Off roading

Off we go!

Off we go!

This morning we headed to Fort James Beach but en-route stopped by the old fort for Sarah and Lee to admire the view from the top, high above the harbour.   The sea today, though still nice and warm was quite rough for the Caribbean, presumably there was some bad weather about in a “far-off” place, anyway it was a challenge entering and leaving the sea.  We didn’t stay long as we had an appointment at 1330hrs at the “Salty Dog” office as we had booked an “off-road” excursion so headed home for a quick snack before arriving at the “Salty Dog” offices to “pay-up” and have the debrief, the usual health and safety warnings etc., followed by signing away any rights we “may” have with the disclaimer!!!

Bumpity bump

Bumpity bump

We mounted our off-road “chariots”, Japanese built, 500cc 4 wheel drive CFMoto Z force vehicles, and we were off. We headed out of the port area of St Johns, through the back streets, many of which we hadn’t been through before, before hitting the open road heading for the big mountain in the rain forest. Our party consisted of the Salty Dog lead driver “Donald”, Lee and Sarah in the first car, with Christine and I following. Behind us was the salty Dog “rear gunner”, there to ensure no one got left behind; fat chance of that with Lee and I driving!!!! Speeding along the open road, achieving 62-KPH at one stage, we soon reached the point of no return, i.e. onto the dirt tracks. Fortunately we were all secured with full harness belts, crash hats and a “big” grab handle for the passenger and naturally roll bars built in!!! I don’t know how Sarah felt sitting alongside Lee, but I know Christine was

Donald telling Geoff he is very naughty

Donald telling Geoff he is very naughty

apprehensive; it’s her bones you know!!!   It didn’t help that en-route we had to stop to get Christine’s full harness straps tightened; the last person must have been rather large!!!!

We had been told to follow Donald’s wheel tracks on the basis he knew the best way through the dips, bumps, mud baths, rocks and oh yes, the “supposed” track, and this we did at breath-neck speed, staying as close as possible in line astern.   All was well until we met a “car” coming the other way; how a car managed to be there we’ll never

Reservoir

Reservoir

know, but he was and we had to make room. Fortunately there was “spare” track off to the side, so we squeezed into that to let him by.   Due to this car “attacking us” we finished in a different order, I was in front of Lee and being a little “off-the-wall” stuck right up Donald’s backside and pushed him as hard as I could.   I expected, at the next stop to be told to calm down but no, he responded and the two of us were

Lots of mud and plenty of water

Lots of mud and plenty of water

off, and on occasions left the other two behind, Poor Christine, though she was well strapped in the jolts must have been very painful as there was no quarter given, I wasn’t going to let Donald have the satisfaction of getting away.

We had four pre-arranged stops. The first was where the original reservoir “Body Pond” was built many years ago, but today the dam is broken and there is minimal water and trees etc., growing out of it however there is still an outlet pipe for water to be used at our next stop. Here Donald pointed to a community of “Rastafarians”, apparently there are around 100 of them in total, living a self-contained and self-sufficient life in an enclosure that also has its own school etc., and in addition, they

Looking over St.Johns

Looking over St.Johns

cultivate all the land around the enclosure for their food. The Antiguan Government has given them a one hundred year lease on the land, and if they still occupy it at the end, they have the right to buy it.

Our next stop, more of a comfort break and we were given some pineapple chunks to eat. We then set off on our last off-roading section prior to heading back to St Johns and now we really gave it some “welly,” no holds barred knowing it was all coming to the end.

Our last stop was high above St Johns, the “official” picture spot looking down onto the 3-Cruise ships moored in the harbour with the surrounding buildings.

We tootled down some really “hairy” hills, in very low gear as our last “hurrah” before returning the buggies to the Salty Dog pound. After all

Fantastic view of St.Johns

Fantastic view of St.Johns

the good byes and the discretionary tip, we headed to C & C for a bottle of wine, well two to be precise, with all four of us sporting grins from ear-to-ear, we had all had a fabulous time though it did go very quickly, we think they cater for slow drivers, and we weren’t, we went too fast!!!!!!

