superb wine and a great evening.   The only blot on the horizon was a ‘phone call I received to tell us that due to poor sea conditions tomorrow, the trip to Barbuda had been cancelled, oh no.  Still, looking on the bright side we don’t have a 0600hrs start.

Our first mission today was to take Jane to the hospital as her hands and face were burning up, but not through sun burn, she thinks she has either been infected by a bug or is allergic to one or more of the creams she is using.  Good old internet, we found a hospital that sounded ok so off we went.   Being a private hospital, Jane was seen immediately and after a short consultation and a prescription issued, we headed back.   Fortunately nothing serious though she has been advised to stay out of the sun.

Next it was a trip to Jolly Harbour to collect Jane’s deposit for the

Jane having another fag!

aborted Barbuda trip, this was the one thing she really wanted to do.  What a disappointment, she had stipulated before she booked up that this was a “must do” activity.   Anyway her deposit was refunded though we moved ours onto the next available trip, hopefully the following week the ferry will go!   After enjoying a couple of consolation rum punches we headed to

Lunch pre swim

Darkwood beach for our daily exercise before returning for dinner. 

Jane’s time in Antigua is coming to an end in a couple of days so we discussed where else she would like to go to and after much deliberation chose the beach in Carlisle

Dark wood beach

Bay.

After Jeff and Hillary left, the house felt quite empty, after all they only arrived a couple of days after we arrived, so this was really the first time we could relax on our own before Jane arrives.   We did a quick

No soberano though

shop though to get a bottle of “Brandy” in preparation for jane’s arrival as we know she enjoys a tipple in the evening.

Wednesday we had arranged to view a couple of boats in Jolly Harbour so we were up at an un-reasonable time.  We also missed Jeff at Breakfast today as he had mastered our “quirky” toaster and supplied the table with toast each morning, so we went without!!! 

We arrived at Jolly Harbour at the appointed time, met the yacht broker and was taken to view the main boat we’d arranged to view.

Lovely boat!

This was a Beneteau Oceania 430 kitted out as a live-aboard and strangely it is owned by a Spanish couple, though it sails under a Venezuelan Flag  which can be changed should we go past the looking stage.  Though this boat was 30 years old, it was immaculate both inside and out, and had been constantly upgraded over the years.   I have to say we were very impressed but we have found it a little earlier than we anticipated and are not really ready to go sailing this season: Oh well watch this space.

The other boat we wanted to view was in St Maarten, so that was out of the question; this time anyway.

Next we headed back to Radcliffe Quay in the port area of St Johns.  This historical area is also where the swanky, expensive shops are just outside the cruise ship terminal, strategically placed to catch the

Radcliffe Quay

“cruisers” as they come ashore and as they are boarding.   We had arranged to pay the deposit for 2-buggies for a 3-hour off-roading trip around the island when Lee and Sarah visit us early March.  It was very fortunate we didn’t wait to book as this activity is very popular, early March was the earliest they could accommodate us.  

Will need the Ibuprofen for this trip

Apparently the Cruise ships do block bookings and this time of the year there are many days when there are 3 in at once.

After a quick lunch back at the ranch we headed to Fort James beach for our daily exercise.  Today the beach wasn’t too crowded as we were later than usual and there was only 1 cruise ship in town.

A leisurely morning enjoying our independence and a second attempt by Christine to get our new USA “ESTA’s”, this time everything went to plan, we paid our money and we got confirmation our application had been received, approval should come within a few days.   We then

Lovely beach

prepped lunch and we were off, this time back to Pigeon Beach for the umpteenth time however, there was purpose to this repeat visit, we needed to go into Falmouth Harbour, firstly to confirm the rugby was on the TV at Cloggy’s bar and kickoff times and secondly, Christine’s flip flops had come to the end of their lives.   A new pair was needed and of course they couldn’t be a cheap pair from the local supermarket, oh

Good ones last longer

no, it had to be a “named brand” pair, still look on the bright side, built into the underside of each is a bottle opener; we won’t get caught out again on the beach!!!

