Oldies On Tour

Thursday and would you believe it, it’s Lee and Sarah’s last day but yesterday, out of the blue Sarah asked if there was time to do “Stingray City”, and after a ‘phone call we were booked in but  had to be on the other side of the Island for 0830hrs. So much for relaxing; we set the alarms for 0630hrs as we had no idea what the early morning traffic would be.  What a good job we did, according to SatNav it takes 29-minutes, but the journey would take longer due to pot holes, unusually

Very tame

heavy traffic, road works, an un-made road and traffic lights that flash red “every-which-way” causing a mad scramble to get across, not that I had trouble with that, I just went!!!!   We finally got away at 0730hrs and eventually arrived about 0820hrs, made our way to the office to pay etc., only to find out we didn’t  actually need to be there until 0855hrs, we could have had another 30-minutes in bed!!!!

There were about thirty of us in the boat as we headed on the 10-minute journey to the reef where all the Stingrays congregate; a large sandbar about 3-ft deep with a floating dock secured to the sea floor.  As soon as we entered the sea we were surrounded by Stingrays,

Lee and Sarah

amazing creatures, so friendly and used to humans. One of the rangers told us he had one female stingray he called by name, we immediately checked to see if it was 1st April but no, he then proceeded to demonstrate it, and she went to him!   We were Snorkelling, filming, and even feeding them with baby squid though this did cause poor Christine a small problem.   We were shown how to hold the squid in our hand, how close to put it to their mouth, and then let the stingray suck it out.  If we were too close we would get bitten, too far away and it would just drop to the sea floor.   Christine dropped hers, oops and said that was it;  however Lee thought differently, and got her another squid and wouldn’t take no for an answer; I am pleased to say she succeeded. 

There are about 220 stingray species in our oceans, mostly in sub and

tropical waters, they are also related to the shark family. Around Antigua there are eight species including Eagle Rays, Whiptail stingrays, and Butterfly stingrays but the rays located here in Stingray City, are “Southern Stingrays”.   The reason they congregate on this particular sandbar is all down to being fed by the rangers and visitors, even during the “closed” season, the rangers still come at 0900hrs, 1100hrs and 1300hrs to feed them, this way the stingrays know through habit when food is always available and just

turn up!!!  

After about an hour watching, handling and talking about them we headed back to the Island for a  complementary “rum punch” and to view the “professional” photos taken whilst out in the water.

OK, the morning was still relatively young so headed to “longbay beach” for a swim and also booked into “Mama Pasta”, an Italian restaurant on the beach for an early lunch, but unfortunately though the setting was great, the food wasn’t quite as expected, never mind it was an interesting place to be for lunch!!!

Lee and Sarah

The drive back was more sedentary and Lee and Sarah had oodles of time to prepare for the journey back to UK.

We left the house in plenty of time to get to the airport but Antigua, well the roads in particular hadn’t quite finished with us.  “Friars Hill Road” the main road we have to use has had major roadworks, apparently for the best part of two years, though I have to say since we’ve been here we have seen quite a bit of progress.  Anyway today there was major “indigestion”, total confusion in the one way system, probably not helped due, as usual to some drivers totally ignoring the red lights and meeting oncoming traffic; normal practice here but please, not today as we have two people trying to catch a flight.  Out of desperation Lee got onto his SatNav and low and behold found there was a “sort” of track we could use to by-pass these roadworks.  The track forked and we went one way only to find a darn great pool of muddy water blocking our way, oh for the off-roading buggies we had on Wednesday!!!  A quick 3 point turn and we came back to the junction and went the other way.  This was certainly the “dry” way but bumps and holes needed to be circumnavigated and well done “Pepe 2” for taking them all in her stride!!!!  Back on route we watched their Virgin flight arrive but we did make the airport with time to spare, phew!!!!!

When Lee and Sarah arrived we had booked the off-roaders and the

Not sure I enjoyed this

sailing, both activities started at reasonable times and apart from those two activities they wanted a few relaxing days on a beach, a little snorkelling and generally unwind. From the first night, they arrived on Saturday to the time we took them back to the airport today, Thursday, there has been precious little chance of relaxing; yes they fitted in 6-beaches and snorkelling off the boat, but they added in other unplanned activities that most nights we were all knackered.  Still

DCIM100GOPROGOPR4915.

what a fantastic few days we all had; thoroughly enjoyable, so we must do it again somewhere, sometime.

