Oldies On Tour

Friday 16th February 2024

We woke up this morning and it was tipping down, first rain since leaving U.K. but the dogs still had to go out, well done Christine.   Of course this rain changed everything as it was forecasted to continue all day so sadly we changed our minds on our “touristy” things, we will have to come back some time in the future.   Also, and against our better judgment, we decided to have the hotel breakfast; Christine was fuming at the charge for breakfast but with everything closed we had little alternative.   The exorbitant charge would have been acceptable if the breakfast choice was comprehensive, we’ve enjoyed better selections in far lesser hotels at more realistic prices.   Naturally we paid for the surroundings, chandeliers from the ceilings and a spacious area but it would have been perfect, “no moaning” had the quality of what was available also been 5*.   The “only” choice for “hot food”, and I use the term “hot” sarcastically were congealed mushrooms, hard scrambled eggs and what purported to be sausages, sitting on a hot plate that was either not working properly or switched off.   When Christine’s pointed out the fact the the food was cold, all the lady in charges did was go to the three pans, stir the contents and walk off; total disregard towards their guest.   This was a shame as we had, up till then, enjoyed our stay at the 5* “Belfry and Spa Hotel” here in Lourdes.

Scooter back in the car followed by everything else and still raining, we decided to just get on our way and come back another time.

We cleared the hotel around 1100hrs and headed straight into the foothills of the Pyrenees, a bold decision being winter using a lesser main road but with all this rain we decided to go.

Driving along we noticed that nearly every village sign we passed was upside down.  I had noticed this a couple of times on previous days but hadn’t thought anything about it, but today it was consistent, every village we passed through had their entry and exit sign upside down.   What a strange thing we thought so Christine googled this and low and behold these actions are deliberate, they have been taken by the French Farmers, part of their protests against the Brussels bureaucracy and the new regulations that are coming to all farmers across the eu.

After the leaving the foothills we started the climb, still raining.   The tortuous route was very scenic and quite exhilarating, though Christine being on the outside wasn’t too happy, there was a regular call to “slow down”!!!!!   This road, not only being very twisty, it was quite narrow, the sort of road common back in the 50’s before increased traffic called for big roads and duel carriageways, still it was one of the “lesser” routes across the Pyrenees; I was enjoying myself though!!!!   As we climbed with the rain still coming we were parallel with the clouds and at some points above them until everything eventually settled, we were above the snow-line.  No rain, yeah🤣🤣🤣 oh no, it’s been replace by snow😡😡😡 but fortunately the roads had previously been salted so as it snowed the road became slushy.

We eventually reached the top and it had stoped  snowing, the sun was out with a brilliant blue sky and we stopped in the enormous “empty” car park close to several ski-lifts and gave the dogs a run-round.   Rosie was fascinated by the snow but all Tom-Tom wanted was to run after the ball and do his “doings”.   We knew Andorra was a big ski resort but were surprised haw many ski lifts rather were, no doubt a lesser known ski centre but a ski centre all the same and used mainly by the locals.

Once we started our descent three important things happened; the roads on the Spanish side were far better, the snow and rain had stopped and most importantly, it was clear blue skies and very, very sunny; yeah!!!! 

We had pre-booked a hotel in a small village called Burbaguena, a few miles south of Zaragoza, nothing special as it was a quick stop, but reading the reports on trip advisor the consensus was “good value for money” and “excellent” food.   We eventually pulled into this-out-of-the-way place around 1530 and whilst checking in asked if we could have some food, only to be informed the kitchen stops at 1500hrs.   OK, we will eat tonight only to be told, “as we hadn’t booked a meal there was no available table”!!   Right; is there a restaurant around here? No, but we may find somewhere in one of two adjacent small towns, about 10kms away in opposite directions; no help here as he concluded the booking-in process.      To be fair to the chap, he was running around like a headless chicken; the restaurant was very “full, (good sign) and he was the barman, the waiter, the receptionist and clearer-upper.     Disgruntled, we headed back to the car and drove to one of the towns, a small, old walled town, very pretty but couldn’t find a restaurant, either open or closed, but we did find a Carrefour Express open so swallowed hard and bought some cold meats, cheese and bread to eat in the room later.  We also filled up with fuel, “Spanish prices”, 👍.