Back home and after dinner the cards came out again.   There is a TV in the cottage but like most things here it’s needs an up-grade, poor picture and muffled sound.   We brought out the kit to be able to watch the numerous films I’d downloaded but with such distorted sound it is purgatory to listen to, hence many games of cards.

Week end planned

Today we set about housekeeping in preparation for the “Royal” visit, Jane arrives this afternoon.   

A couple of days ago we had a frog/toad pay us a visit, and this thing must like it here as we see it regularly, it is never far away and today is no exception as Christine found him sitting comfortably inside my swimmers that were hanging on the line.  But was that all, no, when Christine brought the mop bucket in, guess who jumped out and scarpered into the Kitchen, yes it was “Freddie” the frog.   I was quietly minding my own on the verandah when I heard this un-holy scream with the words “Geoff, get inhere quick”. There was Freddie stuck halfway up the. Wall.   After a few moments of jumping around a bit I caught and despatched him back to the garden; when will he visit us again I wonder!

Jane’s flight arrived early so we hot-footed over to the airport to meet her and to our astonishment she was in the first tranche of passengers to exit immigration and customs.   I suspect it was the desire for a fag, after all 8hrs is a long time to wait for one.  We count our blessings that we gave up smoking donkey years ago, none of this anxiety!

Arriving back at base the we broke out the “Rum Punches” and settled in for the evening; Jane is with us!!!!!

Half Moon Bay

Continuing our theme to get to as many beaches as we can, today is the turn of “Half Moon Bay Beach”, which is situated on the South East of the Antigua.   However before we go, we had to do our usual supermarket run.

Our drive to Half Moon was over roads we hadn’t been on before, driving right past

Cricket stadium

the Sir Vivian Richards cricket stadium, the new stadium built in 2007 for the cricket World Cup, held in the West Indies.  This 10,000 seater stadium sits majestically a few miles out of St Johns but is hardly ever used.  The roads are in desperate need of repair yet there is no money, crazy or what; still it’s all for the love of their main sport,

cricket.  A few years ago we visited their old

Old cricket stadium

cricket stadium, it was adequate, so why not throw about 20% of the cost of the new stadium, and then they could have used the rest to sort the roads!!!!   I suppose, having been on nearly all the roads in Antigua, the only decent bit of road is the bit outside the new stadium.  Moaning over, I  suppose the hot, sunny weather more than compensates for this inconvenience of bad roads!!!

Half Moon Beach was lovely apart from a ring of seaweed on the

Off to the bar

shoreline, I suspect there had been some bad weather in the Atlantic that caused this.

We enjoyed our lunch on some tables provided by the beach bar, probably shouldn’t have used them as they sell food, still we bought a couple of beers!!!

Idyllic settings for a drink

Being on the Atlantic coast we had some rollers which made the dip in the sea more enjoyable, and the beach also had sun beds with sunbrellars, so Jeff and Hillary were content.   Following our swim we went to the bar and I enjoyed the first, hopefully of many, “Pina coladas” whilst watching the world go by.

After an exhausting day, well for Christine and I, we headed back to base.

Sunday, and the four of us had an early start as we headed over to

Falmouth Harbour

Falmouth Harbour to watch the France V England game being televised from Paris.  We watched it in Cloggy’s bar here in the Caribbean, what could be better; we’ll being there I suppose or better still, an England win.  Never mind, we were amongst like-minded people all enjoying

No boats for sale here

the atmosphere.   Following the game we had a wander about the harbour drooling over some of the multi-million pound super yachts moored up before we had a snack lunch, after which we headed to Carlisle beach, number 11 of 365.  Years ago we dropped anchor in this bay and had enjoyed, though a wet day, at the “posh”

Carlisle Bay

resort on Carlisle beach, it was good to get back again.  The beach is in this  sheltered bay and swimming was a pleasure.

Tonight we were treated to a meal at the Italian restaurant in Jolly Harbour, excellent food though I question the “Italian” pedigree!!!!

