Oldies On Tour

View from our bedroom window

Early start, we set the alarm but I was awake before it 5.30 am, decided to get up, looked out of the window, to see this beautiful view of Lake Titicaca, lovely and

Guinea pigs playing on the lawn

tranquil, with what I thought originally was rabbits but in fact were guinea pigs running around on the grass.

We packed our bags and went down for breakfast, we are heading out on the lake this morning, and being picked up at 7.15 am.  We

Paying our entrance fee

left our cases at reception, as we are flying to Quito tonight.  Think we will both feel a bit better at a lower altitude. Arrived at boat, boarded, when Lou and Nigel arrived, so we had another good old chin wag, whilst the speed boat was heading for one of the Reed Islands called Uros. After a short time we had to slow down, and go to a tax office on

Leaving the entrance to the Reed Islands

the water, there the guys had to barter for entrance to the Reed Islands,  there are 60 Islands all together, and the Uros Indians live here, it is a fascinating place, there home and most of the things they use are all made out of the reeds.  We disembarked on to the

Two ladies singing a song to us

platform of reeds, and had a short talk on the Islands and also met the President of the community, we were then give an opportunity to go

Reed boat

on the reed boats, we clambered on, the one we went on was a double decker, but they had others that were just single, this one had two men at the back paddling.  Before we left to of the ladies sang a couple of songs to us,

Demonstrated how to cut the reeds, and also gave us some to taste

we then made our way around another Island, and they demonstrated how to cut the reeds, and what you could make with them.  Also they had some lovely embroidery, but they wanted £25 for them, which seemed a bit expensive to me.

One of the stalls

When we arrived back all the stalls were made up, and obviously they wanted to sell their wares, we bought a wind chime and a bracelet, just to remind us of the time we

One of the bedrooms

spent there. We were shown where they live and sleep, and also cook their meals

We moved onto another Island which they called the Commercial Island, Isla Santa

Commercial Island where you could buy gifts and drinks

Maria they had more stalls there, and a coffee bar, so we tried the local bread and had a drink.  We moved back to the boat, and headed for

Geoff looking good!!

another Island, Geoff had to rub cream on his nose as it was getting burnt, he looked really daft!!

It took us over an hour to get to the next Island which was called Taquile, members of

Walking up the hill

the self supporting Aymara community met us, in their colourful island costumes and showed us around the Island. Before we came we asked if the Island was hilly, and the guide said NO, it might take you 20 – 30 minutes to walk around, well the hill was almost straight up,

Entrance gate

and remembering that we are at a very high altitude 3800-3950 meters, we were all struggling, Geoff was determined to do it, so we were not last, but oh boy it was hard work.

We nearly got to the top where we stopped for lunch, typical of

The locals bring the soup out

the Island, we had some soup, and then trout, it wasn’t bad, we then had the drink of the Island which was a mixture of herbs, which Geoff drank, I do miss my drop of Typhoo!! The Islanders showed us how the knitted their hats, and wove some belts etc., just as we were leaving they performed a couple of dances for us.

We then had an option, whether we continued or went back to

It was not worth climbing that hill just to see this!!

the boat, Geoff declined with two others, and I went on, quite  frankly I think I would have enjoyed the boat more, we struggled to the top, then Lou Nigel and myself meandered down, not much to see, and a lot of effort getting up to it, we called it a padding to make the day longer, we would have preferred to spend more time in the Reed Island.

We had another hour on the boat which was lovely, before we     disembarked and went back to the Hotel to collect our cases, we relaxed for an hour, before they collected us to go to the airport. The ride there was very hairy with over-taking when traffic was coming towards us, we also had to go through Juliaca again where the market was so near the train, we meandered around the little streets, the roads were terrible and very narrow, lots of tut tuts getting in the way, we also went on a peaje which was novel.

We are travelling with LAN, and they are very good, very professional, we arrived in Lima about 10.30 pm, walked across the road and got into our Hotel, we both had showers, and managed to flood the bathroom, somehow the water is escaping, we fell into bed and fast asleep.

Monday 22nd April

Today we are heading to lake Titicaca on the Andean Explorer, this is the Peruvian equivalent to the Orient Express so we had an early start, pick up 0715 hrs.  We set the alarm for 0600 hrs but both of us were awake before 0530 hrs waiting for the alarm to go off so got up, showered, packed then down for a leisurely breakfast.

Settling in

We were in the lobby at the appointed hour where Eva, our guide, was waiting with the private car to take us to the train station.  Eva organised our baggage to be sent to the guards van and pointed us in the right direction.  We boarded by 0730 hrs and settled in before departure at 0800 hrs.

