Oldies On Tour

Monday 22nd December 2025

Up and away today, our time at Fugitive Drift has ended.  Last night the place was full so we got to meet more people over drinks and the meal.   It’s always a shame when a place like this is nearly empty, it loses some of its atmosphere.

The big “cloud” hanging over all us leavers today is the state of the unmade roads, the are everywhere around here.   It’s been raining constantly since last evening and we’ve already been warned that heavy rains wash away many parts of the roads.   At reception and after settling everything the Manager advised us on what route to take; local knowledge and all that, but it still meant covering about 21kms, once outside the main gate, fortunately it wasn’t raining when we left.

Car loaded and away we went, the drive to the main gate, circa 4kms was ok but once out onto the “public” dirt tracks, the fun began.  Christine had put our destination into WAZE out of interest and at the first junction, WAZE agreed with the local knowledge.   It was rather odd driving, well crawling, to see locals scattered around nearly all sporting umbrellas!!  At the second junction we came to,  WAZE said one thing and local knowledge said another, hmmmm which way?; we’ve always been told to trust your Instruments.   After a little thought went with local knowledge.   It wasn’t too long when we had two 4×4’s up our stern, but passing was a different matter.  Though the road was wide enough, the actual “driveline”, zig zagging around potholes, made it difficult.  At one stage we had to cross one of many bridges, but the road that butted up to the edge, needed a bridge itself to cover the gap; no problem for 4×4, a little difficult for a normal Toyota, still with a “determination” she overcame this but then drove over the bridge with water cascading  “right across” the bridge; this was when I wish I had a diesel car!!   Eventually the two 4×4’s overtook us and just drove away from us.   Another major obstacle was a hump in the road, probably a large underground pipe exposed, as we went over we sort of balanced on the top, it was the momentum that got us over!!!!!  1-hour later we hit tarmac at an average speed of 15mph; our white car now brown!!

The rest of the journey was ok, reasonable roads, not too much traffic and spasmodic rain and then we hit the motorway  a toll road so could really wind the car up.  From leaving the reserve until we hit the motorway about four and a half hours later, nowhere to stop for a drink, and the mileage between towns is vast.  The services had two or three buy-n-go counters and one restaurant, a “Wimpy”, a name from the past I must add, still it had choices other than burgers!!!

We arrived at the Peach Boutique hotel around 1500hrs and crashed out.   The drive, especially the muddy, washed away roads was stressful, not to mention  driving the wrong type of vehicle, then miles and miles of straight roads; yes glad to park the car.

For the first time, we managed to get a tv channel that wasn’t South African; Netflix and started watching “The Crown”; but not for long!!!!!

Tuesday 23rd December 2025

The Peach Hotel

No rush this morning other than the hire company are collecting the car at 0900hrs, so planned our visit to the restaurant for breakfast to coincide with that.

The room was comfortable and fortunately it was on the ground floor.  There are a serries of buildings set in beautifully manicured gardens with two rooms, one up and one down; no lift, just steep steps.   When we saw that on arrival we “hotfooted” it back to reception and asked if we could change to a downstairs room, fortunately they had one, phew.   Last night as we strolled into the hotel for a snack we detoured around the two pools to have a “gander”, I must say one was small and the other even smaller but attractively set up with sun loungers etc, but the colour of the water was dark green, not impressed.  But the good news, as we strolled to breakfast they were on the job cleaning both pools; it could have been all the rain that caused this to happen.

With the car collected our mind turned to today and what to do.  Next minute I get a call from reception to say the hire person wanted to see me, oh dear what’s wrong I wondered and she told me I had damaged the car and I need to see it.   I hadn’t damaged the car, i knew I hadn’t hit anything or been hit so how come???  Well no damage is visible unless you get right down, sort of hands and knees or you wipe your hand on the underside of the near side front skirt below the bumper; yes it was rough!!!!!  That could only have one of two explanations; it was like that when I collected the car though my visual inspection didn’t pick it up as it was far too low or, a rock from the muddy dirt tracks did it; there were so many noises being heard on those roads, anything could have happened below!!!!   Note to self, look under the car next time!!!   Anyway I was fully insured for waiver damage.

After breakfast we headed back to our room inspecting the pools along the way and pleased to see the water was now clear and apart from being a little on the chilly side, looked inviting, but not now, we’re heading to town.

