Oldies On Tour

Santarem, Amazon

Posted on 05/01/2018 by Geoff

A normal morning, tea in bed followed by breakfast, then over the tannoy: —— oh dear were going to be late arriving at Santarem due to a stronger than expected current. I think this ship need’s to up-rate its engines; it needs extra power to deal with all the currents!!!!!! By the way we are now 400 miles in-land from the Atlantic and the Amazon is still very, very, very wide.

Downtown Santarém

A beautiful day, sunny and very hot as we boarded the complimentary shuttle to town; by the way, I have to say I use the term “town” in the loosest term. The coach bumped along the road, no rear suspension, no air-conditioning (not that we expected this) hard and narrow plastic seats and that’s before we talk about the roads. Potholes, manhole covers missing, traffic going where they want, no rules me thinks, and a lot of noise, horns etc.

There is not too much to say about the “town”, whatever shop you went into the stuff for sale was much the

More of Santarém

same; washing machines, fridge’s, mobile ‘phone covers etc., etc., and clothes: blimey, there were so many clothes retailers I don’t know how they all survived.

Shady street

We walked up one street, strolled down another, meandered along another and eventually arrived at the Cathedral. From the outside it looked promising, but on the

Local Cathedral

inside, it looked rather austere; not what a RC church normally looks like.

Inside Cathedral

Local market stalls, not a magnet in sight!

We then walked through the market and back to the Promenade. There were all these Amazon boats with their bows resting on the “beach”. We think they were “types” of overnight ferries as they had hammocks; two or three decks and

they were loading sacks of rice; fodder for the “guests” we presume.

Not withstanding our short and limited stay here, Santarem does have some history but more importantly it is a junction where two major rivers meet; the Tapajos River flows into the Amazon but the amazing thing here is; the Tapajos River is crystal clear but the amazon is “Café-au-Lait, and both run alongside for several kilometers, before converging. This phenomenon is called, “The meeting of the waters by locals”, no surprise there!!!!! However saying that, the

One of the many boats tied up on the waterfront

view is quite amazing. When you look over to the Amazon you think you are looking onto a very long sandy beech; wrong, it is the Amazon Water.

Now for the little history for those who may be interested, oh well here goes!!!

The first reference to this place was in 1542 by a Spaniard who wrote about the local Tapajos Indians. 10 years later a Portuguese explorer along with a “Father Cristoovao” and a few hangers on set out to explore the upper reaches of the Amazon. They came upon this area where the two rivers meet and set up a port.

The actual town of Santarem was founded by Father Joao Filipe Bettendorff in 1661, where he built the “Chapel of our Lady of Conception”, The town was named after the city in Portugal, and apart from that, there is not a lot to say. But today this port, apart from being a cruise stop, is a very busy terminal for the loading of Soy Beans. Cargill Inc., has a

Cargill Inc. soya bean factory

major facility here. They have a number of very large storage silos and a conveyor system to load bulk carriers when they arrive. You may wonder why I mention them, well, there is a lot of controversy in these parts about the way they are decimating the rain forest to grow soya beans. They must feel guilty a teeny bit as they have removed their name off the warehouse roof.

Back on board for a swim,

Pool to myself, lovely

during which time we continued planning our “party area” in the new house, (if we get it); for example where to put the Jacuzzi and the bar, and what size pool we need etc., etc. This was followed by dinner and the show; not so good tonight, it was the ships singers with the show band doing many Broadway hits.

Tomorrow we visit Parintins,

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Sea-Day and Crossing the Equator

Posted on 04/01/2018 by Geoff

Today we headed down to the mouth of the mighty Amazon. Interestingly this is not a Delta; it is the mouth of the Amazon. The reason and difference is due to the fact that so much water is flowing out of this river, taking many tons of sediment, nutrients, Gold and many other things. The volume and strength of this flow keeps going out well into the Atlantic. The water coming out of the Amazon is “Café-au-lait” colour, and this brown stain stretches out nearly 150 miles into the Atlantic. The currents then take it northwards and we were sailing through this murky water for several hours before we actually turned into the Amazon. At the entrance, depending on the height of the river, the distance from bank to bank is about 35 miles, much further than the Straits of Dover in the English Channel.