Off we go!

This morning we headed to Fort James Beach but en-route stopped by the old fort for Sarah and Lee to admire the view from the top, high above the harbour.   The sea today, though still nice and warm was quite rough for the Caribbean, presumably there was some bad weather about in a “far-off” place, anyway it was a challenge entering and leaving the sea.  We didn’t stay long as we had an appointment at 1330hrs at the “Salty Dog” office as we had booked an “off-road” excursion so headed home for a quick snack before arriving at the “Salty Dog” offices to “pay-up” and have the debrief, the usual health and safety warnings etc., followed by signing away any rights we “may” have with the disclaimer!!!

Bumpity bump

We mounted our off-road “chariots”, Japanese built, 500cc 4 wheel drive CFMoto Z force vehicles, and we were off. We headed out of the port area of St Johns, through the back streets, many of which we hadn’t been through before, before hitting the open road heading for the big mountain in the rain forest. Our party consisted of the Salty Dog lead driver “Donald”, Lee and Sarah in the first car, with Christine and I following. Behind us was the salty Dog “rear gunner”, there to ensure no one got left behind; fat chance of that with Lee and I driving!!!! Speeding along the open road, achieving 62-KPH at one stage, we soon reached the point of no return, i.e. onto the dirt tracks. Fortunately we were all secured with full harness belts, crash hats and a “big” grab handle for the passenger and naturally roll bars built in!!! I don’t know how Sarah felt sitting alongside Lee, but I know Christine was

Donald telling Geoff he is very naughty

apprehensive; it’s her bones you know!!!   It didn’t help that en-route we had to stop to get Christine’s full harness straps tightened; the last person must have been rather large!!!!

We had been told to follow Donald’s wheel tracks on the basis he knew the best way through the dips, bumps, mud baths, rocks and oh yes, the “supposed” track, and this we did at breath-neck speed, staying as close as possible in line astern.   All was well until we met a “car” coming the other way; how a car managed to be there we’ll never

Reservoir

know, but he was and we had to make room. Fortunately there was “spare” track off to the side, so we squeezed into that to let him by.   Due to this car “attacking us” we finished in a different order, I was in front of Lee and being a little “off-the-wall” stuck right up Donald’s backside and pushed him as hard as I could.   I expected, at the next stop to be told to calm down but no, he responded and the two of us were

Lots of mud and plenty of water

off, and on occasions left the other two behind, Poor Christine, though she was well strapped in the jolts must have been very painful as there was no quarter given, I wasn’t going to let Donald have the satisfaction of getting away.

We had four pre-arranged stops. The first was where the original reservoir “Body Pond” was built many years ago, but today the dam is broken and there is minimal water and trees etc., growing out of it however there is still an outlet pipe for water to be used at our next stop. Here Donald pointed to a community of “Rastafarians”, apparently there are around 100 of them in total, living a self-contained and self-sufficient life in an enclosure that also has its own school etc., and in addition, they

Looking over St.Johns

cultivate all the land around the enclosure for their food. The Antiguan Government has given them a one hundred year lease on the land, and if they still occupy it at the end, they have the right to buy it.

Our next stop, more of a comfort break and we were given some pineapple chunks to eat. We then set off on our last off-roading section prior to heading back to St Johns and now we really gave it some “welly,” no holds barred knowing it was all coming to the end.

Our last stop was high above St Johns, the “official” picture spot looking down onto the 3-Cruise ships moored in the harbour with the surrounding buildings.

We tootled down some really “hairy” hills, in very low gear as our last “hurrah” before returning the buggies to the Salty Dog pound. After all

Fantastic view of St.Johns

the good byes and the discretionary tip, we headed to C & C for a bottle of wine, well two to be precise, with all four of us sporting grins from ear-to-ear, we had all had a fabulous time though it did go very quickly, we think they cater for slow drivers, and we weren’t, we went too fast!!!!!!

