A trek in the Jungle

Saturday 27th April 2013

Yet again we were waiting for the alarm to go off at 6 am this morning, although rather than an alarm, it was a music across the tannoy system followed by a reminder breakfast would be served at 6.30 am.  Being awake before the alarm we had time to enjoy a cup of tea on the sundeck and watch the sun come up, very good.

Following breakfast we all mustered below on A Deck when we embarked into our canoe, this manoeuvre was done as the ship was travelling along the river, with the canoe tied up alongside.

Pushing us of the sandbanks again!

Pushing us of the sandbanks again!

We had a pleasant ride in the motorised canoe, getting stuck on the sand bar only once when the guide and the attendant had to get into the water to push us off.

After landing we started our jungle trek, to the Panayacu (Piranha River) , stopping to photo this bug or that leaf, and on one occasion a foot print in the mud! after about half an hour we

Our guide had just spotted some monkeys

Our guide had just spotted some monkeys

got into another but smaller canoe which had to be paddled, thankfully not by us.

After about an hour and a half at looking at numerous species of birds, distant monkeys high in the trees, butterflies etc., etc., we got out of the canoe and started another trek. Again after photographing everything that moved or didn’t, we arrived at a

The tower we climbed

The tower we climbed

30 metre tower.  Now we did know about this tower but when we got to the bottom, it looked very high and steep and as one of us had to look after the bags I volunteered of course!!  I wasn’t too bothered as I had been up to the rainforest canopy in Australia and that was via a cable

The group before we climbed to the top of tower

The group before we climbed to the top of tower

car, anyway they all started the climb. Sometime later Christine was the first to come down then the rest followed at short intervals, and we all went back to our paddle canoe for more wandering through the swamps, photographing,

At the top we saw this owl which looked like the tree trunk at first

At the top we saw this owl which looked like the tree trunk at first

birds, trees, plants etc., and then the highlight we came across a Black Cayman, it looks like a small Alligator.  He or she lay very still but kept his/her beady eye on us, waiting to see if we made a false move.  Our canoe drifted slowly towards his/her, and we

Black Cayman hiding

Black Cayman hiding

came within touching distance, needless to say no hands went outside the boat.

We were hoping to see the unusual pink river dolphins but alas none were home. oh dear what a disappointment!

Next stop a bar-b-q lunch in a clearing, very nice though poor Christine had been suffering with tummy pains so was happy to find a suitable place to carry out her business.

One of the many strange tree roots in the jungle

One of the many strange tree roots in the jungle

After lunch the party went off for another trek in the jungle, and no doubt would be photographing anything and everything, Christine and I had a lay down instead.

The trekking party duly returned after  a little more than an hour, and judging by the comments we did not miss much.  So back to our canoe for the return journey seeing much of what we had seen before. Ninety minutes later we left our canoe to trek overland back to our motorized canoe waiting on the Napo River to take us back to the boat the Manatee, moored up stream on another bank.

Back on board for showers etc, although Christine’s tummy is still poorly.  As things are at present we will stay aboard tomorrow. I actually think this will be nice as we were looking forward to cruising the Amazon and going ashore for different interesting visits, but today lasted from 07.15 – 16.45 , nine and half hours in the hot sun, maybe this has also contributed to Christine feeling bad. Anyway, after much deliberation  Christine went to bed, and I went to dinner, I also arranged to change the early morning call from the ‘Heidi Hi’ over the tannoy system to a tap on the door for those who wanted it.

Today was the perfect day for Botanists, Lepidopterologist, Ornithologists, and Entomologists, but us mere mortals who like watching action activities we were quite bored. Like our friends says unlike ABC (Another bloody church) we had MBJ (more bloody jungle).

 

 

 

 

Posted in Ecuador | Leave a comment

Manatee Explorer

Friday 26th April 2013

Another early start, we are getting accustomed to them now; we beat the alarm again, quick wash, packed the rest of our case, and down for breakfast at 6 am.  We paid the bill to be told we were coming back here, which is a shame, cos not the best of Hotels, but we asked for a bigger room which he said we could!