An action packed Sunday ended with the

Italian restaurant

drive back to base camp.  Driving here at night brings a totally new meaning to “driving skills”; not only is one dodging the pot holes that can’t be seen ‘till the last minute, oncoming traffic have no idea about dipping headlights, they’re on full beam continuously.  No doubt the locals know each pothole individually, but as we are mere visitors we have to search them out, causing us to stop at times due to

Lovely setting overlooking the yachts

being blinded, still we got back safely.  In future going out after dark calls for a taxi.

Monday and it’s Jeff and Hilary’s last day and they elected to visit Fort James Beach, not too far from our cottage so after the usual morning chores we arrived at the beach, 12 of 365.   This beach being close to St Johns and the cruise ship terminal means it is more commercial and therefore busy, still as we were early and we would be

Always tell when the ships are in!

there for 4/5 hours, we also hired a couple of sun beds.

By early afternoon the beach was pretty busy as there were 3 cruise ships in, still the actual water was quiet enough so all was fine but around 1500hrs, there seemed to be mass migration, everybody went back to their ships and when we eventually left around 1700hrs, we were the last 4 people On this beach.

Beach to ourselves again

After our “last” supper 3 of us settled down to a game of Crib.   During the week we had re-aquatinted Jeff on how to play crib, something he used to play in his  youth.   His ambition tonight was to win one game, sadly, though he got very near he just couldn’t win.  During the evening as I was minding my own business concentrating on which card to play I felt something odd on my leg and as one does, I flicked it off.  Christine asked what’s the matter, and I told her, we then looked to see what it was.  Naturally I was accused of imaging it all but then to our surprise we saw a “toad/frog”, the thing on my leg.    It then jumped into the house and as we chased it, it had the good sense to jump into our cool box which had its top open to dry.   How fortunate for us and we dispatched it into the garden.  We didn’t fancy chasing it around the house trying to catch it!!!

This morning was about our guests packing etc., and for the first time this trip, Christine cooked us a full English late morning, and I must say it’s not too soon!!!!  To wile away some time, Jeff and I had a last game of crib and to his delight he won a game, he has now left with another happy memory.

Antigua airport built with Chinese money!

It was then time to head to the airport and send our guests off back  to the cold, damp, miserable UK weather whilst we returned to put our feet up ‘till Jane arrives at the end of the week.

Tuesday dawned with a beautiful clear blue sky, obviously the tropical rain showers have now passed, so today we headed to Galleon beach, 8 of 365, a small beach situated opposite the entrance to English

Galleon Bay

Harbour.  The last time we were there, there was a large resort with a taxi rank but sadly nothing now except for a small bar with no electricity.  Apparently the resort complex went bankrupt owing the electricity supplier US $ 485,000, still the beach was fairly empty with many yachts anchored just off, so we had some entertainment we could watch.

 Wednesday was the usual, leisurely morning and after the daily visit to the shop for the day’s food we headed to Runaway beach, one of the nearest to where we are staying; a simple procedure one might say, but no. SatNav directed us, or tried to round a sort of housing estate, well I suppose you call it that, then kept changing its mind telling us to turn

Runaway Beach

direction and we kept going over the same ground until we eventually arrived at an unmade road, nothing strange in that but the ruts and overhanging branches eventually forced us to turn back.  Jeff now consulted trip advisor and when it said this was a very easy beach to get to, well!!!   So we took a management decision and forgot about it for now, we’ll attack it another day and decided to go to Hawksbill beach, number 9 of 365.   En route we drove along the harbour where there were 3 cruise ships moored and one of them, the Crown Princess, is the one we will be travelling to Barcelona in April.

Hawksbill beach gets its name from the single rock sticking out in the

Hawksbill beach

sea shaped like a hawk, but as you keep looking at this rock you will see all sorts of animals.

Today was also the first time Christine and I got our snorkelling gear out as there were rocks at our end of this beach, but after quite a considerable time the only thing we noticed was an old, abandoned outboard engine, so we walked to the other end.  Here we saw another holiday complex, chalets etc but it appeared to be dead, nobody was around and we proved this by sitting on one of their sun beds.  Usually when that happens there is always some flunkey

Happy Carib day

hovering ready to take your money.   Travelling around the island we have come across numerous holiday projects either abandoned before completion, or closed down.  Perhaps Antigua is promoting Cruise ships, easy, take the money with minimal fuss, and they go, who knows.