We booked our Uber which arrived at the gate just when they said they would and headed to the “hop+on, hop-off” big-bus office in a large shopping centre called the Zone at Rosebank.  We are back at the Peach after our excursions around Victoria Falls for a few days and this may be one way to see the area.

We wandered around the two mall areas and admired 4-chaps who were human statues and they only moved when money was tossed into their bowl; I have to say they were impressive.   The sun was shining and we enjoyed pots of tea sitting outside watching the world go by.

Back in an Uber, and back to our hotel after an enjoyable time  and walked past the pool but no one in it, but still the water was clear.

We skipped food tonight and watched more of the crown before bed; early start tomorrow for our flight north.

Saturday 20th & Sunday 21st December 2025

Fascinated by history, when arranging this holiday, this visit was high on my bucket list but to be here we had to stay at one of the lodges in the middle of nowhere, and The Fugitive Drift was chosen by our tour organiser. As mentioned this is a very friendly establishment and staff catering for your every need and conduct the tours.   

Last night we were given our instructions for our first morning, breakfast at 0650hrs and the guide tour leaves “promptly” at 0730hrs, naturally we “conformed”!!!!   Breakfast was served on the deck amongst the trees and was freshly cooked and as everywhere else there was plenty of fresh fruit to be had.

As instructed, we were “on parade” at the appointed time, met our guide “Peewee” (not sure if this is the correct spelling!), and off we went.   The drive to our destination the “Isandlwana” battlefield took the best part of 3/4 of an hour due to us having to drive most of the distance at about 5-kph due to the roads already mentioned, though some of today’s were even worse!!!   What I find strange, here is an area where tourists frequent but the roads are really, really bad.  Forget about the potholes, sort the ditches out!!!  En-route we heard a CD with the narrator describing the politics of that era, the Zulus expansion that got them to Zululand and the attitude of the British and the Boer connections. The unfortunate thing, listening was difficult as the vehicle we were in was fighting the bump and and other obstacles causing it to to protest very loudly, however I found this link which helped fill the missing gaps (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anglo-Zulu_War), naturally it was about expansion, but in this case, both sides had aspirations and after an ultimatum given by the British, part of which was the Zulus had to “diss-arm”, which they didn’t, the Anglo-Zulu war broke out on the 11th January 1879.

Lord Chelmsford (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederic_Thesiger,_2nd_Baron_Chelmsford) led columns of British Red Coats, a contingent from Natal and others totalling 16,500 across the Buffalo river at Rorke’s Drift into Zululand, and set up camp under the mountain known as “Isandlwana”.   The actual position was good, they were on the top of a gentle rolling hill with both flanks semi protected by mountains.  However, Chelmsford receives information as to where the main body of the Zulu army was and sets off leaving 1800 soldiers to guard the camp.   What nobody appreciated was the speed and agility theses Zulus move at and by the time Chelmsford arrives they had gone and yes, they attacked the 1800 men left at Isandlwana, the rest is history; the worst defeat in the history of the British Army, one survivor!!  

History has painted Chelmsford as the scapegoat, but having spent the time here I think that was mistaken.  Chelmsford carried out all the right protocols but the person left in command of the Isandlwana, a Colonel Pulleine, with Colonel Durnford deployed his troops in a thin red line 300 yards ahead of the ammunition wagon and spread out thinly.   Firstly he had no lookouts to warn him and had no idea of the Zulu strength, basic requirements of a commending officer.  Apparently there were 500,000 cartridges in the wagons, and a box full of cartridges weighted 100lbs, imagine trying to replenish the red coats some 300 yards away facing up to 20,000-Zulu warriors charging at full pelt  towards you.   Those brave soldiers had no chance so stood their ground and the inevitable happened at the battle of Isandlwana (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Isandlwana). One issue for the column was their colours, and one of the remaining officers instructed a soldier to save the colours of the 24th regiment and head off.  Unfortunately he didn’t make it, he was caught crossing the river and as he fell into the river, apparently running very fast, took the colours away.   Some weeks later someone found them and they can now be seen in Brecon Cathedral; the 24th is a Welsh regiment and many of their soldiers came from around that area.

The only reminder of the battle that took place here is a monument, and lots of piles of white stones.  It was about four months before the re-maned 24th regiment could return to clear up all that was left of the 1800 corpses, that being bones in what uniforms were still left.   The white piles of stones stand as monuments to the men buried beneath them.