Leaving C & C for a much needed shower before heading out again, this time to a recommended restaurant that “advertises” and as its name suggests, they only do “Fish & Rum”, though we think they can do chicken if needed.   After a difficult drive to find this place in the back streets of St Johns, including a 20-point turn, we arrived, only to find it heaving with no spare tables. It hadn’t occurred to us to book a table for opening time, we hadn’t been told just how popular this place was!!   Oh well, after a short discussion we headed back to the old faithful place, yes C & C.   Christine and I will try again another time and report back to Lee and Sarah,

Back at the ranch we headed straight to bed though Lee did download the videos he took some are embedded here.

 

This video is very big but at least you can get some idea what my bones suffered. Christine

Geoff’s face says it all!

Geoff’s face says it all!

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Sailing

The complete package

The complete package

Tuesday and the day I’ve been waiting for has arrived at last.  Today the four of us have chartered a private yacht with skipper and we can’t wait.

Breakfast was taken swiftly and on the hoof as we had to be in Jolly

Lee and Nick at the controls

Lee and Nick at the controls

Harbour for 1000am and goodness knows what the morning traffic will be like so we took the precaution of leaving early.  Anyway, the run over to Jolly was clear so as we were early, this allowed our guests to have a wander around and look at the boats in the marina.

We were Collected on the dot of 1000am and we headed to our vessel for the day; a Benateau 50, skippered by Nick and his mate (wife) Kay and we left the harbour.  Whilst heading out we scanned all the boats at anchor for the one we looked at and liked but unfortunately it was nowhere to be seen.  Oh well never mind It’ll be back, hopefully!!!!  Into the open sea, up went all the sails, engine off and we headed south, what could be better so broke out the beer; 

Kay chatting to Lee

Kay chatting to Lee

Fortunately this is not a dry boat!!!  The sea was clam and the wind light but we were sailing and that was the main thing.   Lee and Sarah hadn’t sailed before so they were enjoying their experience though Sarah had the foresight to take a sea sick pill before setting off.  Lee took the helm at one point an steered the boat superbly well following the coast line but inside the reef and for a few minutes we were healing over nicely, real sailing!!!!!   

Sarah doing her bit

Sarah doing her bit

We finally arrived outside Carlisle Bay and dropped the anchor before we all got into the clear, calm, warm blue sea where snorkelling was the order of the day.

Our Skipper was a retired Solicitor from Warwickshire who had come to Antigua 14-years ago and took over this private charter firm, well a boat!  That for him was the simplest and quickest way to get the necessary papers to operate a charter boat.  His wife used to be in “high-end” retail but now was Nick’s “mate” and “cook” and

Sunbathing on deck

Sunbathing on deck

“deckhand” and “relief helmsman” if he needs a break, but it works, they are a very good and efficient operating team.

Anyway, after our swim and back on board Kay produced a wonderful lunch; Wahoo on a homemade salsa with lemongrass mayonnaise and salad, followed by fresh fruit and Brownies all washed down with

Relaxing in the sun

Relaxing in the sun

buckets of delightful wine.   It’s amazing what can be produced from a small galley.

After some more swimming etc., we lifted the anchor and headed back north.  This time we only put out the jib but there was sufficient wind to keep us going and Sarah then took the helm during which time I enjoyed their “own version” of a rum punch, and it was very nice so I had a

Enjoying a rum punch

Enjoying a rum punch

second one!

We eventually pulled back into Jolly Harbour, moored up and said our goodbyes.   What a wonderful day we all had, our hosts were attentive, the skipper was informative both about the seas around the Island and the goings on in Antigua.

Leaving the boat we popped into the “Crows Nest,” a waterfront bar and restaurant where it was happy hour, 2-drinks for the price of one

Sarah looking chilled

Sarah looking chilled

and Pina Coladas were the choice three of us went for.  They went down so well we did two rounds, 4-Pina Coladas each, unfortunately I had forgotten I had been supping all day on the boat including 2-very strong rum punches, all I will say is, Christine had to drive back!!!!!   We collected a KFC on the way home and soon after dinner I went to bed, whilst the others stayed up and played crib.

Enjoying ourselves

Enjoying ourselves

Another exciting day tomorrow!!

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Sarah and Lee arrive

A normal Saturday, quiet morning for Christine trying to rest her foot though we still had to go shopping.   What a mistake, we had to visit 2 supermarkets to actually get most of what we needed.   Supermarkets here tend to run out of stock, their logistical supply chain needs some serious attention!!!