Our guide was waiting, he loaded our cases, and back to Quito airport, we were checked in by another guide who apologised for the mix up yesterday, and has offered us a free tour on 29/4/2013, which we have accepted.

On Napa River with guide heading for boat

On Napa River with guide heading for boat

The plane was late arriving, so we did not arrive on the Napo River until 11 am, but wow, we are in the jungle, we are so excited.

We boarded the motorized canoe, and we were off, we were heading for the Yasuni National Park where we would join the Manatee Explorer deep into the Amazon Jungle. We spent one

Stopped to deliver some rice to drivers daughter

Stopped to deliver some rice to drivers daughter

and a half hours on the canoe; there are only five of us on the trip, so it looks as though it could be fun, although one of the other guests was reading Biography of Jerusalem, the other lady with her daughter works with the Missionary in Quito! So watch this space.  The river was very shallow in places, and we went aground once, but a bit of rocking we were off again.  It has not rained for three days, so the water levels have really fallen.

Manatee Explorer

Manatee Explorer

We boarded the Manatee and we were given our cabins, ours is called ‘Monkey’, the boat needs a bit updating,   but it is fine, and we have an en-suite, always important at our age.  We have a bottle of champagne on ice with two glasses, to celebrate our honeymoon, and apparently we have another one for tomorrow, our Agent has given us one,

Geoff on top deck

Geoff on top deck

and the ship the other, really chuffed about that.

We had lunch which was a very interesting starter, with palm stalks, chilli, onion, and you can add banana chips and popcorn, it was actually very nice, for main we had pork with nuts, so I passed on that, Geoff said it was lovely, they gave me some beef which was very tough, but editable, banana passion fruit, it

The river is like the M1 transporting lorries etc up and down

The river is like the M1 transporting lorries etc up and down

looked like a banana outside, but passion fruit inside, very good.

The afternoon was spent just lazing around whilst cruising down the river, the sun is out, and it is very pleasant. We have

Parking for the night, not sure how we get off

Parking for the night, not sure how we get off

now come to a stop on the river, the parking was very interesting, because where the water has receded, the canes have fallen in the water, not sure how we are getting off, but sure they will work it out.

Sunset on River Napo

Sunset on River Napo

Later we had a talk on our evenings walk through the jungle, we took the canoe and went up river for about fifteen minutes, we landed on shore, and started walking in the jungle,
Geoff just did not take this seriously, he wanted tigers and monkeys, not beetles and spiders, it was quite funny, we saw a

Can't remember name!!

Can’t remember name!!

baby toucan who was not happy to be woken up, also a tarantula, well I saw its legs at it scurried down its hole, we saw tiny frogs, and lots of funny little

There was a tarantula down there somewhere!

There was a tarantula down there somewhere!

creatures, but suffice to say my camera is not good enough to show you.

It is either full moon or very close, it was a stunning ride back in the canoe, we boarded to be greeted with some funny drink, and prunes wrapped in pastry.

At dinner tonight we had a funny sort of soup, followed by a piece of steak, then a guava fruit, very good, we also opened the champagne and shared it with everyone.

Have to go now as we have to be up early in the morn

Posted in Ecuador | Leave a comment

Quito

Thursday 25th April We woke up after a fairly good night’s sleep but in my case quite sore; I don’t think I have slept in such a hard bed.  Still, we slowly got up, showered, though the water was either very hot or cold, and so to breakfast which was a bit of a shambles, not quite what we have been experiencing ’till now. Coffee un-drinkable, Christine’s tea cold and looked as if it had a second hand tea bag in!!! So after a few words, Christine had hot tea with 2 new tea bags delivered, and I swapped this poor imitation for coffee to Camille

View of Volcano in distance

View of Volcano in distance

tea, so all was OK in the end. This is not my sort of hotel I have to say so we won’t be back.