Our guide took us up one of the mountains where we could get an appreciation of the battlefield’s topography and he explained everything in detail. To add to “his” authenticity as a guide of this battlefield, his great, great, great grandfather and his great, great ,great uncle were part of the Zulu army at that time so no doubt the stories were handed down to each generation.

Whilst all this was happening, Chelmsford recognised he’d been “hoodwinked” by the Zulu army but had no idea what was going on so didn’t rush back; at this point he was about 12-miles away with a range of mountains between him and the battlefield.

Once the Zulu had despatched the 1800-force of the British Army, they headed to the Buffalo river crossing at “Rorke’s Drift” to cut off Chelmsford column, but a small contingent of around 4,000 disobeyed their King’s orders “not” to cross into Natal; the river was the border.   The issue was this regiment consisted of young Zulu warriors and before they could get married they had to wash their “Ikiwa”, (their stabbing spear) in blood on the battlefield and this particular regiment hadn’t had that chance at Isandlwana, as they were one of the “Buffalo” formation “attack” horns used to outflank their enemy.   Fortunately for the contingent at Rorke’s Drift, the one surveyor from Isandlwana told them what happened as headed back to safety; couldn’t blame him, but not very loyal!!!

The garrison of just over 150 men, which includes the sick had a hour or so to sort their defence out, so improvised barriers made from readily available supplies at the mission station to defend against the approaching Zulu force of around 4,000. The primary materials used were mealies (bags of grain) and biscuit boxes used to join the two main buildings with a four ft “wall”. The onslaught started late afternoon and went deep into the night; unbelievable courage against wave after wave of Zulu warriors.   By early morning the Zulus stopped and either acknowledged they were beaten or more probably they caught sight of Chelmsford approaching with his column back to Rork’s drift.   According to several eye witnesses at the time, the reminder of the Zulus heading back into Zululand passed Chelmsford coloumn so close they could touch but both armies had had enough.  The battle of Rork’s Drift (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Rorke%27s_Drift) should have had a different result but life is so precious they gave their all as surrendering to the Zulu’ meant immediately being executed.

The small museum was fascinating and had a number of artefacts from that fateful day in January 1879 and a cemetery with the remains of the solders and their names on a memorial.

Christine joined me for the tour of the Isandlwana battlefield but had had enough so didn’t join me on the  Rork’s Drift tour, a pity as our guide, a South African that had spent 12-years in the British army and done several tours to conflict zones including Afghanistan, Iraq and Northern Ireland and could  empathise with what these soldiers were going through.   This feeling came out in his dialogue and Brad and I both felt quite emotional at these events; the level of detail he went to was quite extraordinary; best historical tour so far.

Whilst I was enjoying myself, Christine lounged about the pool and did some laundry; as she said, “a woman’s work is never done”!!!!!

All my pre-conceived ideas about the Anglo-Zulu wars have been completely shaken up and I’m glad I now have the correct information; I just hope I don’t forget it all!!!

I was very satisfied and glad we made the detour though poor Christine had to suffer it; still I visited the Botanical Gardens with her in Cape Town!!!

From the excellent library terrace here at Fugitive Drift you can see down to the Buffalo river and just make out the drift. I was flummoxed about the word “drift” but soon realised it was South African for “ford”, a shallow crossing of a river.  The walkways around the property are long decks, but the handrails are not safe to hold onto; “health and safety, what health and safety”??  At the back of the pool there is a pretty “sheer drop” to the river, no railings!!!!  What the hell, quite happy to get back to how things used to be in UK.

The food here is nice, and certainly more conventional than the food we had in Shamwari but naturally the ambience is not in their league, but we enjoyed. our time here.   During the afternoon of Sunday we even had a monkey turn up on our verandah, but as we moved he shot off.

Our next stop in Johannesburg, a six hour drive, just hope it’s not on all unmade roads.

Friday 19 December 2025

After a jolly good “long” night’s sleep we were ready to head to Fugitive Drift, a 4.5 hours drive away, but first breakfast and retrieve the cat from the garage.