Arriving at the airport on time to meet Sarah and Lee, we encountered a small issue we’d not had before.  Unfortunately the  Virgin flight was the 5th long haul plane to arrive during the last 2hours with rather too many passengers for the airport to process quickly so instead of short wait, it was a long one, and nowhere to have a coffee etc.

With big cheesy grins they emerged and their first words were “how nice to be in the warm again”.  Saturday was a lovely warm sunny day.   On the drive back they quickly grasped the difficulty of driving here, pot holes etc.

After suitable freshening up time the four of us headed into Redcliffe quay for a meal, and yes we went to C & C, again!!!   And if that wasn’t enough we enjoyed the usual fare washed down with four bottles of

Lee and Sarah

Lee and Sarah

their lovely South African Smoked Chardonnay, whoops !!!! We then retreated back to  base and carried on!!! We finally got to bed at midnight, four am, their time!

Not too early and after a slow start headed to Half-moon beach and introduced Sarah and Lee to the delights of the Caribbean, including a Pina Colada.   We couldn’t stop here too long as we had to be back at the ranch in time to wash and dress before “Barry” our taxi arrived; tonight is Shirley Heights night and as the weather has been so

View from the blockhouse

View from the blockhouse

glorious the sunset will be spectacular.   En route we stopped at “The Blockhouse”, this is the remains of the British base high up on the cliff looking out onto the Atlantic, and it was designed as the place the British would make their last stand should the

Amazing views

Amazing views

island be invaded, fortunately it never was.

Sunday at Shirley Heights, as I’ve said on many occasions is the place to be.  The steel band, goodness knows how many musicians there are in the band, as it entertains the very large crowd who gathers

Fantastic sunset tonight

Fantastic sunset tonight

up here every Sunday night, non stop from 4-pm till 7-pm, though this week they just kept going and eventually stopped at around 7.30-pm.   Such a beautiful sunset tonight, Lee and Sarah couldn’t have

Brilliant night

Brilliant night

chosen a better night to be in this magic spot.   After dark all the super yachts switched on their mast and anchor lights and being such a clear night, Falmouth and English harbours

An amazing place

An amazing place

sparkled.

Our taxi driver “Barry” was a hive of information about all sorts of things Antiguan, from its history to the current day, as he says, the islands economy is centred around tourism and as a “registered” taxi driver he has to play his part in encouraging tourists to enjoy Antigua and hopefully return.18361f89-a906-4244-b244-0c09322b1243

Arriving back home around 9.30-pm we’d all had enough, swimming in Half Moon, rum punches up at Shirley’s and a late alcoholic night before we were all ready for bed and besides we had to be up early Monday for our first experience.

Today we are heading to the rain forest part of the island to experience

One of the bridges we crossed

One of the bridges we crossed

the “zip Wires”, where cables, slung between trees with some crossing the valley with deep undergrowth, are waiting for us.   Arriving earlier than expected we headed down to Carlisle Bay so they could view what we think is in the top echelon of beaches here in Antigua.

Back in the adventure park in the rain forest and after “donning on all the gear” and having had our “safety brief” we

Ready for the off!

Ready for the off!

Geoff getting sorted

Geoff getting sorted

headed up the steps to the first run.   Our party was only 8 in total and very friendly though the two other couples were experienced, they’d done this sort of thing on other holidays, on other Islands, we on the other had were complete novices and, we’ll Christine and I, were very apprehensive, still we arrived at the takeoff platform.   The first length was very short, this enabled us to get a feel of everything and put into practice what we had learned in the briefing.   Generally speaking 6-went down very well, Christine on the other hand had a mild panic

Wow

Wow

attack at take off point, but fair do’s she did it with encouragement from “Sam” the girl who clipped us all onto the wires, and me behind saying there is only one way down!   When it was my turn to go, that was fine but I couldn’t stop turning and landed bum first nearly flattening “Hawk” the receiver.

Sam and Hawk accompanied us all round the 13-different zip wires, they were very professional and the health and safety standards were extremely high, we all felt totally secure throughout. After the first zip,

So scary, but good fun

So scary, but good fun

we settled down, Christine just did it though several times forgot to lift her feet as she travelled over trees etc., I kept spinning and on all but two occasions landed bum first, couldn’t fathom out why, whilst Sarah and Lee looked professional and to that end did all the videoing from a camera mounted on their heads!!!