Farming in the middle of a volcano

Farming in the middle of a volcano

1000 hrs we were waiting in the lobby when our guide/Driver arrived.  He was a very pleasant chap and immediately we realised he had a sense of humour, and spoke very good English, that was a good start   Firstly he gave us a little background and history to Ecuador which I found interesting but Christine switched off, history is not one of her strong subjects! Quito lies in a valley and was started in the 15 hundreds by the Spanish conquistadors and today is stretches 65 Kms from north to south and approx 8 Kms east to west and It has a population a little under 4 million and lays on and south of the equator.  In fact Quito means centre of world.  Before the Spaniards invaded and colonised Ecuador, as well as most of South America, the dominant civilisation were the Inca’s, as we knew from Peru, however, when excavating a valley several years ago, they discovered some wood and sent it back to the States for carbon dating, it appears there was civilisation here 3,000 years BC. So we were off on our way, firstly to a huge volcanic crater North of the city, just in the northern hemisphere, it has been created into a sort of national park.  We crossed the equator several times during the morning as will be described later.  Ecuador including the Galapagos have a total of 55 volcanoes, most dormant though one of the ones on the outskirts of Quito erupted as recently as 1990, fortunately there is a small valley between that volcano and Quito so the lava was held back though the city was completely covered in ash, sounds like a lucky escape.

Tools that were used

Tools that were used

Angel, our guide, then took us to a very interesting museum, Christine was a little sceptical about visiting a museum however once we arrived she was happy.  This museum was mainly about some Amazon tribes and the Equator.  I won’t bore you about the tribes, just to say I wouldn’t like to meet any on a dark night in the Jungle.  The museum guide showed us a couple of shrunken heads, quite amazing and several hundred years old but well preserved, even down to some nasal hairs still in place!  Anyway the other part of the

Standing on the Equator, I was in the North and Geoff in the South

Standing on the Equator, I was in the North and Geoff in the South

tour was all about the equatorial line running straight through this museum.  Naturally we had ‘photos of us straddling the line, Christine in the northern hemisphere with me in the southern, etc etc.  But none of us in the museum tour party realised just how immediate things changed either side of the line.  One simple example was water flowing out of a tub.  We all know that in the north it goes down clockwise and south anti clockwise but on the line it goes straight down but when you move this tub only about 1 meter, the northern or southern pull takes effect.  This neutrality was also demonstrated by the guide firstly with

Balancing an egg on a nail

Balancing an egg on a nail

balancing an un-cooked egg on top of an ordinary nail, none of us managed though it!  Also, walking along the equatorial line, none of us could keep straight as the two opposing forces were causing us to fall off balance though but if you do it away from this line, no problem and there were other examples demonstrated.  I have to say this visit was not only a fun experience, but it was quite an eye opener.   We were also lucky with the weather, the sky was clear and blue so we could also

Burial site

Burial site

see the only volcano in the world that has the equator going straight through the middle and to make it easier to pick out, it still had snow on top. The original inhabitants had the equator marked where they thought it should be and lived by the Calendar that this position of the “centre of the earth” line produced.  They were

Calender

Calender

experts in studying the sun and other astronautical events until a Frenchman arrived with his modern measuring equipment in 1735 and said the actual line was further south.  In 1990, using GPS they calculated the line was actually 189 meters further north from where the French thought it was, not bad you may think, however where GPS said it was, was exactly where the ancient tribes had it in the first place, they knew a thing or two!

Winged Virgin Mary

Winged Virgin Mary

Next to the top of a hill with a huge statue of the Virgin Mary but with a difference, here she had wings and was holding a chain with a crocodile on the end.  This was very symbolic to the majority of Catholic locals when  built and it did afford us

View of Old Town Quito from top

View of Old Town Quito from top

very good views of just how sprawling Quito is from this vantage point. Now we went down into the old town where we had to park the car in a multi storey car park and travel on foot, fortunately it was fairly flat and though we were on the equator, not too hot.

Plaza

Plaza

We walked around the original Plaza laid down by the Spaniards; this was surrounded by the Presidents palace, the Archbishops Palace, a Basilica and modernist government offices and a very nice looking hotel where I wish

Plaza

Plaza

we had been booked into!!!!

We then went into the obligatory

Church

Church

church, we went in because we thought we had to but once in, wow!  This Jesuit Church took 160 years to complete and it was covered inside from the top of the high dome down to the floor in either gold leaf or original paintings, no

Inside church we were not allowed to take photos!