Once we checked out we stepped into the carpark lift and once out headed to the car, but oh dear, no car!!!   We were right by the entrance where we drove in so scratched our heads.  Perhaps they moved it to the carpark on the other level so walked there and walked all around, no car!!!   This is silly, let’s go back down and re-check, but no, not there.  By now panic was beginning to set in so methodically went to every parking space to check, definitely no car!!!   By chance there were a couple of workman who informed us there was another entrance going to a different floor!!!   So up, or down, not sure which, we found this mystery floor and sure enough there was the car, just where we left it and low and behold, a different entrance which was concealed when we arrived!!!   Panic over and we headed off.

We had instructions how to get to Fugitive Drift but they started at Durban airport and didn’t fancy going back so followed WAZE.   Waze is very good if you can see the screen as well as listen to her but we don’t have a cradle for it so it sits on Christine’s lap making things awkward at times causing us to take a wrong turning and we did, right in the middle of major roadworks, compounded by heavy traffic caused by an accident!!!    Good old WAZE, it sorted us out.

For the first hour or so it was wide roads, reasonably straight and minimal traffic, for the next couple of hours we were off the N roads and onto an R roads, here it was one carriageway in each direction necessitating overtakes, and there lays the problem.   Quite a lot of traffic crawls along and much of the traffic is impatient and just wants to get going.   Solid double white lines don’t seem to mean anything out here in the bush and if that isn’t enough, there are potholes everywhere, not to mention the cows, goats, pigs and a couple of sheep roaming about the road.   It was like driving a “dodgem car” with so much being thrown at you!!!

Next the “cherry on the top” road, the “P” road, well we had over an hour on this un-made road, and the pot holes just got enormous and in places the rains had washed the roads away and we driving over ditches and exposed rocks, proper “4×4 territory”, our poor Toyota struggled, bottoming regularly and drive wheels spinning occasionally.   At time we got up to the heady speed of 40-kph but many 4-kph.  (Note to self, must drive a 4×4 next time).  We drove through several very busy and bustling townships but decided not to stop as we were the only white people!!!

Eventually we arrived, in the middle of nowhere (of course) to a scruffy gate with a solitary security guard and his security hut, plus a good old fashioned clip board.   He checked us against his list, gave us a letter from the office and asked us to write our details on his clipboard!!!

The letter was welcome news as It informed us we’d been upgraded to the lodge from the guesthouse, very nice.

Arriving at the complex we were surrounded by staff welcoming us, taking our bags and giving us a rundown of everything then showed us to our lodge.   This is quite different from Shamwari, this is set amongst a lot of trees, quite tropical in fact but our lodge has a splendid view from the big patio door window.

Once established we headed for afternoon tea but we were alone, no one else came!!!   Anyway everybody gathers around the “camp-fire” for social drinks and sundown; let’s hope we met other guests then🤞🤞

The main reason for coming here was for the battlefield-tours, more on that in next post.  This is also a small game reserve so may see more Giraffes etc., but none of the big five!!

The drinks around the camp fire never actually materialised, Fugitive Drift only had four lodges in use so the 8-of us stayed by the bar before heading to the communal dining table.   There was a Canadian couple, an English couple from Norfolk, a father and son from Johannesburg and us, plus the lodge’s hostess for the evening.   Unfortunately being one long table, socialising wasn’t very good and we spent much of the time chatting with the Father and his 8-year old so son.  He described it as a Father and Son “away weekend” as both were very interested in history and walking battlefields in particular.  We will get to know them better tomorrow as only the four of us are doing the tour

Thursday 18th December 2025

The alarm went off at the crack of dawn and not being sure of airport requirements left the hotel at 0600hrs, collecting our breakfast boxes on the way.    Apart from a couple of “U” turns along the way oops!!! We were there within 10-minutes, returned  the hire car, checked in, and no queue as we were so early, and waited!!!!!

The flight was on a small jet, and it was very comfortable taking a little over an hour to get to Durban International airport; a big difference from the port Elizabeth airport.   Our bags came through very quickly and we headed to the EuRopcar office to collect our car and hope we don’t suffer the same issues re locking the car🤞🤞.

Arriving at our hotel , 4-hours before regular check-in was going to be fun, but what luck, our room was ready, yeah.  We are both tired and it’s raining so very happy we could get straight in.   This afternoon we have a pre-booked high tea so rested in our room until the time arrived.

By the time we headed to the “Oyster Box Hotel” for an afternoon “high” tea the weather had cleared up, no rain though cloudy.   We headed down to the beach for a quick “gander” then back to our pre-booked afternoon tea.