Leaving C & C for a much needed shower before heading out again, this time to a recommended restaurant that “advertises” and as its name suggests, they only do “Fish & Rum”, though we think they can do chicken if needed.   After a difficult drive to find this place in the back streets of St Johns, including a 20-point turn, we arrived, only to find it heaving with no spare tables. It hadn’t occurred to us to book a table for opening time, we hadn’t been told just how popular this place was!!   Oh well, after a short discussion we headed back to the old faithful place, yes C & C.   Christine and I will try again another time and report back to Lee and Sarah,

Back at the ranch we headed straight to bed though Lee did download the videos he took some are embedded here.

This video is very big but at least you can get some idea what my bones suffered. Christine

Geoff’s face says it all!

The complete package

Tuesday and the day I’ve been waiting for has arrived at last.  Today the four of us have chartered a private yacht with skipper and we can’t wait.

Breakfast was taken swiftly and on the hoof as we had to be in Jolly

Lee and Nick at the controls

Harbour for 1000am and goodness knows what the morning traffic will be like so we took the precaution of leaving early.  Anyway, the run over to Jolly was clear so as we were early, this allowed our guests to have a wander around and look at the boats in the marina.

We were Collected on the dot of 1000am and we headed to our vessel for the day; a Benateau 50, skippered by Nick and his mate (wife) Kay and we left the harbour.  Whilst heading out we scanned all the boats at anchor for the one we looked at and liked but unfortunately it was nowhere to be seen.  Oh well never mind It’ll be back, hopefully!!!!  Into the open sea, up went all the sails, engine off and we headed south, what could be better so broke out the beer; 

Kay chatting to Lee

Fortunately this is not a dry boat!!!  The sea was clam and the wind light but we were sailing and that was the main thing.   Lee and Sarah hadn’t sailed before so they were enjoying their experience though Sarah had the foresight to take a sea sick pill before setting off.  Lee took the helm at one point an steered the boat superbly well following the coast line but inside the reef and for a few minutes we were healing over nicely, real sailing!!!!!   

Sarah doing her bit

We finally arrived outside Carlisle Bay and dropped the anchor before we all got into the clear, calm, warm blue sea where snorkelling was the order of the day.

Our Skipper was a retired Solicitor from Warwickshire who had come to Antigua 14-years ago and took over this private charter firm, well a boat!  That for him was the simplest and quickest way to get the necessary papers to operate a charter boat.  His wife used to be in “high-end” retail but now was Nick’s “mate” and “cook” and

Sunbathing on deck

“deckhand” and “relief helmsman” if he needs a break, but it works, they are a very good and efficient operating team.

Anyway, after our swim and back on board Kay produced a wonderful lunch; Wahoo on a homemade salsa with lemongrass mayonnaise and salad, followed by fresh fruit and Brownies all washed down with

Relaxing in the sun

buckets of delightful wine.   It’s amazing what can be produced from a small galley.

After some more swimming etc., we lifted the anchor and headed back north.  This time we only put out the jib but there was sufficient wind to keep us going and Sarah then took the helm during which time I enjoyed their “own version” of a rum punch, and it was very nice so I had a

Enjoying a rum punch

second one!

We eventually pulled back into Jolly Harbour, moored up and said our goodbyes.   What a wonderful day we all had, our hosts were attentive, the skipper was informative both about the seas around the Island and the goings on in Antigua.

Leaving the boat we popped into the “Crows Nest,” a waterfront bar and restaurant where it was happy hour, 2-drinks for the price of one

Sarah looking chilled

and Pina Coladas were the choice three of us went for.  They went down so well we did two rounds, 4-Pina Coladas each, unfortunately I had forgotten I had been supping all day on the boat including 2-very strong rum punches, all I will say is, Christine had to drive back!!!!!   We collected a KFC on the way home and soon after dinner I went to bed, whilst the others stayed up and played crib.

Enjoying ourselves

Another exciting day tomorrow!!

A normal Saturday, quiet morning for Christine trying to rest her foot though we still had to go shopping.   What a mistake, we had to visit 2 supermarkets to actually get most of what we needed.   Supermarkets here tend to run out of stock, their logistical supply chain needs some serious attention!!!