This train is very similar to the European Orient Express to look at, the interior is in keeping with it, separate sets and we had an individual table, very nice.

Christine looking very very pleased with herself

The sun is shining, the scenery is stunning and all’s well with the world.

We took a walk to the rear of the train to look out of the observation car and walking along another carriage we bumped into a couple we had met on several occasions as they, though not on our tour  are generally running in parallel with us.  After exchanging a few

Observation car

words we introduced ourselves and then Lulu and Nigel  joined us in the observation car, where we chatted, got on well and also found a lot of common ground.  It appears they lived about 10 Kim’s from us in Spain, knew our favourite haunts such as, Rebate and Clock House though not the Steak House.  But it didn’t end there, Nigel was the MD of a division of a well known PLC that also had a major Logistics arm and it was amusing discussing a number of folks we had both known in the past.  Like us, Nigel and Lulu have retired, they make it their business to have at least 4 holidays a year, we on the other hand try and have one long holiday!

Snow capped mountains

Standing in the observation car was amazing, watching this dramatic

River meandering along valley

A local Weir

scenery with a backdrop of snow capped mountains and brilliant sunshine, in fact we had to move out of the direct sunlight as we felt ourselves burning.  Being up about 3,800 meters, the air is thin therefore the Sun is stronger, maybe we should have put sun block on. We were also given a very un usual drink, not too sure what was in it but it was certainly alcoholic and very nice, well I enjoyed both Christine’s  and mine!!!

Returning back to our table after another “floor show”

Th Cabaret on the train!

and more “Pan Pipers” followed by the customary hard sell, the scenery flattened out and we were travelling on a plateau with the mountains now in the background, not quite so spectacular, so Christine and I started  play few hands of crib ’till lunch was served.

Whilst playing the train stopped.  This line being a single track, Peru Rail have to be spot on with their timings, and low and behold this stop was a passing place and no sooner had we come to a halt, that the Andean Explorer traveling in the opposite came along side.  Now not only was this pretty good timing, it didn’t end there.  Prior to this stop our tables had been laid for lunch and bread rolls handed out in some quarters when we noticed a lot of to-ing and frowning between the trains, we also noticed the folks in the other train had finished eating, you could see that through the windows, but didn’t take too much notice and carried on playing crib.

Our train started again and

Geoff Tucking in

then lunch was being served when it dawned on us there were many more waiters/waitress than before.  Peru Rail, not only slick with their timings, are utilising their staff to maximum efficiency.  They fed the first train then moved across to ours and fed us, UK could take a leaf out of this!

Lunch was interesting, soup followed by grilled Trout, there was   another choice but we settled for this, we must have enjoyed it as we cleared our plates. We also had one glass of wine included in our ticket, though there was a pay bar in the observation car.

By now the plateau was fertile and much farming albeit quite backward in places and modern in others. We saw many Lamas

Lamas grazing

Assorted breeds of Cows

as well as cows and sheep with the odd Donkey thrown in for good luck. At places the railway travels along the Main Street of the villages we pass through with “Casey Jones” continually blowing the engine’s horns, drives you mad!

We then passed through one particular town called Juliaca,

Not in focus but the stalls were so close to the train

quite large but the train tracks were lined with market stalls for about 3 miles, both sides, that in itself may not be unusual but, the fronts of these stalls were literally a cigarette paper away from the side of the train. The stall holders and any customers had to crawl into the stall itself.  Additionally to these stalls

Loads of rope and string on market stall

were scrap dealers, second hand car parts, string and rope sellers and in between roads crossing the rail tracks with no barriers or anything.  I have to say this again reminded me of India.  We all thought this was all there was in Juiaca until we came out of this shanty part into a more prosperous area with car and truck main dealers such as Volvo, Honda and others, quite amazing.

Next came tea, a small roll, small sandwich, a kebab with 3 pieces of fruit and two chocolates, now you may think that mean but actually that was all we could manage.  This afternoon tea was was washed down with an odd cuppa, it was called a  “natural tea” I enjoyed it but Christine didn’t, so I had hers.

By now it was getting dark and we were approaching our destination, Puno. We arrived at 1820 hrs, having left at 0800 hrs in the morning, over 10 hours and covering 380 Kms or 236 miles yet the time passed very easily as most of the scenery was amazing.