The Oyster Box Hotel in Umblanga, (Durban) began as the “Oyster Lodge” built n 1863 serving as an navigational aid.  The new owners transferred into a tea garden in 1952 and  then a hotel in 1954 and it became famous for its seaside charm and red and white hooped lighthouse nearby.   In 2006 the Oyster Box changed hands and between  2007-2009, A significant rebuild took place, blending original features (like the grand entrance and tiles) with modern luxury.  In 2009 the hotel reopened, retaining its iconic 1950s charm with 5 star luxury.

Just walking through the security entrance with barriers and into the formal front gardens oozed luxury and as you walked through the impressive entrance with about 6-doorman on hand and all dressed smartly in old “colonial styled” uniforms just confirmed it; in fact we felt decidedly underdressed!!!

We were escorted to the where high tea takes place then escorted to our table, and at this point was glad Janet had pre-booked us a table, it was very busy.

Looking around the opulence and the food that was laid out for patrons to help themselves and encouraged to indulge in was pretty spectacular, needless to say we did our best.   Fine bone china was used throughout, servers cleared an empty plate to encourage you to start again, hot, and cold savoury’s, sushi and cakes of all descriptions were waiting to be enjoyed!!!!   The whole procedure was accompanied by a pianist.

After a couple of hours of “gross indulgence”, we waddled back to our hotel feeling decidedly fat; what have we done???

Back in our room we did nothing but moaned about what we had just done😤😤.  We will have to fast (ha ha) tomorrow; and just like the lions we’ve seen after a big meal, curled up and went to sleep!!!

Wednesday 17th December 2025

All good things come to an end and our experience at Shamwari Game Reserve is no exception so reluctantly we decided not to do the Safari this morning but have a bit of a lie in and take our time.   Had we gone we would have been in a rush as checkout is 1100hrs.

Able came and joined us for breakfast again which was very nice, perhaps I “over-egged” the tip!!   The Reserve “big cheese” Director, Joe who we met last night at dinner, also came specially over to say good bye as well!!!!!  

Back in our room for the last time to complete our packing and at 1100hrs I rang reception for a porter and the moment I’d put the ‘phone back in it’s cradle, there was a knock on the door; the porters and cleaning staff were waiting outside for us to leave!!!!

It was nice at reception not to have any bill to pay, I like this fully inclusive, it’s a shame I hadn’t had a great thirst on me😩😩.   The luggage was loaded into our transfer vehicle and we headed to the main gate to collect our car.   With so many large fierce animals around, safety of the guests is the first priority.

Back on the road still chatting about what we had experienced we headed to Port Elizabeth, ready for an early flight to Durban tomorrow.

Arriving a tad early we had to wait for our room but once we got in, “wow”, Janet you’ve done it again, this is more a one bedroom flat!!!!  Shame we’re only here for the one night.

We ventured out but didn’t find Port Elizabeth very exciting, we wandered through the Large Mall and along the promenade and slipped into a KFC; we’d been living the highlife where food was concerned and just fancied something “plain-n-simple” for a change and by Jove it did the job.  Margaret suggested a visit to Barney’s Tavern but it looked closed and the Ginger Restaurant at the beach hotel was too posh for our dress code so that’s for another time.   We did laugh at the pavement in one place; health and safety hasn’t come to Port Elizabeth judging by the two uncovered holes, perhaps a local took the covers to sell as scrap metal!!!!

Back at the hotel and after arranging a “boxed” breakfast headed to our “palatial” suite; will set alarm for 0530hrs!!!!

Monday 15th Tuesday 16th 2025

Where do we start.   This place is fantastic, safari’s are special, food is excellent, service is impeccable and accommodation is un-believable.   Though this is a fully inclusive deal, there is no holding back on quality of both food or booze, though French Champagne is an extra charge!!!, we did without that!!!

The days follow the same pattern, one gets up at stupid hour and heads off to the pool bar to meet up with Abel, our personal ranger and enjoy a coffee or tea or alcohol if preferred before heading out to find the wildlife.  Upon your return around 0930hrs you head to breakfast, a 3-course extravaganza after which you could head to the pool bar for coffee and cakes!!!!  Lunch starts around 1300hrs, a selection of Tapas etc., and once finished, afternoon tea is available in the pool bar. When 1600hrs comes, so do the rangers to take us on Safari again.  Back at the lodge for 1930hrs ready for a full-blown dinner with as much quality wine as anybody would wish to drink, then off to bed to start all over again at 0500hrs; quite exhausting.