To leave the final landing platform we had 66495fd2-8620-49a7-a8a9-20dadec61ad5to cross a number of wire bridges, hung between trees before reaching the steps back out of the valley, so many steps, it nearly killed us!!!!!   Secretly, perhaps, we were disappointed it was over, anyway a good time was had by all so we headed off to Falmouth Harbour for a beer at Cloggys.

Oh no, Cloggys is closed on a Monday, I should have known so it was downstairs to the “Seabreeze” for a beer and another “Mexican” pizza.

Next we headed to Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour; one cannot visit Antigua and not tour this area, so we did.   Sarah in particular was

English Harbour

English Harbour

fascinated by all the super yachts moored both in Falmouth and English Harbour, so we had a good look.

OK, it’s beach time and the nearest was Pigeon Point Beach, our old faithful.   Unfortunately today it was very busy as there was a small French cruise ship moored just outside the harbour, and they were bringing their guests to the beach on their tender, most unacceptable!!!!!

As usual we had a good swim, and whilst enjoying a pina colada, the heavens opened and this was very annoying as we had just got ourselves dry ready for the off, oh well, never mind we’ll drive home wet.  Of course once in the car the sun came out again!!!! 

Tonight Lee and Sarah are having a night off from the “oldies” they’re heading to “Nomads”, a restaurant just up our road that we have had good reports of, we look forward to their feedback.   It is also a very important anniversary for them so it was right they had a nice romantic evening.

The funny thing about all this, Sarah and Lee we’re looking to a

Geoff looking at yachts again

Geoff looking at yachts again

relaxing few days in the sun, some swimming etc but it has been all go go go and tomorrow is another early start, watch this space!

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A quiet few days

Rain woke us up this morning, the first shower for a week or more now, so a quiet start of the day but Unfortunately the rain came back mid morning, and came down rather hard, so we settled in for the day.  Actually it was rather nice not chasing around and we could do b015ccb8-16ce-464e-919b-409b99526262relaxing things!!!!

Our walk before the bridge

Our walk before the bridge

Thursday, and we woke up to the return of “proper” weather and feeling invigorated got on with “going out” preparations.   Today we’re off to Deep Bay, 15 out of 365 about half an hour away. 

After a bit of a detour thanks to WAZE sending us to a private resort, where a very nice guard on the gate redirected us, we arrived at the parking area.   To actually access this beach we now had to cross a bridge and follow a short path around the bottom of “Goat  Hill” upon which sits the remains of the old British “Fort Barrington” and when we got to the beach,  boy was it worth it, a long stretch of sand curving

Fort Barrington

Fort Barrington

around the bay greeted us. 

We found a suitable palm tree under which we could deposit our chairs etc., and enjoy the swimming, beach walking and the local environment.

There is an extraordinary history for this

What a life!

What a life!

“Goat Hill” which stretches back to the English civil war.  In 1652 Prince Rupert captured the old “earthworks Fortification” as it was then for the Royalists.     Fort Barrington as it is known was named after the Commander-in-chief, Leeward Islands, Admiral Barrington, when he had the old earthworks replaced by the stone fort that is there today.  We want to walk up but looking at the steep path we can’t attempt it whilst Christine is suffering with her ankle when we will know about the remains.

Ha ha ha!

Ha ha ha!

the lonely figure, Christine coming out of the sea brought to mind “Ursula Andress” in the 1962 Bond film “Dr No”, 59-years later!!!!!!   Anyway, After a really nice day, probably too much sun, we headed home

for a usual relaxing evening.

Friday and preparing for Lee and Sarah

Deep Bay, another stunning beach

Deep Bay, another stunning beach

arriving tomorrow otherwise a quiet day at home trying to get Christine’s ankle better

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Life goes on

Friday was “clean-up day” change beds etc., before we could venture out. We also had “Troy” our car rental man coming round as we want to extend the rental ‘till we leave mid March.   When we originally booked he gave us a very competitive rate and fortunately we kept that rate for the rest of our time here; so glad I didn’t pre-book a car at the airport, it would have cost a fortune. 

Once the chores were done we got onto those blessed ESTA’s again.  When we had them printed they didn’t look right, they came out landscape not portrait though and after talking to the US consular, we were told they we’re approved.   Still uneasy we’ll probably have them re-printed direct from our I pads where they are.

Whilst “I the mood” I decided I had to think about the documentation for our cruise back so started that tiresome task, but have to say it was a doddle; why couldn’t the US web site be so easy.