Certificate to prove it

Neptune calling for everyone to attend. Think the beard was used for Father Xmas as well!

Naturally being on a ship and crossing the Equator; for the first timer’s King Neptune has to come aboard to initiate them into the Ancient Order of the Deep. Now fortunately I was “done” on my first sea crossing in 1949, I still have the certificate to prove it! But Christine, oh no, she has to go through it along

Crew suffered more than we did

with nearly have the guests.

Unfortunately things have changed over the years, Health and Safety has got in the way and later hygiene. When I went through it, and bear in mind I was only 5 years old, each person going through the ceremony had to sit in a seat with your back to the pool. King Neptune said a few words, covered you all over with shaving soap or something and then tip you backwards into the swimming pool. That’s the proper way but

Kissing the fish, not pleasant. Hope we don’t get fish tonight on menu!

today they queued up, first to kiss a fish then they

Porridge in my hair arms and neck, great!

were dabbed with Porridge, after which they are told to use the shower; how weak is that!!!!! Anyway Christine, after being

Well at least we will have safe travels now

pressured by me plucked up the necessary courage and went through this small ceremony and has a certificate to

Porridge does not come off very easily! Still I enjoyed sharing a shower!

prove it.

Sticky and very gooey

We had our second Amazon Lecture this morning and again it was fascinating. We went through the Pre-historic History and the evolution of local tribes, how the Spanish and Portuguese carved up the continent and how mankind today is decimating the Rainforest for financial gain. About 20% of the Amazon Rainforest has ben removed and many of those places are now just desert. The Atlantic Rainforest, South of Rio de Janeiro is only about 15% to 20% of its former self. Now I’m not a “green” person by any stretch of the imagination but I do understand the significance of the looking after our Rainforests; maybe sense will prevail. There is so much about the Amazon and De-forestation, if anybody is interested here are useful two links to get you going!!

Most of the day was taken up playing cards with a couple we have met from Canada, lovely, down to earth couple and on our wavelengths, that takes a bit of doing!!!!!

Dinner tonight in the Buffet sitting out under the stares whilst the ship is at anchor in the middle of the Amazon, again Lobster but this time with giant Prawns. Why are we anchored in the middle of the Amazon I hear you ask; well, we have to take on immigration officials who go through every passport, and enjoy a good mea before leaving!!!!. We also have to take on 2 pilots; they work a 5-hour shift each and will be with us all the way to Manaus, 900 miles inland from the Atlantic; a fair way you could say!

Tonight’s “Showtime” was called “Five O’clock somewhere” and they were a brilliant young married Irish couple; singers and multi instrumentalists who were funny as well and at the end had most people on their feet. We look forward to watching them again in a few nights time.

We left the Sirena lounge after the show and strolled along both the port and starboard decks, I’d like to say in the moonlight but can’t, though there was a nice bright moon, there were also floodlights along the deck. We appeared to be about 1 to 2 miles from one side of the river and couldn’t see anything of the other; the opposite bank must have been over the horizon.

Tomorrow we arrive at Santarem around midday.

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Ile Royale, French Guiana

Posted on 03/01/2018 by Geoff

Today we are visiting Ile Royale or known as Devils Island to us. We were advised last evening we would arrive at 0700hrs but would be leaving at 1100hrs. At around 0350hrs, that time of the night when nocturnal activities take place and our paths crossed, Christine came out with, “Its gone 6 o’clock, we may as well get up and catch the early tender” I naturally got back into bed and suggested she also went back to sleep!!! As things happened due to the strong northerly current our ship lost ground resulting in our arrival being late, arriving around 0900hrs.

At anchor with tender going to island

Our tea boy performed admirably again this morning, well done to him. We enjoyed our breakfast watching the Islands from the terrace buffet on the outside deck whilst the ship dropped anchor and discharged the tenders, preparing for the transfer. There is only one small jetty here so we were a 5-minute boat ride away.

Our plan was to wait until the first rush of people had gone, this saved us having to wait in the lounge and get tender tickets etc. Our cunning plan worked; once we had completed breakfast, sorted ourselves out, we walked down to the tender embarkation platform and straight onto a tender and away within a couple of minutes; so far so good but now 3 large Catamarans had arrived from the mainland and they presumably got priority to land their passengers which seemed to take for ages. Our 5-minute tender ride eventually took around 25 minutes; still it was quite fun bouncing around in the swell!!!