Inside church we were not allowed to take photos!

wonder it cost us $3 each to enter and the security was everywhere. We then strolled down through these old and in some areas original cobbled streets to a local restaurant for lunch. Ecuador Quito 059 I was hell bent on having guinea pig, like Peru, a delicacy in Ecuador, I even persuaded Christine to have some.  It was nice, a little fatty; it reminded me of a suckling pig we had a couple of years ago in Spain.  We have tried it now so no need to have it again. Back to the multi Storey car park then returned to our hotel after a very interesting and enjoyable day that was not all about visiting Churches.  Angel had done us proud and he was never pushing us to hurry yet this 5 hour tour which took a bit longer seemed to go very quickly, hence we treated him to lunch When we arrived back in our room our laundry was waiting so we started to pack ready for leaving the hotel tomorrow at 0630 hrs, ouch!!!!

Posted in Ecuador | Leave a comment

Lima to Quito

Wednesday 24th April

A nice leisurely breakfast followed probably our best night’s sleep, helped by being back at sea level.  Our showers again flooded the bathroom floor this morning but for an airport hotel it was fine.

Heading across the air bridge to the airport terminal we asked a airport guy the way to the check-in desks and was sent the wrong way!!! We eventually found them after going out of the terminal and back in another door.

Good airport, through formalities and security with ease, boarded LAN flight as scheduled, very comfortable with snack and hot drink served and arrived at Quito (Ecuador) a little early.  This is a new airport, very smart but very inefficient.  Queuing to get through immigration was a nightmare, it would have been OK if they had opened all the booths up, still at least we didn’t have to wait for our bags, they were on the carousel waiting for us! We then had to queue again whilst everybody’s bags etc went through another x ray machine before we were eventually met by our Driver who drove us to our hotel La Rabida: an interesting hotel more of a Bed and Breakfast/Guest house, Christine likes it, it reminds her of her own Canterbury Hotel, I am not so sure, still we are here and that’s it.

This evening we have been messed about with our tour for tomorrow, so rather than worry about, we have booked another private city tour and will sort it out on our return with our agents.

Posted in Ecuador | Leave a comment

Lake Titicaca

View from our bedroom window

View from our bedroom window

Early start, we set the alarm but I was awake before it 5.30 am, decided to get up, looked out of the window, to see this beautiful view of Lake Titicaca, lovely and

Guinea pigs playing on  the lawn

Guinea pigs playing on the lawn

tranquil, with what I thought originally was rabbits but in fact were guinea pigs running around on the grass.

We packed our bags and went down for breakfast, we are heading out on the lake this morning, and being picked up at 7.15 am.  We

Paying our entrance fee

Paying our entrance fee

left our cases at reception, as we are flying to Quito tonight.  Think we will both feel a bit better at a lower altitude. Arrived at boat, boarded, when Lou and Nigel arrived, so we had another good old chin wag, whilst the speed boat was heading for one of the Reed Islands called Uros. After a short time we had to slow down, and go to a tax office on

Leaving the entrance to the Reed Islands

Leaving the entrance to the Reed Islands

the water, there the guys had to barter for entrance to the Reed Islands,  there are 60 Islands all together, and the Uros Indians live here, it is a fascinating place, there home and most of the things they use are all made out of the reeds.  We disembarked on to the

Two ladies singing a song to us

Two ladies singing a song to us

platform of reeds, and had a short talk on the Islands and also met the President of the community, we were then give an opportunity to go

Reed boat

Reed boat

on the reed boats, we clambered on, the one we went on was a double decker, but they had others that were just single, this one had two men at the back paddling.  Before we left to of the ladies sang a couple of songs to us,

Demonstrated how to cut the reeds, and also  gave us some to taste

Demonstrated how to cut the reeds, and also gave us some to taste

we then made our way around another Island, and they demonstrated how to cut the reeds, and what you could make with them.  Also they had some lovely embroidery, but they wanted £25 for them, which seemed a bit expensive to me.

One of the stalls

One of the stalls

When we arrived back all the stalls were made up, and obviously they wanted to sell their wares, we bought a wind chime and a bracelet, just to remind us of the time we

One of the bedrooms

One of the bedrooms

spent there. We were shown where they live and sleep, and also cook their meals

We moved onto another Island which they called the Commercial Island, Isla Santa

Commercial Island where you could buy  gifts and drinks

Commercial Island where you could buy gifts and drinks

Maria they had more stalls there, and a coffee bar, so we tried the local bread and had a drink.  We moved back to the boat, and headed for

Geoff looking good!!

