Bites and Itches

Monday 20th January 2025

This morning we headed to Jolly Harbour to “hopefully” meet up with our friendly lady in the tour office and also to reconnoitre where the dive-boat leaves from as Martin has booked a two-dive boat trip and it has an 0800hrs start time tomorrow, hence our “reconnoitre”

Again upon arrival our “friendly lady” made us most welcome and to add you “our” comfort switched on her air-con.   We were enquiring about a catamaran that takes about 20-people and does snorkelling day trips to the reef and serves lunch.  We “eventually” came out of there having agreed to charter a catamaran for just the three of us with Captain Simon, the same fellow who owns the monohull we chartered when Captain Charlotte was on the helm the previous week with Lee and Sarah.   This happened after we had explained they need to improve their food offer: Watch this space!!!  

Having been “seduced” by our friendly lady, we decided lunch at home would be more appropriate so headed back.   En-route our snack lunch had turned out to be our main meal of the day so stopped off at the local supermarket for some “bits-n-bobs” to enable Christine to cook an excellent lunch.  

In between all our activities we have been in contact with a specialist tour operator in South Africa as we are planning a visit there in December so after lunch did some more research.  We had decided to visit Runaway beach later in the afternoon and stay to watch the sun go down.

Lovely evening

At the appropriate time we headed the beach, a one mile trip that takes at least 5-minutes!!! Again we found our special spot under the trees, next to a wooden table that has seen better days and established our “beach-head”; this is the same table we commandeered last time with Sarah and Lee but today we were brave, we moved it further onto the beach to be in the sun; a daunting task knowing how much maintenance it needs!!!  Anyway we moved it in one piece but sat on it with “caution”.

As usual the sea was excellent and the beach empty as we enjoyed several alcoholic beverages accompanied by nibbles trying to watch the sun going down, but thwarted as clouds appeared😡😡.  Have to try again another day.

It was dark when we drove back home and the usual pot-holes were harder to spot, so our 5-minute journey took 10-minutes!!!

Martin doing his business!

Whilst sitting on our verandah the price of being on the beach at dusk was becoming evident, both Christine and Martin were scratching and applying “Aloe-Vera” and other creams to calm their bites, fortunately I’m on a course of B12 so was un-affected 😂😂. The thing is, we thought it was mozzies but now wonder if it was sand flies as the bites became bigger; even the extra alcohol didn’t help!!!

Off to bed later with them scratching even bigger looking bites; oh dear what sort of night will we have????  Tomorrow we have to be away at 0715hrs in time for Martin’s appointment with the dive boat which means an alarm, unheard of on our holidays

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Martin’s First Day

Sunday 19th January 2025

Nothing special on today as Martin is looking forward to a rest after chasing around the US on business this last week or two and we are also happy to chill-out.

Though Martin has been here on a previous occasion some time ago, he was “cocooned” in a resort so our mission is to show him the real Antigua, such as “pot-holes” and much more including his first visit to Shirley Heights later today.

St.johns old town

Our first stop was Redcliffe Quay, the old part of St. Johns, down by the cruise ships and where the C&C wine bar and restaurant are, though unfortunately we were too early to indulge, they weren’t open!!

We next headed to Jolly Harbour to see our friendly Island Tour Shop lady, to organise some trips, but being Sunday, they were also closed; not having much success!!!

OK beach time, so headed back to Darkwood and this time success, our “private” parking space under some trees, on the edge of the beach was available and again this end of the beach was empty.   After a fair amount of time in the water we strolled up to the beach bar but this time avoided the “Banana Coladas” and had beers.

Back at base we showered etc., and waited for our pre-booked taxi to take us to Shirley Heights.   Junior wasn’t available today but had another very personable young man from the taxi firm driving us.

Darkwood Bay

Arriving around 1615hrs we were taken aback by the number of vehicles queuing up to get there, the queue was halfway down the hill, the driver had never seen it like that before!!!