After all the luggage was unloaded we were allowed off, collected our 4 pieces and as we walked into the station concourse, we saw our private guide waiting with Christine’s name on (that made her day!!!!) and we were whisked into our taxi.  5 minutes later we were in our hotel, not the best we have been in on this trip, we were certainly spoilt for the last 2 nights in a 5 star one but at least we are by lake Titicaca and our room looks over the lake.

Today was something we had been looking forward to, the Peruvian equivalent of the Orient Express traveling from Cusco to Puno and we both agree it was excellent.  An early night tonight as we are away at 0710 in the morning for excursions on the lake visiting floating villages etc.

Having had a brilliant nights sleep in our 7′ bed, we showered and went to breakfast, the

Reception

Our huge bed!

Hotel is amazing, it was an old Inca House, very easy to get lost, it twists and turns, but we found the restaurant, which has a quadrangle off where you can sit and enjoy the ambience of everything.

Soldiers leading the parade

Soldiers goose stepping

After breakfast we wondered down to the local square, and the

Native costume

had a parade going on, not sure why, but it was brilliant, most of the industries were represented, dancers in native costumes, and then all the school children, there were marching bands, soldiers, it seemed as the whole town was there,

Construction workers drilling

fantastic atmosphere, Geoff had his shoes cleaned by a young boy, and I bought a pair of sunglasses, obviously fake, but who cares I needed them.

We met some people who seem to be following us everywhere, and they had problems with their room last night, so glad we were upgraded, apparently they have no windows, so not comfortable at all, we have lovely views, will have to pinch myself again.

Outside the Cathedral

Back to the Hotel in time to meet our guide Eva, we are touring around Cusco in a group today, we first went to Basilica Catedral, which apparently was the 6th best in the world, we were not allowed to take photographs, but there was gold leaf everywhere, it was amazing, we had the story of how the Incas and the Spanish integrated into society, it was

The original wall built by the Inca’s at the Sun Temple

very interesting.

We then walked through the town to see their Sun Temple Qorikancha, apart from the bits where the Incas had built, we

Some of the paintings inside the Sun Temple

both found it was a bit boring.

Back on the coach we then went to the National Park it was called Saqsayhuamán which means zigzag, this was stones bigger than Stone

Some of the smaller stones

Henge, all piled on top of each other, and you could see the sacred animals included in the stones, we think you need a bit of imagination for this, but they were sort

The biggest stone in the Park with Fernando our guide in front

of there.

We walked through this lovely area, and boarded the coach again, where we went to Tipon which is a temple of water, we had both had enough by then so we and several others stayed on the coach. Later we stopped at a craft shop, where we also stayed put, we are knackered.

The walls all zigzaged along the path

We did enjoy the day, but with the altitude being 3800 meters, we are still struggling a bit, so we decided to stay in the Hotel and have a meal, which was lovely.

Then to bed as we have an early start tomorrow.

Saturday 20th April 2013

Hooray, today we could have a lay-in, no rush, mainly due to the local agents making a slight change to our itinerary with an un-foreseen knock-on.  We were due to do the Machu Picchu Inca City  ruins today so that yesterday we had a nice day in and around the hotel enjoying the hot springs and 13 acres of tropical jungle

The “Jungle” garden at the Inkaterra

followed by a nice dinner and then today the visit, followed by lunch and the train back to Cusco.  So today we enjoyed the hot spring’s pool, re-negotiated last night’s missed dinner as lunch for today and sat in this beautiful garden surrounded by high mountains.  This beautiful hotel The Inkaterra, again with the Casitas (cabins)

Part of the 13 acresw

but unfortunately here

One of the Casitas set in this 13 acre jungle garden

there are many steps and of course, our cabin was at the top!!!! Still when we had climbed these steps and opened the door, the interior was superb.

So back to today; A leisurely breakfast was enjoyed whilst looking out onto mountains and  the very fast moving river

The fast flowing river below the Inkaterra Hotel

with the sun shining.  After a short time we donned our swimmers and went and enjoyed the hot spring pool,

The Hot Spring pools

very hot so had to keep popping into the cooler one for rest bite!!  We didn’t venture into the third one in the series as

The pool below the hot springs at the Inkaterra Hotel

that would have been too cold!

After about an hour, it was back to the room for a shower and pack.  We had to be out by 1100 hrs but managed to persuade them to extend, which they did by half an hour, generous

One of the many fountains in the Inkaterra Garden

or what.

Packed an out of our room by the appointed time we sat in this jungle garden playing crib until we went into launch around  1400 hrs, we enjoyed a three course lunch choosing local dishes, superb and

One of the many stalls in the market by the train station

washed it down with some very nice Peruvian white wine which I have to say was excellent, I must look out for it in the supermarkets, if it gets to Europe.