Back to the hotel I took our overnight stuff and food bag upstairs, whilst Christine headed out with the dogs.  Ver pay conveniently there is a cycle track that looks like a deserted railway line running through the hotel grounds, win, win in that department!!!

Around 1900hrs I popped downstairs to get a bottle when the guy we had had dealings earlier suddenly offered us a table.   We think the back story to this is: as we were heading out earlier and disgruntled, we bumped into a lady coming in the door who was friendly and welcomed us to her establishment.   Now we “think” she is part owner with the guy who previously said “no tables available”, and seeing us unhappy probably asked the question after we had left.   We put two and two together, we accepted his offer for a table tonight!!!

Though this establishment, the sort of place you would drive straight past when looking from the outside, was heaving and apart from us and another English couple, was full of Spanish; good recommendation.

Christine had a very tasty and cooked to perfection Solomillo, and I enjoyed a whole Pulpo, excellent and their wine list seemed to cover everything.  We are so glad we got to eat there, the reports were right, the food was excellent and as one would expect in an out of the way place, affordable.   Our bedroom was a different story. Yes we had a nice balcony and it was a good sized room with two singles, but the drains in the bathroom honked, we decided we would give the shower a miss!!!

This place, it is what it is, a convenient night stop for transiting Spain with good reputation for excellent food, would we use it again??, the jury is out but possibly🤔🤔, it is certainly an ideal place with dogs and a bargain at £43 per night

Thursday 15th February 2024

No rush this morning as we are only heading to Lourdes; 3.5 hrs away with Peage, 4.5 without, so Peage it was. Christine took the dogs to the park, at 7am, to give them a good walk before we travelled.

Today the sun was shining, skies were blue and the temperature had risen, all on cue 😁😁😁.  We shared the driving but I was at the wheel as we entered Lourdes.  Neither of us had any idea about the place other than it was a place of pilgrimage for many; not to sure if it will help my knee though!!!  We entered the narrow streets and found our hotel, again a dog friendly one in the centre of town, there was just one fundamental difference.  This was no ordinary hotel, oh no, Christine had booked a 5* Spa Hotel and when we arrived she seemed surprised it was a 5* one; yeah!!!!!   We knew it was up-market the moment we walked into the grand lobby area, no desk just one enormous, highly polished table with comfortable chairs for us to sit in whilst the formal proceedings were taken care of.   We were then shown the facilities; the restaurant, the Gym, the indoor pool, sauna and steam room and not least, the “bank” of jacuzzis before being escorted to our room, with a balcony but no view.  Our view was the street below☹️☹️.

We hadn’t eaten since breakfast and fancied a snack to put us on.  We made the decision not to eat in the hotel so headed out, down the hill towards the fast flowing river, “Gave de Pau”.  It soon became obvious I would struggle so headed back to the car to get the scooter (named Solo) out, and off we went again.   Looking for somewhere to get a snack was a challenge, everywhere was closed for the winter, but eventually we found two places, an ice cream parlour and a cafe, this was our choice and though it wasn’t raining, it was cold so the cafe was the place we entered.   To be fair the ham and cheese panini we had were nice and fresh, so not all bad, though we did wonder if we would find a restaurant to have a meal later this evening, “open” 🤔🤔.

Now we were on our way to search for the mythical woodland the receptionist thought would be suitable for the dogs.  Where the mythical woodland was located turned out to be a rather large carpark for a hotel closed for the winter!!!  Anyway it sufficed, the dogs had a good run.   On the way back Christine decided we had taken the wrong turning on our way to the mythical woods and headed up another hill to search for them; she returned rather crestfallen, as I had said, they were a myth!!!

Back at the hotel we headed to the spa area, giving the gym a wide berth, found the pool and in we went.   The pool was in a rather unusual surrounding, down in the basement of the hotel and to enhance its size, the surrounding  walls and ceiling were all mirrors; interesting.   Next the Jacuzzi, they were just outside on an adjacent patio, two were free so in we hopped, turned the heat up more, and enjoyed a nice long relaxing soak.   Eventually, and after we were wrinkled back inside we went and tried the steam room.  We were not impressed; too big and never got very steamy so headed for the sauna.  Again disappointed, electric and no coals to pour water over so didn’t get enough heat, oh well one can’t have everything, or can we??  Trip advisor will be interesting!!!!