English and Falmouth harbour

Upon entry this time we had a plan; Christine went and found space in a table, Martin went to get the drinks and I went to buy the meal tickets, and it worked, no stress or queueing.  Martin had never been to Shirley Heights before and this was a bit of a “baptism of fire”, so many people partying, the place was heaving, far more people than usual and the sound of the steel band all overwhelmed him we think!!!   As he said later, “I’ve done it now, no need to go again”!!!!

Fantastic sunset tonight

Our driver was waiting when we left and he drove us home with no “mishaps” this time.  A couple more nightcaps and we were off to bed

English and Falmouth harbour at night
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Martin Arrives

Saturday 18th January 2025

No rush today, a leisurely morning with some washing of sheets, ironing, making up Martin’s bed and not too much food and drink!!!, we prepared for the American Airlines flight from Miami to arrive in the afternoon.  Fortunately we were tracking the flight so won’t waste time hanging around as it is running 50-minutes late!!!

With Martin safely collected and in the car, we headed back to base where we enjoyed another meal prepared by Christine and then spent the rest of the evening chatting and catching up with “things”.   Martin’s holiday starts tomorrow

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Darkwood Beach

Friday 17th January, 2025

I am pleased to report Christine is getting better following a good nights rest and a fun, relaxing evening at Papa Zouk’s last night.  Today is our last morning together and since being told earlier in the week about a beach bar that offered “Banana Coladas”, Sarah had expressed a “need” to visit this bar on “Darkwoid Beach”, about 30-minutes away.

Lovely cooked breakfast

This morning, and to set everyone up for the day, Christine cooked a “full English”, no mean feat due to the limitations of the cooking facilities in this cottage. One example is the toaster: a four slice toaster but only one side in two of the slots work, quite a logistical nightmare trying to make four slices of toast!!!  Whilst cooking breakfast Lee and Sarah packed so that no time was wasted and we could max out beach time this morning.

Fabulous sandy beach

Clearing up after a first class breakfast we headed to Darkwood Beach, a pleasant, longish stretch of sand with two beach bars on it.   We managed to park at the edge of the sand and under a tree, so two steps and a hop we were in the water.   Whilst three of us were enjoying the not so gentle waves, Sarah went on a mission to find out which beach bar, if either!!, did the “Banana Coladas”.   Mission accomplished, the big one at the southern end.

After a struggle to get out and rescued by Lee, we headed off to the bar and ordered these “Banana Colada” cocktails.  At this point Christine had not decided what to have, the Pina version has coconut in, so that is a no-go-area so when they turned up, she had a sip and said “YES” to one; we were all amazed!!!

Two Pina,one banana collards lovely

The consensus after drinking them was disappointment, so Sarah and I ordered two “Pina Coladas” but guess what, Christine enjoyed them and had another; can you believe that???

By now time was marching on so headed back so Sarah and Lee could finish packing, shower and change before heading to the airport.   This, as always has been a good, fun week but fortunately not as hectic as the week we had together four years ago; I hope they weren’t disappointed.

When we returned back to base there, sitting on our veranda table was a brand spanking new toaster, wow we were amazed,  we didn’t think she was going to replace the old one on the basis her’s at home is also broken!!!

The final trip to the airport had a sting in the tail, fortuitously we had extra time and it was necessary, every road was blocked with traffic, couldn’t believe it, still we arrived well within their time constraints.   

After our good byes we headed back for a quiet night, no alcohol tonight or until Martin arrives tomorrow

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Lobster Night!

Thursday 16th January 2025

What an awful night.  Poor Christine’s bones are really painful, those buggies have an awful lot to answer for and she has now stated quite categorically and finally,  “never, never again” will she do an off-roading tour!!!   If the bones weren’t enough, it bucketed it down all night and as these buildings only have a thin timber roof, we heard every drop fall!!!  