Our lodge, a separate building with its own pathway and entrance has everything you can think of to make your stay here comfortable, (https://www.shamwari.com/) and a spectacular view through patio doors across the bush.  We were warned about locking up because of the monkeys, but we haven’t had a visit whilst we’ve been in our lodge though we have seen  them flying about the estate gardens etc.

Now what most of us are here for, to see wild animals in their natural habitat and this game reserve apparently has “the lot”, it is down to the ranger to spot them and Abel was very “eagle-eyed” which was fortunate as we didn’t always spot them hiding in or behind a bush.

The vast area of this game reserve is criss-crossed with vehicle tracks up hills, down valleys and vast plains, and to our untrained eye, how the hell does he know where he is!!!  He doesn’t follow a prescribed route, no he just uses his 27-years experience of this reserve, his tracking skills and instincts. and if no trail, he just drives through the undergrowth in his quest to show his clients everything.  At times he just stops the vehicle, closes his eyes and listens and after a few moments he starts the vehicle again and we are off in a totally different direction and finds something!!!!

As I said in the last post, we saw 4 out of the big five, well that was only to wet our lips.  Over the four other safaris we have been up close and personal with everything.  We’ve seen several prides of lions at different points, including their cubs and so close, that if one were stupid enough, one could very nearly stretch out and pat one on the head!!!!  

As for rhinos, they are plentiful and again if we approach slowly and switch off they are not bothered, they just keep eating, in fact on a couple occasions we have been right up close to a mother and her calf.  The fully grown rhinos are tagged for the reserve to know where they are at all times, but night-time in particular, as poaching is still rife in Africa.  As we were returning to our lodge at dusk, there was a vehicle approaching us and we passed each other the two drivers passed greetings and chatted for a few minutes.   When we started off again I asked Able who they were, as they  headed off into the bush at dusk, the reply was security police to catch the poachers.   With the tags, they know where to patrol at night; technology put to good use.  The female horns are longer and thinner, used to protect their young whilst the male’s are shorter and stockier used for fighting!!!

Elephants; ah yes graceful elephants, magnificent sight to see them in their habitat and again on numerous occasions, bulls, cows and calves all minding their own business though being one of the big five, we know they can be dangerous but again as long as we don’t point the vehicle at them, they don’t feel threatened.  Able always positioned the safari vehicle side on, never head on as this threatens most animals, the headlamps look like eyes to them!!!   On one occasion we spotted a solitary bull slowly but deliberately walking straight and Able said he was heading for water, so we went round him to get to the water hole before him and wait.   Able said “watch his face as he arrives at a dry hole”, which we did and he was right, his expression changed form anticipation to disappointment, but somehow he managed to suck-up sufficient before heading to his back-up hole!!!

Buffalo’s weren’t that easy to find, though we did find some but couldn’t get that close to them; fearsome looking beasts with its long curved horns, but fortunately minding their own business!!!

The last of the big five, the leopard was a cunning beast, he hid from us and that’s what they do, we didn’t get a chance to photograph one so we were very disappointed.   The good news though, and by chance we spotted a cheetah, what a beautifully streamlined animal, no wonder it is so fast but not one of the big five as they don’t have the strength to attack a human being; I don’t want to push my luck when you see. Its teeth!!!!   We came across her looking through the fence dividing our reserve from the adjacent one, where there was a male cheetah the other side of this pretty secure electrified fence. There are several game reserves in this area of South Africa and the main reason is to prevent too much in-breeding which will eventually kill-off the various species.  Males of each animal get moved around so new genes are introduced, all part of the overall objective to protect each species for future generations; very commendable.

Zebras everywhere, and they are extremely difficult to approach, they scamper off at the slightest thing as they are easy prey for the lions.   In fact we came across a dead one that looked as if it had been killed an hour or so earlier so Able tracked the predator who had done this and we found a lioness sleeping after a hearty meal!!!   We went back the following day and since our first visit, a leg and other bits had gone and again we tracked the lion.this time it lead us to a big male with his two lioness’, the tell tale sign was blood on his feet!!!   We returned 12-hrs later and many more flesh eaters had had a go as there wasn’t too much left of that zebra; oh well, that’s the pecking order in nature.