Solidarity confinement, dark away from everywhere

Now for a brief history. The first reference of these islands was recorded in 1552 and in 1595 Sir Walter Raleigh was in these waters; in fact he sailed up the

So tiny, no wonder they went mad!

Orenoque River. In 1604 a French explorer arrives and the entire region between the Amazon and the Orenoque River becomes French Territory. Around 1763/64 a failed expedition took refuge here and that’s when the islands became known as the Iles du Salut, or Salvation Islands. From 1795 – 1798 during the French revolution, 331 political opponents and Priests who refused to take the Oath of Obedience to the constitution were shipped to this region; obviously not

Horrendous place

everybody was guillotined at that time!!! In 1852 the first shipload of Prisoners left France to begin their sentences in Ile Royale, later to be known as Devil’s Island. At that time the French Government, led by Napoleon 3^rd, had the idea of getting rid of Prison buildings and their inmates, and in 1854 the law on transportation was passed. Jails were emptied and all prisoners were sent to French Guiana to a prison Complex in the North West of the country where they were subjected to hard labour

Remains of the prisons

however, those most dangerous, or troublesome in the hard labour camp, ended up on the Ile Royale, later known as devil’s island. The conditions here were dreadful, many went off their rockers; not surprising as the worst offenders were thrown into a cell about 7ft by 4ft with no roof for up to 5 years!!!! The better-behaved poisoners had a certain amount of freedom as the island was impossible to escape from, however: Apparently one man did escape by tying loads of coconuts together and floating away, but where did he float to I have to ask!!!

This penal system went on until it was disbanded in 1938. The strap line for this place must be “Purgatory in Paradise”

One of the restored buildings

To add injury to insult, all prisoners released after completing their sentences had to stay in French Guiana for a time equal to the length of their forced labour sentence, but if your sentence was more than 8 years, after release you had to stay in Guiana for the rest of your life, harsh or what?

My favourite bit, the monkeys, they were fun to watch

Today this is a very nice island to walk around, tropical vegetation, palm trees with coconuts, the remains of the prison

Spot the tiny baby on her back, so cute

cells and other derelict buildings, a Hotel, but the exciting part

Peacock enjoying our company

was seeing the monkeys that live on the Island. There are two species, The Spider Monkey and the Capuchin Monkey, not too sure which we actually saw!!! There were also Peacocks and Agoetis, large funny looking rats without tails.

Big rats

Water used to be kept here and pumped out!

We thoroughly enjoyed our morning and we were back on board at noon, ½ an hour before the last tender left the Island.

Water storage the modern way!

Beautiful idyllic Island shame it has a terrible history

couldn’t wait to get back to our cabin, take off our clothes, as they were soaking in sweat, and have a cool shower before going to lunch.

This afternoon we had the first of six lectures about the Amazon, very interesting but our lecturer has a boring voice and many people dropped off.

Yesterday I was seduced by a rather nice lightweight Blazer in the ships boutique, so bought it; ouch! Unfortunately, to get the right size and a decent fit, the sleeves were too long but never mind the shop staff tell me, we have a tailor on board who will sort that out for you. Late this afternoon we had a call from the tailor, he came over, measured the jacket sleeves and said it would be ready in the morning. I had no opportunity to change my mind!!!!!

We dined in the Buffet again tonight as we both fancied a Lobster followed by a steak; decadent or what!!!!! As we were finished rather too early for “Showtime” we went into the card room and played a few hands of crib.

An old crooner from the UK, Jamie Michael Stewart, entertained us tonight. His main claim to fame was that he was in an American program called “Love Boat”, never saw it my self but apparently it was popular and ran for several years. He sang many different songs from famous Artists such as Frank Sinatra and Barry Manilow to name but two; he was the total professional and had the audience eating out of his hand but he was very good. He has two more shows before we leave the ship.

Another sea-day tomorrow but more importantly we enter the Amazon and cross the Equator when we will be visited by King Neptune and all those who haven’t crossed the Equator by sea will have the initiation!!!!