Whilst at the supermarket the other day we spotted a bottle of Italian white wine with a “Waitrose”  label on it at a very low price, so tonight we tried it and was quite surprised, it was lovely and light, reminiscent of Frascati, the bottle soon went.   We’ll get some more of that!!!!

We had a terrible night, the first we’d had whilst here.   Poor Christine was suffering delayed action from the bouncing and bumping we went through on the two trips on the Barbuda Express, and being the caring sort I am, stayed awake as well!

6-Nations rugby returns today with two matches this morning and the all important England V Ireland tomorrow, Sunday.

When the car rental chap delivered the car he forgot an-updated licence to cover the extra period so “promised” to be here at 0909hrs with it, he didn’t.  Anyway with Christine not feeling at her best, instead of depositing her at the Pigeon’s Point Beach, she elected to remain at base; so after ensuring she had everything she needed, and was aware the licence “may” turn up, I was off 

Two matches to watch, a terrible performance by Scotland and a miserable defeat for Wales I head back to find Christine hobbling around. Asking why, the answer flabbergasted me; she had gone to bed after the licence had arrived and was woken suddenly with a bump, she had fallen out of bed and twisted her ankle in the process: Poor Christine.

We wiled away the rest of the day was quietly and I cooked, I hope she doesn’t get food poising on top of everything else!!!!!

Falmouth Harbour

Falmouth Harbour

Sunday and it’s England V Wales so the two of us headed to Cloggy’s again.  Arriving I got  chatting to a couple at the bar who looked very chirpy, it turns out they are also Exeter Chiefs supporters and after discovering we followed Saints, took great pleasure in telling me they had “thrashed” Saints in the premiership match earlier this morning. A good start before an England game!!!!  If that wasn’t all, we sat

Lovely Pidgeons beach

Lovely Pidgeons beach

next to an Irish lady during the game who naturally took quite a lot of stick.  England won and that’s al that mattered.

A quick lunch downstairs before going onto Pigeons Point beach for a lovey swim though being Sunday the beach was crowded and there

were numerous yachts at anchor.

Long beach bay

Long beach bay

Monday and today Longbay beach number: 13 of 365 is our destination down in the southeast of the island, though on the Atlantic side, the bay is sheltered by a point and it has a reef across the bay.  We parked under some trees right next to the sand, took our chairs, picnic cool box etc., and

Little shops on route

Little shops on route

found a very nice shady spot about 5 meters from the shoreline. 

The highlight of the afternoon was walking into the “Pineapple resort” to get a drink.  When the bartender gave us our drinks I asked how much only to be told this was an all inclusive holiday resort, and then twigged we weren’t guests.  With the drinks

Sitting enjoying our free drinks

Sitting enjoying our free drinks

made and poured she was in a little pickle, so she then told us to take our drinks and go away from the bar, naturally we didn’t give her a hard time; free drinks on the beach, excellent.  On the return journey we stopped off at the “Devils Bridge”.  

Devil’s Bridge

Devil’s Bridge

Devils Bridge is formed in the limestone rock, bashed by the Atlantic’s waves crashing into it for hundreds of thousands of years and in the process has formed geysers and blowholes where the water shoots through.  The 2 world name is interesting;  “bridge”, because it actually forms an arch or bridge,

Devil’s Bridge

Devil’s Bridge

“devils”, because local myth suggests slaves jumped off this bridge during the period of slavery and the myth goes on to suggest the “devil” claimed them

Back at the ranch our evening was much the same as usual but en route went into the supermarket to buy some more of that “Waitrose Light Italian wine” but, too late they’d sold out, bugger!  Never put off………………. instead there was a Waitrose “Chilean” white wine that we bought and tried, it was nice enough, but unfortunately not up to the standard of the Italian one!

After much debate we decided to go to OJ’s, a restaurant on “Crab Hill beach”, number 14 of 365, as we’d heard good reports about it.  

OJ’s beach restaurant

OJ’s beach restaurant

Stopping off at Jolly Harbour on the way ensured we arrived at Lunchtime.  In spite of the recommendations we’d had, we still looked this place up on “trip advisor” and as usual found comments right across the board, from the best place to the worst place on earth!; no change there so went to

My red snapper was enormous

My red snapper was enormous

form our own impression.   We left after a couple of hours having enjoyed very good food, a good assorted drinks and wine menu, and excellent service with their own car park. We wandered about the beach but

Might try some of these cocktails behind our bar

Might try some of these cocktails behind our bar

Unfortunately Crab Hill beach didn’t do a lot for us so dressed and headed over to Carlisle bay for our daily exercise before returning.  We had eaten so well at lunch, we couldn’t face anything further to eat or drink!