After a pleasant lunch and swim we headed back but en route went via Runaway beach, by arriving at it from St Johns made it simple and we now discovered why SatNav led us astray.  There is a large body of water between us and Runaway beach with a causeway across the middle and this was the problem, we were unwittingly going along it when we turned round earlier in the day as we discovered the other end of it.  Looking at it I suggest even a 4×4 would have struggled to get along it, still job done.

Runaway beach before boy had raked it

Today; Thursday will be a change from the normal as we are going to Shirley heights tonight, so after the pantomime of yesterday morning we now know how to go straight to Runaway beach.   Breakfast took its normal course before we were on our way to the beach.  Again another change from the norm, we won’t be visiting the supermarket today as our plan is for lunch at “Mistic Bar” on beach 10 of 365

We arrived rather too early, and though the bar was accessible it wasn’t open, everything was locked away and the fellow on duty couldn’t tell us when the lady owner would be opening up.  Still we enjoyed having a table under cover, and off the beach to put our things on whilst we enjoyed “Runaway”, a two mile long stretch of white sand all to ourselves; there was no one there except us. Eventually the owner did turn up just before lunchtime and we managed to get some beers, but after looking at the menu decided not to eat there.  After a short discussion we decided to go to the KFC situated around the

Viewing area top of Shirley National Park

corner from our cottage.

Back home after a hearty KFC we leisurely readied ourselves for the night at Shirley heights.   We had never been on a Thursday before so this was going to be a new experience for us as we have always been on a Sunday.   A “Shirley Heights” night, is one big party with steel bands, lots of

Stunning views

drinking and bar-b-q up on top of the hill overlooking English Harbour and Nelson’s Dockyard.  This party takes place amongst the ruins of a lookout post and garrison, built by the British Navy in the 17th century on the south side of the island to keep a lookout for the French should they come and attack.  Apart from the “partying” this

Steel band keeping up entertained

hilltop is also a wonderful place to see the sun setting over the Caribbean; tonight, though quieter than the normal Sunday “bonanza” was not too  disappointing.

Driving home was interesting as I had enjoyed rather a lot of rum punches, still we made it without a hitch.   Note to myself, get taxi’s next time!!!

As a quartet we spoken about visiting other parts if Antigua, namely the north and east of the island but always got seduced with the prospect of doing as many of the 365 beaches as we can.  Today was the day we would have a drive around and find a

Sunset

suitable place to enjoy our packed lunch.

We headed to the North, following, ha ha ha, their coast road, pot holes and all.  This must be where the money is, we passed some magnificent looking houses perched above the sea with uninterrupted sea views.  We drove down several lanes and tracks but just couldn’t get down to the sea, money had seen to that!!!   We carried on and eventually arrived at the backside of V. C. Bird, Antigua’s international airport.   According to the map there is a road but we think the authorities try to discourage you from using it as it is a wide track with more than the usual potholes, they were ruts and the comfort of the passengers was more than a little uncomfortable but naturally we weren’t phased, we soldered on: poor Pepe 2, our Toyota car.   This track just kept going, as we did, alongside the runway of this airport built and paid for by the Chinese.

We eventually escaped and arrived at Parham, probably Antigua’s second “town”, a hamlet  of hand-built houses but as far as we could

Pigeon point bay

see, no shops but several religious buildings.   After another dead end we’d had enough, lunch was calling and as we still hadn’t found a suitable destination, we aborted.  Following another discussion we headed back to Pigeon Point beach, though half an hour away, it was the nearest to us.

Arriving soon after we luckily found a unused beach table and set about our late lunch.  After our usual swim and walk we headed back for our normal evening, funnily enough we were all ready for an early night; too much partying last night on Shirley Heights!!!!  Still a new day tomorrow 

Just love this view!