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Scarborough, Tobago: New Years Day

Posted on 01/01/2018 by Geoff

No rush this morning, we weren’t due to dock ‘till around 0900hrs and as we had holidayed on the island in the past, we only thought of going to Fort King George, not having been there before. We ordered Room service again and wow, firstly they answered the ‘phone and secondly, they brought exactly what we asked for. Perhaps they heard I wasn’t happy and was going to mention it in dispatches: whatever it was, they were back to firing on all cylinders, I hope it continues!!!!!

Because Christine is still coughing a lot we went to the buffet where we can sit in a corner, outside on deck. After a few housekeeping tasks we went for our morning coffee/tea and snifter before leaving the ship. We had an interesting chat with Aldo, the Barista as he wasn’t busy he was happy to chat about his contract and working conditions etc. They may not be paid in the upper echelon of earners but as he pointed out, he lives for nothing, pays no tax and can save all his earnings. If he fancies a beer in the “Crew bar” it only costs him $1, we pay $9, now folks you can understand why people buy full booze packages and naturally try and get their money’s worth.

I digress. We left the ship and as we got to the end of the gangplank, the heavens opened so back on board and got the umbrella etc., and ventured out again. Naturally by now the downpour had ceased and the sun had dried the ground; oh well that’s the nature of things around here. As we walked into the customs hall we asked the tourist information lady how far away is Fort King George, to which she replied ½ an hour walking, up hill all the way so get a taxi and walk down. Ha, that’s for wimps we decided and set off on foot following Google Maps on our ‘phone. Sometimes, don’t you just wonder why you make silly decisions! The lady in the Tourist office was most probably right; a taxi may have been the best option but the decision was made so off we climbed up a 1.7 Km un-ending hill in the midday sun, still with a number of rests we arrived and felt good; well knackered actually, soaked to the skin, no, not by rain but by sweeting out last nights booze. Still we were there ¾ of an hour after we started and guess what, it was all

Views were spectacular

closed. We were obviously annoyed, as when we were heading up the hill, we met a couple heading down; they incidentally took the sensible option, Taxi up, walk down: they told us the Museum was open. We eventually realised that the museum was only open for the organised tours from the ship and this couple happened to be there at the right time. New Years Day is a Holiday here as well, how un-reasonable is that?

The views from up here were stunning; there is no doubt why

Fabulous old trees, and if you look carefully you can see the ship

this site was chosen and why the British wanted it, with its commanding panoramic views it was the perfect location to spot any advancing ships, and protect Scarborough.

The history of this site is interesting: In October 1777, Lord George Macartney, British Governor General of Grenada and

Outside the museum. Geoff’s shirt is a little damp

Tobago, authorized the erection on “Scarborough Hill” of two barracks and double kitchen to house two companies of soldiers, together with capping the hill for a parade ground. By 1779 work was near completion.

In June 1781, Tobago fell to the French. By 1784 the French, under General Blanchelande, began construction of a fort on the hill. Work was halted in 1785 and resumed in 1786 under the administration of Count Dillon. The fort was named “Fort Castries”, named after the French Minister of war. In 1789 it was renamed “Fort Republique” and “Fort Liberte” in 1790 when the garrison revolted. The British under a Major General Cornelius Cuyler, recaptured the fort in 1793.

The walls everywhere were solid, built to last

Tobago was returned to France in 1801 but by 1803 was again a British Colony. The fort was then referred to as “Fort King George” after King George III, in 1804. On the 11^th October 1847 a hurricane damaged and destroyed most of the buildings. A garrison was maintained until 1854 when they withdrew to Barbados.

Powder room, the walls were at least 2ft deep

Today the fort is being restored and reconstructed and will be renamed Fort King George Heritage Park

The lighthouse doubled as a gift shop as well

So now to plod back down again, easier down than up Christine said but I disagree, my knees suffer more going down than they do going up but hey, as there are no Taxis’ we had no choice. We were about ½ way down the hill, sitting on a wall, when a lady stopped her car, wound down the window and asked which way we were going, up or down. Down we said, well jump in she said, I’m going down to the Harbour. We were a little hesitant at first, but she said she was part of the tourist information bureau; I’m not sure why we believed her but did as she said; now that was a very good decision; we were dropped off by the harbour gates a few minutes later.