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A Day In Barbuda

Our alarm went off at 0600hrs, unheard of this trip and after a quick breakfast headed to Jolly Harbour to board the “Barbuda Express”.   We were told it was a prompt 0800hrs departure and to pay and complete formalities we “must” be there for 0730hrs.

Barbuda Express

Barbuda Express

We, along with many others duly arrived at the departure dock at the prescribed time, and waited, and waited, and waited until finally a woman arrived explaining it had been delayed at St Johns by the arrival of a cruise ship and therefore all port activities had to stop whilst this “monolithic cruise ship” docked.  The stupid thing is, all cruise ship activity at St Johns is available to all, even we know!   Why the Barbuda Express operators didn’t leave a few minutes earlier to compensate is beyond comprehension, everybody says “oh well this is Antigua”.  Anyway one hour later and we were on our way, we were also told the crossing would take 90 minutes and would be choppy, so sickness pills were available for those who wanted one. So I was a good girl and took one!

Leaving Jolly Harbour

Leaving Jolly Harbour

Heading out of Jolly Harbour and the first thing we set eyes on was the Benateau 43 we’d looked over and liked, sitting majestically whilst riding at anchor with its dingy alongside, ahhhhhhhh.  Out of the harbour and travelling north in the Lee-of-Antigua was very pleasant, we spotted the beaches we’d visited and the ones we have yet to visit, passing St Johns where the ferry started; why couldn’t we start there?, and as we left the protection of Antigua we were immediately buffeted by the Atlantic waves crashing against our starboard side.   This catamaran ferry rolled the lateral waves like a good ‘un as we headed at 20 knots (22-MPH).  Everybody was hanging on, any moving about was really not recommended, though one brave woman did visit the “loo” as she was green, but didn’t re-emerge until we’d docked.   Our 90 minute trip took 120-minutes, still, wet and shaken, but not stirred, we disembarked under a totally blue sky and heat to match, we met our driver and guide,”Devon”.

Barbuda is a small island located in the eastern Caribbean and is about 30-miles north of Antigua in the Leeward Islands and is part of the West Indies.  Barbuda is a popular spot for tourists because of its moderate climate, mainly due to it being very flat so it doesn’t 2b264c60-e0cf-4607-b417-4ee4452fedd3experience the rain like many other Caribbean Islands.  Historically, most of Barbuda’s 1,638 residents lived in the capital, “Codrington Town”, However, in September 2017,Hurricane “Irma” damaged or destroyed 95% of the island’s buildings and infrastructure and as a result, all the island’s inhabitants were evacuated to Antigua, leaving Barbuda empty for the first time in modern history.

Barbuda was discovered by Columbus in 1493 along with Antigua but was not a populous  island. Therefore in January 1685 King Charles II granted a 50 year lease to Christopher and John Codrington, born in the West Indies they and had inherited their land and wealth from

Beautiful beaches

Beautiful beaches

their father, and though their lease was for 50 years, their  descendants “ruled” the island ‘till 1833!

Though the Codringtons were wealthy and had sugar plantations around The Caribbean, and though Barbuda had minimal rainfall and very thin soil meaning it couldn’t grow sugar cane, their agenda was to raise cattle to feed their slaves and sell surplus to other landowners and by all accounts were successful. In their time they started a number of new profitable side lines, one of which was ship salvage.   Barbuda is surrounded by shallow water, much of which has nasty rocks which caused many ships to flounder. Now according to “Devon” the story is more sinister, he “says”, the Codringtons helped this along by setting fires to persuade passing

Seven mile stretch of sand

Seven mile stretch of sand

ships there was another ship between them and Barbuda; thereby upping the salvage tonnage!!!!  Another story doing the rounds is that during the height of those dark slavery times, Barbuda became a slave “breeding centre”, though this is now being questioned.  The reason could be that the slave population here on Barbuda was happy and had freedoms others didn’t, and this reflected in the fact that apart from the first intake, the slave population grew naturally. **

Our first attraction were some caves and en route we could still see the remains of the thorough devastation “Irma” caused.  One original

Atlantic coast

Atlantic coast

export was coconuts but as we passed by the plantation all the tops of the palm trees had been blown off.  Another area severely damaged believe was their race course, yes they had a race course and Devon seemed very upset it hadn’t been fully restored.   Incidentally the roads are like Antigua, full of ruts, potholes and tracks!!!