We eventually left this first class hotel and apart from all the steps, would fully recommend it to anyone.  The hotel organised for our bags to be taken to the train station for us,

The Railway Station at Manchu Picchu

so we meandered down carefree, and boarded the train Carriage A, seats 15/16, everything was allocated.

This return journey was certainly different, apart from the “trolley dolly” handing out snacks and drinks, (included in the fare) we were then subjected to a court type jester (that obviously meant something) then a fashion show.  The

The Court Jester

train attendants became models and displayed a number of local Peruvian outfits followed by the hard sell!  These clothes were very nice and probably all made from Alpaca wool, they were so soft. As we are struggling with case weight, we resisted temptation.

Now for the worst part of the journey; we had to leave the train and catch coaches for the last 1 1/2 hrs of the journey back to Cusco, we didn’t know why but had no choice.  Boy the driver must have thought he was in the Brazilian Grand Prix, how the coach stayed on all its wheels at times I don’t  know and overtaking was very reminiscent of Indian driving something coming, so what!  Still we arrived shaken but safely, to be met by our guide and  taken to this 5 star hotel; because we complained about our changes to the original program and then queried why they were changing our hotel, not only did they upgrade us they had also organised us a suite.  Is that good or what?

We arrived at our hotel and our mouthed dropped as you walk through the lobby that is reminiscent of an art gallery, paintings, yes paintings everywhere, I suspect there is a lot of history to this building, and we will have to find out more tomorrow.  We checked in and up to our suite where we were reunited with the cases we had to leave behind in the sacred valley. This suite has the biggest bed

That “Jumbo” bed

we have ever seen, you could get lost in it!!!!!

By this time we were exhausted so Christine did some “small’s” washing, we showered and went straight to bed, exhausted but very happy after a great time visiting Manchu Picchu and the surrounding area.

Friday 19^th April 2013

We are gradually getting acclimatised, but I was still awake before the alarm went off at 6.30 am, so we both got up, had a lovely lazy breakfast, and were ready to go by 7.45 am, we were collected from the Hotel and delivered to the train station in Ollantaytambo, another busy station, but very organised, we were told that our train was after the one waiting in the station, so we sat and watched it depart, shortly after ours arrived and we boarded, trouble was Geoff had only given me one ticket, and he had already boarded, but they let me on, then of course he had no seat number, so he took someone else’s seat, after a few words they agreed he could sit next to me.

Lovely comfortable train, with everyone having tables, and the views on the way to Machu Picchu were very spectacular, the river runs alongside the railway, and some of the mountains were covered in snow.  Whilst travelling the 90 minutes they served us with a roll, fresh fruit, and a drink, very civilised.

Inca settlement in the hills

On arriving at Aguas Calientes (hot springs) we met our guide named Sonia, she arranged for the bell boys to take our baggage to the Hotel where we were staying tonight.

Hair-pin bends on route to the Inca trail

We then walked to a bus which took us to Machu Picchu it was a 25 minute single track road, where at certain points other buses could pass,  8km of road that had lots of hairpin bends, with cobbles in most places, very bumpy, and we were glad to get off.

Young Pincchu in distance with urban houses in front

A visit to the famous archaeological site, no one quite knows the real history, but most agree it was built in the mid 15^th century by the inca emperor Pachacuti. Inca legend relates that Pachacuti ordered the

Beautiful day in Machu Picchu

construction of Machu Picchu to celebrate the defeat of a rival ethnic group called the Chancas.

The city was abandoned when due to the

Amazing site, the way they managed to build all those years ago

Spanish invaders the Inca Empire fell.

It was a fascinating trip, and although history goes over my head most of the time, I found it interesting.

We went up and down the steps, wandered through the houses, temples warehouses and central square, which made up the lost city.

Farming area with store rooms beyond

Marvelled at the way stones had been carved to fit, how did they do this all those years ago.

Later we left the site, and had lunch at the sanctuary restaurant, Pan Pipes were playing, before descending in the bus again, we then slowly walked through the town, until we arrived at our Hotel Inkaterra.

We were given our room which is very nice, but so many steps to get up to it, poor Geoff was struggling to breathe at the end, we tried to change rooms, but the Hotel is full, so we will just have to take it easy. When unpacking Geoff found his train ticket!!!

We did not feel like anything else to eat, with the high altitude, we are having trouble digesting food, and breathing, although at present we are only 2000 meters above sea level, tomorrow we will be 3800 meters, so we will have to take things easy.