Arriving at the airport on time to meet Sarah and Lee, we encountered a small issue we’d not had before.  Unfortunately the  Virgin flight was the 5th long haul plane to arrive during the last 2hours with rather too many passengers for the airport to process quickly so instead of short wait, it was a long one, and nowhere to have a coffee etc.

With big cheesy grins they emerged and their first words were “how nice to be in the warm again”.  Saturday was a lovely warm sunny day.   On the drive back they quickly grasped the difficulty of driving here, pot holes etc.

After suitable freshening up time the four of us headed into Redcliffe quay for a meal, and yes we went to C & C, again!!!   And if that wasn’t enough we enjoyed the usual fare washed down with four bottles of

Lee and Sarah

their lovely South African Smoked Chardonnay, whoops !!!! We then retreated back to  base and carried on!!! We finally got to bed at midnight, four am, their time!

Not too early and after a slow start headed to Half-moon beach and introduced Sarah and Lee to the delights of the Caribbean, including a Pina Colada.   We couldn’t stop here too long as we had to be back at the ranch in time to wash and dress before “Barry” our taxi arrived; tonight is Shirley Heights night and as the weather has been so

View from the blockhouse

glorious the sunset will be spectacular.   En route we stopped at “The Blockhouse”, this is the remains of the British base high up on the cliff looking out onto the Atlantic, and it was designed as the place the British would make their last stand should the

Amazing views

island be invaded, fortunately it never was.

Sunday at Shirley Heights, as I’ve said on many occasions is the place to be.  The steel band, goodness knows how many musicians there are in the band, as it entertains the very large crowd who gathers

Fantastic sunset tonight

up here every Sunday night, non stop from 4-pm till 7-pm, though this week they just kept going and eventually stopped at around 7.30-pm.   Such a beautiful sunset tonight, Lee and Sarah couldn’t have

Brilliant night

chosen a better night to be in this magic spot.   After dark all the super yachts switched on their mast and anchor lights and being such a clear night, Falmouth and English harbours

An amazing place

sparkled.

Our taxi driver “Barry” was a hive of information about all sorts of things Antiguan, from its history to the current day, as he says, the islands economy is centred around tourism and as a “registered” taxi driver he has to play his part in encouraging tourists to enjoy Antigua and hopefully return.

Arriving back home around 9.30-pm we’d all had enough, swimming in Half Moon, rum punches up at Shirley’s and a late alcoholic night before we were all ready for bed and besides we had to be up early Monday for our first experience.

Today we are heading to the rain forest part of the island to experience

One of the bridges we crossed

the “zip Wires”, where cables, slung between trees with some crossing the valley with deep undergrowth, are waiting for us.   Arriving earlier than expected we headed down to Carlisle Bay so they could view what we think is in the top echelon of beaches here in Antigua.

Back in the adventure park in the rain forest and after “donning on all the gear” and having had our “safety brief” we

Ready for the off!

Geoff getting sorted

headed up the steps to the first run.   Our party was only 8 in total and very friendly though the two other couples were experienced, they’d done this sort of thing on other holidays, on other Islands, we on the other had were complete novices and, we’ll Christine and I, were very apprehensive, still we arrived at the takeoff platform.   The first length was very short, this enabled us to get a feel of everything and put into practice what we had learned in the briefing.   Generally speaking 6-went down very well, Christine on the other hand had a mild panic

Wow

attack at take off point, but fair do’s she did it with encouragement from “Sam” the girl who clipped us all onto the wires, and me behind saying there is only one way down!   When it was my turn to go, that was fine but I couldn’t stop turning and landed bum first nearly flattening “Hawk” the receiver.

Sam and Hawk accompanied us all round the 13-different zip wires, they were very professional and the health and safety standards were extremely high, we all felt totally secure throughout. After the first zip,

So scary, but good fun

we settled down, Christine just did it though several times forgot to lift her feet as she travelled over trees etc., I kept spinning and on all but two occasions landed bum first, couldn’t fathom out why, whilst Sarah and Lee looked professional and to that end did all the videoing from a camera mounted on their heads!!!

To leave the final landing platform we had to cross a number of wire bridges, hung between trees before reaching the steps back out of the valley, so many steps, it nearly killed us!!!!!   Secretly, perhaps, we were disappointed it was over, anyway a good time was had by all so we headed off to Falmouth Harbour for a beer at Cloggys.