Arriving at the end of a track, we then had a short walk before reaching the bottom of the highest spot on the island and looked up at this large hole in the side of the rock.  Once we had clambered up to the entrance we wondered what all the fuss was

Climbing up into the caves

Climbing up into the caves

about.  Inside this big aperture we could see daylight through another hole, high up at the top which meant scrambling up rocks to get there and as we, like most others, only had flip-flops on, it wasn’t a goer, so we returned to the beach below to

Climbing to the top

Climbing to the top

wait for the rest.    We think we should have been warned to take trainers or something suitable.

Fantastic views from top apparently

Fantastic views from top apparently

Back in the car, we headed off to the fishing centre quay and got into a small flat bottomed boat and headed over the lagoon to look at the “Frigate Bird Sanctuary” .   Christine had visited the sanctuary 14-years ago when we visited Barbuda on “Whitbread”.  Douglas

Frigate birds

Frigate birds

and I didn’t join the group, we sat in a bar; I didn’t miss going then and now I would have been happy to be back in that same bar with Douglas.   Once you’ve seen one frigate bird, you’ve seen them all.  The highlight for me was returning across the lagoon a15b5c9c-b73f-43eb-a7a2-926927e59dearacing another boat, says it all I think!!!

The highlight of the day was next, a lobster

Our lobster lunch

Our lobster lunch

lunch in an interesting makeshift beach restaurant, but very enjoyable.  This was followed by a drive to the “Princess Diana Beach” but as the ferry had arrived late into Barbuda, and it wasn’t going to stay longer to compensate, we didn’t have a long time,  in

Geoff enjoying his rum punch

Geoff enjoying his rum punch

fact no time for a swim so had a rum punch instead.

The economy of Barbuda as one would expect is fragile at present and they have to encourage as many tourists as possible to visit.  The marketing of a “day trip” in Barbuda sounds very attractive but had no

Such an idyllic place

Such an idyllic place

real substance, still we’ve done our little bit towards re-building.   Post Irma the economy is struggling, currently their main sources of income comes from exporting builders sand that’s quarried somewhere in the middle of the island and it is clean, but unfortunately that is now coming to an end. Secondly they export Lobsters, These are harvested naturally from their lagoon, an area that’s very well protected and judging by the ones we had, are extremely nice and fresh to eat.  Lastly tourists, currently day trippers and a few that stay in the rented cottages still standing.   Prior to Irma there were several very posh and expensive resorts but they were all

Coconut plants destroyed by Irma

Coconut plants destroyed by Irma

but “blown away” and have not been re-built.  It appears, talking to Devon, local politics has got in the way; what a shame.

One snippet of information Devon gave us was about land.  Every Barbadian has the “right” to own a plot of land, given to him free from the ruling council and on which he can build his own house.  This “gesture” gets right up the Antiguan government noses and has been a sore point for donkey years.   Talking of Donkeys, there are hundreds of them just roaming

Martello tower built by British

Martello tower built by British

around freely, apparently they are descendants of the original donkeys imported back in the 18th Century.

The return boat trip was a little easier as generally we surfed the Atlantic waves but again sitting in the stern we were drenched, still it was warm and we soon dried naturally.

Arriving back in Jolly Harbour, the race was on to try and drive back before it got dark, partially successful but in the “twilight”, some oncoming cars had lights on but many didn’t and even worse, pedestrians were wandering about on the roads, dark skinned, dark clothes, and didn’t give a fig, unreel, still back at the ranch safely, shattered by the bumpy sea journeys but glad we made the effort, and it was an effort!!!!!

        ** I was fascinated listening to our driver “Devon” and later surfed the net to find out more about the history and goings on in Barbuda

and I came across a theses done on the Codringtons of Barbuda by a Margaret T. Tweedy, Birmingham University, an interesting read.        

This is the link:-        

Stunning Pink Sand beach

Stunning Pink Sand beach

https://etheses.bham.ac.uk/id/eprint/5356/5/Tweedy81MLitt.pdf

 

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