The Rovos Train

Sunday 28th December 2025

We have to be out of our room for 1100hrs so no rush.   We’ve enjoyed our time at Ilala Lodge (https://www.ilalalodge.com/) and would recommend this place to anybody who is visiting the Victoria Falls, it’s the nearest hotel and walking to them is easy; coming-back though calls for a cab and they’re readily available outside the park.

Lovely cafe, with fantastic views
Inside the cafe

With our luggage stored in the hotel locker we jumped into a cab and headed out to the “Lookout Cafe”: (https://wildhorizons.co.za/experiences/the-lookout-cafe/) a “must-see” place recommended to us by both Janet and Margaret.   It was suggested we booked but took a chance, we were lucky there was a table fo two on the outer edge and though booked we had time to sit there and enjoy refreshments with a marvellous view until the people arrived; perhaps we should have booked!!!   Here there were zip-wires across the gorge and a bungee jumper, but we didn’t see any brave person have ago on the zip wire, though we did see some intrepid canoeists down in the fast running waters at the bottom of the gorge.  Well worth a visit.

View of gorge
View of steel bridge
Fantastic views people were bungy jumping

Our next stop, again recommended by Janet and Margaret was the Victoria Falls Hotel, (https://www.victoriafallshotel.com/about/history) a magnificent looking building built in 1904, originally built to house all the railway workers employed on Rhodes’ “The Cape to Cairo railway” and  the building of the Zambezi River Bridge, (https://www.siyabona.com/victoria-falls-bridge.html) the spot carefully selected by Cecil Rhodes was so passengers could get a good view of the falls and get the spray to cool them off at the same time!!,   Again we sat and enjoyed more refreshments, but this time I had a glass of bubbly whilst Christine enjoyed a avocado and chicken Bruschetta, 5* service by staff waiting at every corner all in colonial style uniforms; a super finally to our Victoria Falls Experience in Zimbabwe: formally Rhodesia.

Victoria falls hotel
Gardens Of Victoria Falls Hotel

Originally the hotel said we would walk over to the station, literally just over the road, accompanied by one of their chaps taking the luggage.   Walking back from the Victoria Falls Hotel we popped into the station to get the “low-down”, but it was completely dead though we did speak to someone who told us the train reverses back onto the station around 3.45 to 4.00 for boarding; not wishing to spend a hour or so on an empty platform, elected to sit in the cool of our hotel.   After some time we asked the receptionist what time their chap was going to “walk” us over the road only for him to look “blank” but soon “got-a-grip” of the situation and contacted their activities office.   Upon his return he assured us all was under control and a car was coming to pick us up and take us to the Rovos train departure point and “their” chap was coming with us to move our luggage; that’s better, Janet would never have left it to chance!!!  The car took us straight back to the Victoria Falls Hotel where there was a lectern and a red carpet to welcome us and to check us in; that’s more like it!!!   We were then escorted to a reception room, nearly full by now of the passengers all enjoying “canapés and bubbly”oh dear we should have come earlier!!!

Once everybody had arrived the train manager gave us the lowdown on how things worked and stressed there is “no” WiFi aboard, then called our names in small groups where we were escorted to the train by our group’s concierge; ours was a nice young lady called “Bronwyn”. As we boarded we passed a local dance group wishing us “happy travels”.

Dinning car

Our “suite” is of a good size including a shower room; far bigger and more spacious that the train journeys we took in the USA!!!   Once unpacked and sufficient space to store our cases it was time to get “dressed” for dinner; we were reminded during the brief, “Jackets, collar and tie” for the men so having carried my suit etc around for four weeks, it now came out of the case!!

One smart chappie, although the tie had come off!

The length of this train, with two locos to pull it at breathtaking speed of 30kph (18mph)!!!, is “500-meters”, and we are in the first passenger coach, there are two dining cars in the middle and the observation car at the rear with an actual “bar”, so this is where we ended up for an aperitif; a round trip of 1km😩.  We did pass two lounge cars but didn’t realise there was bar services available there.

Dinning car will be full up soon

The dinner “gong” went sharp at 1930hrs so we all “scurried” to the restaurant cars and found a seat.   Tonight we had a four course meal paired with four South African wines, all very enjoyable.  When we checked in at the beginning we were asked if we had any dietary requirements to which Christine mentioned she didn’t like nuts, but stressed this was not an allergy, she doesn’t like them.  When we were settling in our compartment, there was a knock on the door and there were 5-people who asked to step inside.  There was the head chef, a couple of other chefs and two kitchen assistants all wanting to “clarify” the “nut” situation; as they were leaving I “through” out in passing that I wasn’t very keen on avocados, but it didn’t appear to register, they were too concerned about nuts!!!!

Wine pairing on every course no wonder we are fat!

In the dining room our waiter brought the first course and said “Mrs Page, no nuts, correct?”; then turned to me and confirmed no avocado; how on earth did they know that, especially as none of the tables were allocated, we could have been sitting anywhere!?!?!?

The meal was superb, not too much, just the right amount and paired with the different wines, faultless.   Before we left the dining cars the train manager briefed us about tomorrow’s safari and the 0500hrs knock on the door.   We’ve had marvellous safaris and great experiences up to now, and also a little tired of 0500 wake-up calls, so made the decision to skip this one.   By now we were the only two left in our dining car but coming from the other car was laughter and the sound of partying so up’t and headed in there.   As we approached I made a remark and were immediately asked to join them for a night cap, and we did.   They were a jolly, raucous lot of South Africans, but two lived in Romsey, Hampshire.  We were all gently asked to move into the next car, a lounge as they needed to prep the dining car for breakfast, naturally we did and ordered more drinks.   Soon after midnight we all said our good byes and headed off to bed .

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