Back on board we stripped off our wet clothes, had showers and up for a snack lunch, this afternoon we are going to take it easy, after all we had done about 9,000 steps by 1300hrs!!!

Tonight we had re-booked the Red Ginger, the specialty restaurant offering Asian dishes. So, after our lazy afternoon we readied ourselves, headed to Horizon’s for an aperitif before heading to dinner. It was as magnificent as before though I was very conservative and chose the same dishes as last time; it was soooooo nice!!!!!!!!!!! Christine followed my lead and had the same.

The floor show this evening were just two resident singers, they were very good, we stayed ‘till the end!!!! We had planned to return to Horizon’s but after the show we wilted and headed back to the cabin and bed.

Tomorrow a day at sea: washing, the odd lecture and hopefully sunning ourselves before our next stopping place, Devils Island.

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Bridgetown, Barbados: New Years Eve

Posted on 31/12/2017 by Geoff

We woke reasonably early and rang room service for our usual cupper but nothing, no nothing happened, no reply; oh dear, another failure to log in the ships questionnaire!!!

Christine didn’t kick-up much of a fuss so I know she’s not right yet. I left her in bed whilst I went down for the 0900hrs appointment with the medical centre only to be told it was Christine they wanted to see, “separated by a common language” eh! so back to collect Christine then back to the centre, this time they were too busy and suggested we went to breakfast and call back after, which we duly did.

Now at this point I am pleased to say Christine was much better, yesterday she couldn’t walk; today no problem, still we had to go to have the needle taken out of her arm, the one they put a drip through, (we don’t know what the technical term is for this) and have a final round of tests, I could see $$$$ signs floating in front of my eyes.

All good to go pronounced the Doctor, just take it easy; keep taking the medicine; no alcohol other than 1 glass of bubbly at midnight and come back if she has any further problems. Oh yes Mr. Page, just before you go the nurse calls, I have all the results of the various tests we have taken, “a wad full”, and your account. Now I am not sure if I mentioned this before, but whilst waiting in the Clinic another patient came out, looked at me and asked if I had plenty of money, he then turned to the nurse and said he would have to take a mortgage out on his house. Bearing this in mind I braced myself and took a look at the bill: good god, no way could I brace myself for this, the guy was right, a second mortgage may be necessary; wait for it, are you sitting down, fortunately I was. The total bill for 2 consultations, 2 hours in the private ward, a few pills and a couple drips etc., just under $3,000. Unreal or what? I suggested to Christine that if she has a re-lapse, I would shake it out of her!!! Anyway, onwards and upwards, fresh air was called for.

I think this “jolt” improved Christine’s health no end, better than all the drugs taken and now felt well enough to venture into Bridgetown.

When we walked down the gangplank we were surprised to see 4 other cruise ships in the harbour. I always thought the places cruise ships visited, the local port authority organised and spread them, not have them all together as there would be too

We used to bring the dinghy alongside here to get provisions etc.,

many people to deal with all at once which would limit their “take of
The bridge named after Bridgetown
dollars”. Still we walked the 2 Km to town, albeit with several rests and when we arrived at the harbor where the fishing boats and day trip boats as moored, we

Down memory lane, happy days on Whitbread

remembered all the times we used to motor up in our dinghy, and enjoy the local atmosphere; food; drink “Carib”, the local beer; numerous rum punches and Christmas at the Hilton Hotel: ah yes, the

Many a Carib taken here

memories came flooding back and this contributed to Christine improving by the minute.

We walked over the bridge and sat down in the Harbour Bar, I

They caught three big fish, skinned, filleted and sold to local hotelier

enjoyed a few Rum Punches whilst Christine did as she was told and enjoyed (I think!) sparkling water. We got talking to a Scottish couple from another cruise ship and what was meant as a one drink and rest stop took us past lunchtime and into mid afternoon. We were right on the waterfront and a fishing boat moored up, stern first and they proceeded to gut, skin and fillet these rather large Wahoo, These are large predatory tropical marine fish of the mackerel family, and prized as a game fish; no doubt they sold them to the local restaurant as “the catch of the day”, fascinating to watch. We then started the long meander back, stopping along the way to make a few family ‘phone calls.