Being their last day, we couldn’t ask them to hang around so Christine elected to stay back and rest whilst we headed off to Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour.    The rain was still chucking it down, the good news, it is warm rain😂😂 but the forecast didn’t look good  for much of the day.   Anyway we set off. English harbour is the other end of the island and once we had cleared St John’s, the roads looked remarkably dry; strange!!  And the nearer we got to Nelson’s Dockyard, the clearer the sky became, the rain had stopped😎😎

We split up, they carried on looking around, I found a coffee place and got chatting to a yacht skipper who had sailed over from Europe a couple of years ago and now lives on his boat for about 6-months cruising between the islands at will; this conversation together with the days sailing we did and naturally the blue sea and warm weather got me thinking; oh how I would like to get back into this way of life again.  We have wonderful memories of Anam Cara, would we be able to make new memories if we got another boat I ask???  Anyway, dreaming over (for now) they joined me for a snack and of course Lee’s taste buds were tickled by this sailor and his “lot”.   

Time to head back but first I took them to Falmouth Harbour to see the results of the fire, then onto Pigeon beach for a quick paddle before getting back for showers etc., prior to our visit to Papa Zouk’s for a lobster dinner.

Time for an aperitif before heading to down-town, St. John’s.   Parking never seems to be a problem here, locals just stop and leave their car where they fancy and I am now settled into their driving ways, “big balls and go” seems to be the right way here!!!

As expected the place was heaving, so glad we booked, had we not done so, Lee and Sarah would have missed out again.  This is one of those places that is all about the food and the atmosphere, not the surroundings, after all it is only a “tin shack” on a very small, out of the way, unlit side street.  This time we had a table to ourselves, normally you just sit on a long bench along with other diners, as if you were at school but the floor is gravel!!!

The four of us had lobster in the various formats and they were magnificent, even their wine was very good but no choice!!!   Tonight we were treated by Lee and Sarah; this very kind of them, thank you both very much.

So much food!

Eventually we left but not before making another booking for next week.g

What was left of the evening gave us time for a night-cap or two, and a chat about our week together before heading to bed; the latest night we’ve had all week!!!!!

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Galleon Beach

Wednesday 15th January 2025

We awoke to another glorious morning but no rush, nothing specific on today so carried out some domestic chores before heading out.

Today we headed for Galleon Beach, a small bay opposite the entrance to English Harbour where there is a tour that heads out from here, around the headland to the pillars of Hercules where there is a wreck.  With this snorkelling tour you get an underwater scooter to pull you along so though it’s a fair way, not too much effort is required.

Galleon bay

Arriving in Galleon Bay and parked, we quickly found the “A  board” with a ‘phone number and rang it.   Today Lee and Sarah were going and booked the 1400hr tour so with a couple of hours to spare, we headed to the beach restaurant for an early lunch, but as we hadn’t booked, we were “told”, we had to be away from our table at 1400hrs as it was booked at that time, no problem with that as the snorkelling tour started around that time.

Taken from our table in restaurant

We ordered some drinks and waited, and waited, they also chivied us up to order our food!!!   Anyway apart from diabolically slow service, we enjoyed a very pleasant lunch accompanied by a couple of bottles of Chardonnay.  The real joke was, due to their slow service we only just finished by 1400hrs!!!!!

Food was good, service was slow, but hey we are on holiday

Lee and Sarah headed off to join their tour whilst we headed a few meters and straight into the sea.  This beach being in the mouth of English Harbour, though nice sand there was a fair amount of seaweed and shingle, still we managed!!!

We all met up again around 1600hrs.  They thoroughly enjoyed their tour of the rocks and wrecks and of course with the scooters pulling them along, minimal effort was required.

Another lovely bay

Heading back home via a supermarket where the four of us headed in different directions with a task to get two or three items where hopefully this would speed things up and we would all get to the checkout together; it worked, team effort.  Back at the ranch, Christine conjured up an excellent Pasta dish followed by the “Key-lime-pie” we bought, yum yum.

We were going to teach our guests to play cribbage but everybody was shattered so we just sat around chatting and drinking: Christine even commented how good it was to see me drinking again, blimey  that’s a first!!!

Tomorrow is Lee and Sarah’s last full day, see what they want to do, however we do have a table booked at “Papa Zouk’s”, the fish restaurant they missed out on four years ago

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