Geoff looking good!!

another Island, Geoff had to rub cream on his nose as it was getting burnt, he looked really daft!!

It took us over an hour to get to the next Island which was called Taquile, members of

Walking up the hill

Walking up the hill

the self supporting Aymara community met us, in their colourful island costumes and showed us around the Island. Before we came we asked if the Island was hilly, and the guide said NO, it might take you 20 – 30 minutes to walk around, well the hill was almost straight up,

Entrance gate

Entrance gate

and remembering that we are at a very high altitude 3800-3950 meters, we were all struggling, Geoff was determined to do it, so we were not last, but oh boy it was hard work.

We nearly got to the top where we stopped for lunch, typical of

The locals bring the soup out

The locals bring the soup out

the Island, we had some soup, and then trout, it wasn’t bad, we then had the drink of the Island which was a mixture of herbs, which Geoff drank, I do miss my drop of Typhoo!! The Islanders showed us how the knitted their hats, and wove some belts etc., just as we were leaving they performed a couple of dances for us.

We then had an option, whether we continued or went back to

It was not worth climbing that hill just to see this!!

It was not worth climbing that hill just to see this!!

the boat, Geoff declined with two others, and I went on, quite  frankly I think I would have enjoyed the boat more, we struggled to the top, then Lou Nigel and myself meandered down, not much to see, and a lot of effort getting up to it, we called it a padding to make the day longer, we would have preferred to spend more time in the Reed Island.

We had another hour on the boat which was lovely, before we     Christine always happy on the waterdisembarked and went back to the Hotel to collect our cases, we relaxed for an hour, before they collected us to go to the airport. The ride there was very hairy with over-taking when traffic was coming towards us, we also had to go through Juliaca again where the market was so near the train, we meandered around the little streets, the roads were terrible and very narrow, lots of tut tuts getting in the way, we also went on a peaje which was novel.

We are travelling with LAN, and they are very good, very professional, we arrived in Lima about 10.30 pm, walked across the road and got into our Hotel, we both had showers, and managed to flood the bathroom, somehow the water is escaping, we fell into bed and fast asleep.

Posted in Peru | Leave a comment

Cusco to Puno on the Andean Explorer

Monday 22nd April

Today we are heading to lake Titicaca on the Andean Explorer, this is the Peruvian equivalent to the Orient Express so we had an early start, pick up 0715 hrs.  We set the alarm for 0600 hrs but both of us were awake before 0530 hrs waiting for the alarm to go off so got up, showered, packed then down for a leisurely breakfast.

Settling in

Settling in

We were in the lobby at the appointed hour where Eva, our guide, was waiting with the private car to take us to the train station.  Eva organised our baggage to be sent to the guards van and pointed us in the right direction.  We boarded by 0730 hrs and settled in before departure at 0800 hrs.

This train is very similar to the European Orient Express to look at, the interior is in keeping with it, separate sets IMG_2457and we had an individual table, very nice.

Christine  looking very very pleased with herself

Christine looking very very pleased with herself

The sun is shining, the scenery is stunning and all’s well with the world.

We took a walk to the rear of the train to look out of the observation car and walking along another carriage we bumped into a couple we had met on several occasions as they, though not on our tour  are generally running in parallel with us.  After exchanging a few

Observation car

Observation car

words we introduced ourselves and then Lulu and Nigel  joined us in the observation car, where we chatted, got on well and also found a lot of common ground.  It appears they lived about 10 Kim’s from us in Spain, knew our favourite haunts such as, Rebate and Clock House though not the Steak House.  But it didn’t end there, Nigel was the MD of a division of a well known PLC that also had a major Logistics arm and it was amusing discussing a number of folks we had both known in the past.  Like us, Nigel and Lulu have retired, they make it their business to have at least 4 holidays a year, we on the other hand try and have one long holiday!