Bless she really enjoyed the music

We were back on board in time to put our feet up for an hour before the New Year’s Eve festivities begin. To get us all in the mood, the ship had arranged for a Caribbean steel band to come aboard and play for an hour by the pool; they were good and had a good reception at the end. Whilst playing one or two got up to dance but one person in particular really went to town, she looked to be in her 90’s, she had long grey hair, she is always seen wearing gloves, though not tonight she was carrying them, no doubt all this exertion got her warm, anyway, well done her and good luck.

Firstly we ventured into the Martini bar, this had much of the ceiling covered with balloons: someone had done a lot of puffing!!!!! We then headed to the Grand Dining Room where we met up with the couple we shared a taxi/van when we went to Antigua. The Dining room not only had balloons everywhere but we were all presented with a garland and a hat to get us into the festive mood. The four of us shared a table and had a great evening and I have to say yet again, the 68 Chefs on board surpassed themselves.

Following the meal we headed to the Sirena lounge to listen to the stand up comedian, though American, he didn’t just make jokes for the American contingent; he appealed to everyone though there were a number of risky topics which may have caused a little offence to some, but he didn’t seem to care, on he went and the audience loved it. It also transpires this comic, Tom Drake, is married to our cruise director Dotty Kulasa.

It’s party time

After the show we headed up to Horizons Lounge where there

Great time was had by all.

there was a lively party going on; more balloons everywhere; music; bar rushed off their feet and the countdown to midnight called by the captain. It turned

Party time

out to be an excellent New Year Year’s Party.

Tomorrow we go to Tobago.

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30th December, a Day at Sea

Posted on 30/12/2017 by Geoff

Today started badly, we couldn’t raise room service for our daily ritual, a cup of tea in bed and also, watching the daily program on TV I heard the lecture that I wanted to go to was at 0900hrs, ouch!!! Add to that Christie wasn’t still herself so not a good start, and oh yes, at 1015hrs was our second boat drill.

We made breakfast OK and Christine kept it light, just fruit. We got back to our cabin just in time for me to go the lecture; unfortunately all Christine did was flop on the bed. Now being the caring husband I am I offered to stay but she said no, you go; I didn’t offer a second chance though.

Again another superb lecture about Pirates, Privateers, and Buccaneers attacking the Spanish fleets which much of the talk being about Sir Francis Drake. It was very interesting how the Spanish organised their plunder from central and southern America, consolidated in Hispaniola now Cuba, and transported it back to Servile in Spain. Though on the transatlantic they were easy targets, they defended their booty well and not as many ships, as were brought up to believe, suffered. It was during the consolidation period where most of the plunder took place, well according to our knowledgeable lecturer.

I rushed back to the cabin to collect Christine for boat drill and found her in a sorry state; she was in bed, had been sick, had a terrible head ache and generally felt sh1t. Now boat drill is compulsory so we had no option but to go, fortunately today’s drill didn’t involve standing on deck, only at our muster station in the grand lounge. As soon as it was over we were first out and she was back in bed. At this stage things weren’t too bad, so I went off to play cribbage with another couple from Canada and when I got back to the cabin, things were not good, her hands and feet had pins and needles, generally lethargic etc., etc., The medical centre was not open so Reception paged the nurse and after describing the symptoms she organised a wheel chair to collect Christine, take her to the ships medical centre for tests. They wired her up to all sorts of machinery did a number of tests, put her on several drips and kept on investigating. The nurse told me to go and eat as Christine was in for the next hour or so being monitored. Apparently her potassium was very very low, and she was dehydrated.

After a snack lunch I returned and after a short time they discharged her arranged a wheel chair to return her to our cabin, told to go to bed and they will see her tomorrow at 1800hrs, me on the other hand, I was asked to report to the centre at 0900hrs, I think this is for the presentation of an almighty bill.

We had a quiet and early night, hoping Christine is better tomorrow, New Years Eve in Bridgeton, Barbados.

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Santarem, Amazon

Sea-Day and Crossing the Equator

Ile Royale, French Guiana

Scarborough, Tobago: New Years Day

Bridgetown, Barbados: New Years Eve

30th December, a Day at Sea

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