Oh no, Cloggys is closed on a Monday, I should have known so it was downstairs to the “Seabreeze” for a beer and another “Mexican” pizza.

Next we headed to Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour; one cannot visit Antigua and not tour this area, so we did.   Sarah in particular was

English Harbour

fascinated by all the super yachts moored both in Falmouth and English Harbour, so we had a good look.

OK, it’s beach time and the nearest was Pigeon Point Beach, our old faithful.   Unfortunately today it was very busy as there was a small French cruise ship moored just outside the harbour, and they were bringing their guests to the beach on their tender, most unacceptable!!!!!

As usual we had a good swim, and whilst enjoying a pina colada, the heavens opened and this was very annoying as we had just got ourselves dry ready for the off, oh well, never mind we’ll drive home wet.  Of course once in the car the sun came out again!!!! 

Tonight Lee and Sarah are having a night off from the “oldies” they’re heading to “Nomads”, a restaurant just up our road that we have had good reports of, we look forward to their feedback.   It is also a very important anniversary for them so it was right they had a nice romantic evening.

The funny thing about all this, Sarah and Lee we’re looking to a

Geoff looking at yachts again

relaxing few days in the sun, some swimming etc but it has been all go go go and tomorrow is another early start, watch this space!

Rain woke us up this morning, the first shower for a week or more now, so a quiet start of the day but Unfortunately the rain came back mid morning, and came down rather hard, so we settled in for the day.  Actually it was rather nice not chasing around and we could do relaxing things!!!!

Our walk before the bridge

Thursday, and we woke up to the return of “proper” weather and feeling invigorated got on with “going out” preparations.   Today we’re off to Deep Bay, 15 out of 365 about half an hour away. 

After a bit of a detour thanks to WAZE sending us to a private resort, where a very nice guard on the gate redirected us, we arrived at the parking area.   To actually access this beach we now had to cross a bridge and follow a short path around the bottom of “Goat  Hill” upon which sits the remains of the old British “Fort Barrington” and when we got to the beach,  boy was it worth it, a long stretch of sand curving

Fort Barrington

around the bay greeted us. 

We found a suitable palm tree under which we could deposit our chairs etc., and enjoy the swimming, beach walking and the local environment.

There is an extraordinary history for this

What a life!

“Goat Hill” which stretches back to the English civil war.  In 1652 Prince Rupert captured the old “earthworks Fortification” as it was then for the Royalists.     Fort Barrington as it is known was named after the Commander-in-chief, Leeward Islands, Admiral Barrington, when he had the old earthworks replaced by the stone fort that is there today.  We want to walk up but looking at the steep path we can’t attempt it whilst Christine is suffering with her ankle when we will know about the remains.

Ha ha ha!

the lonely figure, Christine coming out of the sea brought to mind “Ursula Andress” in the 1962 Bond film “Dr No”, 59-years later!!!!!!   Anyway, After a really nice day, probably too much sun, we headed home

for a usual relaxing evening.

Friday and preparing for Lee and Sarah

Deep Bay, another stunning beach

arriving tomorrow otherwise a quiet day at home trying to get Christine’s ankle better

Friday was “clean-up day” change beds etc., before we could venture out. We also had “Troy” our car rental man coming round as we want to extend the rental ‘till we leave mid March.   When we originally booked he gave us a very competitive rate and fortunately we kept that rate for the rest of our time here; so glad I didn’t pre-book a car at the airport, it would have cost a fortune. 

Once the chores were done we got onto those blessed ESTA’s again.  When we had them printed they didn’t look right, they came out landscape not portrait though and after talking to the US consular, we were told they we’re approved.   Still uneasy we’ll probably have them re-printed direct from our I pads where they are.

Whilst “I the mood” I decided I had to think about the documentation for our cruise back so started that tiresome task, but have to say it was a doddle; why couldn’t the US web site be so easy.

Whilst at the supermarket the other day we spotted a bottle of Italian white wine with a “Waitrose”  label on it at a very low price, so tonight we tried it and was quite surprised, it was lovely and light, reminiscent of Frascati, the bottle soon went.   We’ll get some more of that!!!!