Snow capped mountains

Snow capped mountains

Standing in the observation car was amazing, watching this dramatic

River meandering along valley

River meandering along valley

A local Weir

A local Weir

scenery with a backdrop of snow capped mountains and brilliant sunshine, in fact we had to move out of the direct sunlight as we felt ourselves burning.  Being up about 3,800 meters, the air is thin therefore the Sun is stronger, maybe we should have put sun block on. We were also given a very un usual drink, not too sure what was in it but it was certainly alcoholic and very nice, well I enjoyed both Christine’s  and mine!!!

Returning back to our table after another “floor show”

Th Cabaret on the train!

Th Cabaret on the train!

and more “Pan Pipers” followed by the customary hard sell, the scenery flattened out and we were travelling on a plateau with the mountains now in the background, not quite so spectacular, so Christine and I started  play few hands of crib ’till lunch was served.

Whilst playing the train stopped.  This line being a single track, Peru Rail have to be spot on with their timings, and low and behold this stop was a passing place and no sooner had we come to a halt, that the Andean Explorer traveling in the opposite came along side.  Now not only was this pretty good timing, it didn’t end there.  Prior to this stop our tables had been laid for lunch and bread rolls handed out in some quarters when we noticed a lot of to-ing and frowning between the trains, we also noticed the folks in the other train had finished eating, you could see that through the windows, but didn’t take too much notice and carried on playing crib.

Our train started again and

Geoff Tucking in

Geoff Tucking in

then lunch was being served when it dawned on us there were many more waiters/waitress than before.  Peru Rail, not only slick with their timings, are utilising their staff to maximum efficiency.  They fed the first train then moved across to ours and fed us, UK could take a leaf out of this!

Lunch was interesting, soup followed by grilled Trout, there was   another choice but we settled for this, we must have enjoyed it as we cleared our plates. We also had one glass of wine included in our ticket, though there was a pay bar in the observation car.

By now the plateau was fertile and much farming albeit quite backward in places and modern in others. We saw many Lamas

Lamas grazing

Lamas grazing

 

Assorted breeds of Cows

Assorted breeds of Cows

as well as cows and sheep with the odd Donkey thrown in for good luck. At places the railway travels along the Main Street of the villages we pass through with “Casey Jones” continually blowing the engine’s horns, drives you mad!

We then passed through one particular town called Juliaca,

Not in focus but the stalls were so close to the train

Not in focus but the stalls were so close to the train

quite large but the train tracks were lined with market stalls for about 3 miles, both sides, that in itself may not be unusual but, the fronts of these stalls were literally a cigarette paper away from the side of the train. The stall holders and any customers had to crawl into the stall itself.  Additionally to these stalls

Loads of rope and string on market stall

Loads of rope and string on market stall

were scrap dealers, second hand car parts, string and rope sellers and in between roads crossing the rail tracks with no barriers or anything.  I have to say this again reminded me of India.  We all thought this was all there was in Juiaca until we came out of this shanty part into a more prosperous area with car and truck main dealers such as Volvo, Honda and others, quite amazing.

Next came tea, a small roll, small sandwich, a kebab with 3 pieces of fruit and two chocolates, now you may think that mean but actually that was all we could manage.  This afternoon tea was was washed down with an odd cuppa, it was called a  “natural tea” I enjoyed it but Christine didn’t, so I had hers.

By now it was getting dark and we were approaching our destination, Puno. We arrived at 1820 hrs, having left at 0800 hrs in the morning, over 10 hours and covering 380 Kms or 236 miles yet the time passed very easily as most of the scenery was amazing.

After all the luggage was unloaded we were allowed off, collected our 4 pieces and as we walked into the station concourse, we saw our private guide waiting with Christine’s name on (that made her day!!!!) and we were whisked into our taxi.  5 minutes later we were in our hotel, not the best we have been in on this trip, we were certainly spoilt for the last 2 nights in a 5 star one but at least we are by lake Titicaca and our room looks over the lake.

Today was something we had been looking forward to, the Peruvian equivalent of the Orient Express traveling from Cusco to Puno and we both agree it was excellent.  An early night tonight as we are away at 0710 in the morning for excursions on the lake visiting floating villages etc.

Posted in Peru | Leave a comment