Giraffes are everywhere, but not too close to there hated predator, the lions!! Giraffes are easy to spot, standing above the bushes and trees.   Again we’ve got as close as we could but not as close as the lions due to their nervous nature.  The females round up all the calves into a “nursery” to protect and teach them about life whilst the males eat and keep an eye out for trouble

Antelopes and Springboks are everywhere and are fair game along with zebra for the meat-eating predators as none of the animals get fed, nature takes care of everything though there is a vet on hand should there be a medical issue with any of them.  Generally where we come across numbers of antelopes, zebras and Giraffes, there are no lions around, so these four legged chunks of meat can eat and sense danger.

Wart Hogs were abundant and not very pretty plus difficult to get near so didn’t spend time with them!!!   What were in abundance were termite mounds, large and small everywhere and Able actually got out of the vehicle to explain that “mound-building” terminates are a species that live in mounds which are made of a combination of soil, termite saliva and dung. These termites live in Africa as well as other countries, the larger mounds here are about a meter in diameter at the base with a dome shaped top. Most of the mounds are in well-drained areas and termite mounds usually outlive the colonies themselves. If the inner tunnels of the nest are exposed, the mound is usually dead. I asked why Able took a stick to chat about termite mounds, apparently some of these mounds harbour snakes, many are venomous; glad we didn’t get out!!!

As we headed out on our last Safari and it was very overcast and rain was expected, we just hoped we’d get away with it🤞🤞.  We were also accompanied by another group of four👹, but hey, we did have 4-other safaris on our own😁😁.  Today is our last chance to try and find the two elusive habitants that have eluded us; the Leopard and the Hippocampus, so headed to the Bushman’s river, but Able said “they don’t like this weather and will most probably hide in the river” ??, but the leopard is really illusive so don’t get your expectations to high!!!

We hadn’t noticed the big Bushman’s river we went to this time as it isn’t generally the best place to see everything, including the Hippo’s, their normal habitat is a “creek” that we’ve passed several times but no Hippo. Able knew how badly we wanted this viewing, so hence our trip to the river, but again, disappointment.   Due to the rain now falling and the steep tracks that were now becoming muddy and slippery, we couldn’t go down so tried to find them with our binoculars; needless to say haystack and needle came to mind though eventually we spotted for a fleeting second, two eyes sticking up from the water.   “Sorry” he said,”that’s the best I can do today”; as he had told us on many occasions, if we want to guarantee a viewing, head to the zoo, but to see them in their natural habitat, come on a safari.  He was a great guide and a nice chap as well, but spoke his mind, he obviously had a great respect and admiration for the wild animals and accepted the cycle of killing for food etc.   

The rain was steadily falling but we detoured to our dead Zebra to see how much was left, more than expected.  Able’s reasoning for this was the pride of Lions we’d met the previous day (male and 2-females) who we suspected of killing the Zebra had another pressing agenda item.   His two concubines were ready to mate but were playing hard to get!!!  So they just ate enough to keep going!!!   We did go and visit them again so the other 4-could see them but the lady got quite nervous at the prospect of getting too close, so we stayed away👹.  Surely that’s why you go on a Safari??   By now it was teaming down and we were wet and getting cold so Able hotfooted it back to base.

This reserve and others offer a microcosm of Africa, representing how things were before the Europeans arrived and basically “buggered” nature up.  One can see the exciting big game right down to termites and everything in between including small tortoises running around, yes running, these move quite quickly!!!    

Shamwari game reserve stands in a class of its own. Apparently it has been voted the best game reserve and conservation company in South Africa for 10 consecutive years and has become a favourite among international celebrities.  eg, Golfer Tiger Woods got engaged here, and actors Brad Pitt, Nicolas Cage and John Travolta have all visited Shamwari in the past few years, as have the Pages😎🤠.    Shamwari Game Reserve not only boasts Africa’s most sought-after Big 5 animals, it also aims to rehabilitate an ecosystem almost destroyed by centuries of farming. Situated along the Bushman’s River, the area also supports a stunning variety of flora and fauna. Because of the focus on responsible tourism, the reserve has received the Global Nature Fund Award for Best Conservation Practice.  

Both British TV series: “Safari School” and Animal Planet programme ‘“Shamwari: A Wild Life” were filmed here, showcasing this magnificent reserve to an international audience and yes I would like to re-visit if we have time in the future.