We had a terrible night, the first we’d had whilst here.   Poor Christine was suffering delayed action from the bouncing and bumping we went through on the two trips on the Barbuda Express, and being the caring sort I am, stayed awake as well!

6-Nations rugby returns today with two matches this morning and the all important England V Ireland tomorrow, Sunday.

When the car rental chap delivered the car he forgot an-updated licence to cover the extra period so “promised” to be here at 0909hrs with it, he didn’t.  Anyway with Christine not feeling at her best, instead of depositing her at the Pigeon’s Point Beach, she elected to remain at base; so after ensuring she had everything she needed, and was aware the licence “may” turn up, I was off 

Two matches to watch, a terrible performance by Scotland and a miserable defeat for Wales I head back to find Christine hobbling around. Asking why, the answer flabbergasted me; she had gone to bed after the licence had arrived and was woken suddenly with a bump, she had fallen out of bed and twisted her ankle in the process: Poor Christine.

We wiled away the rest of the day was quietly and I cooked, I hope she doesn’t get food poising on top of everything else!!!!!

Falmouth Harbour

Sunday and it’s England V Wales so the two of us headed to Cloggy’s again.  Arriving I got  chatting to a couple at the bar who looked very chirpy, it turns out they are also Exeter Chiefs supporters and after discovering we followed Saints, took great pleasure in telling me they had “thrashed” Saints in the premiership match earlier this morning. A good start before an England game!!!!  If that wasn’t all, we sat

Lovely Pidgeons beach

next to an Irish lady during the game who naturally took quite a lot of stick.  England won and that’s al that mattered.

A quick lunch downstairs before going onto Pigeons Point beach for a lovey swim though being Sunday the beach was crowded and there

were numerous yachts at anchor.

Long beach bay

Monday and today Longbay beach number: 13 of 365 is our destination down in the southeast of the island, though on the Atlantic side, the bay is sheltered by a point and it has a reef across the bay.  We parked under some trees right next to the sand, took our chairs, picnic cool box etc., and

Little shops on route

found a very nice shady spot about 5 meters from the shoreline. 

The highlight of the afternoon was walking into the “Pineapple resort” to get a drink.  When the bartender gave us our drinks I asked how much only to be told this was an all inclusive holiday resort, and then twigged we weren’t guests.  With the drinks

Sitting enjoying our free drinks

made and poured she was in a little pickle, so she then told us to take our drinks and go away from the bar, naturally we didn’t give her a hard time; free drinks on the beach, excellent.  On the return journey we stopped off at the “Devils Bridge”.  

Devil’s Bridge

Devils Bridge is formed in the limestone rock, bashed by the Atlantic’s waves crashing into it for hundreds of thousands of years and in the process has formed geysers and blowholes where the water shoots through.  The 2 world name is interesting;  “bridge”, because it actually forms an arch or bridge,

Devil’s Bridge

“devils”, because local myth suggests slaves jumped off this bridge during the period of slavery and the myth goes on to suggest the “devil” claimed them

Back at the ranch our evening was much the same as usual but en route went into the supermarket to buy some more of that “Waitrose Light Italian wine” but, too late they’d sold out, bugger!  Never put off………………. instead there was a Waitrose “Chilean” white wine that we bought and tried, it was nice enough, but unfortunately not up to the standard of the Italian one!

After much debate we decided to go to OJ’s, a restaurant on “Crab Hill beach”, number 14 of 365, as we’d heard good reports about it.  

OJ’s beach restaurant

Stopping off at Jolly Harbour on the way ensured we arrived at Lunchtime.  In spite of the recommendations we’d had, we still looked this place up on “trip advisor” and as usual found comments right across the board, from the best place to the worst place on earth!; no change there so went to

My red snapper was enormous

form our own impression.   We left after a couple of hours having enjoyed very good food, a good assorted drinks and wine menu, and excellent service with their own car park. We wandered about the beach but

Might try some of these cocktails behind our bar

Unfortunately Crab Hill beach didn’t do a lot for us so dressed and headed over to Carlisle bay for our daily exercise before returning.  We had eaten so well at lunch, we couldn’t face anything further to eat or drink!