Back in the room where we had left the dogs we sorted ourselves out and headed off to find a restaurant.  We had looked at the hotel menus but were not impressed with the choices or the 5* pricing that went with it for that matter.

Having been down the hill earlier when we also scouted for restaurants, but apart from an “African Food” street place, nothing was open so this time we headed up the hill into the town area.   The choice of places was very limited, everything was closed so after walking or in my case, riding up and down all likely streets we found a Chinese open.  Note to self, keep out of Lourdes in the winter, still we did laugh about it all later.    The Chinese, certainly not on our list of places to go was actually very nice and his wine selection was great so not all bad, and they let us take the dogs in.

Tomorrow we head “over” the Pyrenees, fingers crossed no snow🤞🤞but first we have to do some of the touristy things and visit the “Sanctuary of our Lady of Lourdes” made famous by the “Apparitions” that occurred in 1858.   Naturally I was also hoping for a miracle cure!!!!! See the caves and if time allows, get up to the Chateau Fort, high up on the rocky hill overlooking the town

Wednesday 14th February 

Today we are heading to Cognac.   10-years ago Christine took me to a restaurant in Cognac that was so good, we keep talking about it and as today is our anniversary and we are around the area, why not.   The decision was made a few weeks ago but first we had to look back on “Oldies on Tour” to get the name and address; thats what “Oldies” is about, a memory jog!!!  So whilst sorting out our itinerary I had pre-booked a table, just as well as it is Valentine’s Day.

Leaving Orleans mid morning we head south, this time via the Peage as it saved an hours driving and arrived in Cognac about 4-hours later and booked into our hotel.  Again we had pre-booked this hotel as it was very close to the centre, had car parking facilities and more importantly, was dog friendly, they allowed dogs in the room.

Once settled and after some local research, discovered a large park near the centre of town behind the museum and tourist office, 8-minutes walk away so headed off.

The entrance to these gardens was through a grand arch, part of the aforementioned imposing building, originally a private mansion built by the Dupuy Family, local merchants in the 1838.   The gardens behind were also designed in the late 1800’s and the two were brought together circa 50-years ago.

Walking through the arch, the first thing that comes into view is a very ornate duck pond full of all kinds of wild foul.   Our first question was obvious, “can we let the dogs off the lead here”?  We walked on past an open air theatre and following one of several paths came onto a very large grass area; perfect!!!   The dog “ball-thrower” went into overdrive; we were still waiting to know if we could take the dogs into the restaurant tonight, but either way they needed to crash out.   When we headed back to the hotel they were exhausted, good job done.

Heading back, we stopped for a drink in the centre, in the “Place Francois 1er”, it was very quiet, hardly anywhere open and what a contrast to last time, back then It was heaving, the centre of everything, very vibrant, oh well it is winter.

Back in our room we prepared for our anniversary dinner, hoping we are not disappointed, after all a lot can change in 10-years, different owner, gone down market due to economic circumstances etc., so fingers crossed.   As agreed during an earlier ‘phone call, we rang back to see if we were allowed to take the dogs and to our delight the answer was yes, win win.

Our memory of this restaurant, “Bistro de Claude” was that it was situated in a narrow, high stone walled cobbled street in the old part of Cognac, on a hill heading down to the river Charente, and according to Google maps, was a 9-minute walk away.   Our booking was for 1930hrs so set off at the appropriate time.    This evening we got out of our holiday clothes and made “the effort” but poor Christine, deciding heels were appropriate hadn’t considered the cobbled streets.  Our 9-minute walk took a little longer as she navigated the uneven street surface, and it was all the way!!!

Like our last visit we were the first to arrive, very eerie but no sooner had we sat down and settled the dogs under the table, people arrived.  Being Valentine’s night, it was a set, 5-course gourmet meal starting with a pink champagne.    As per our last visit the place was heaving with a good atmosphere, and though we were disappointed we couldn’t go off their “a La carte” menu, we enjoyed the food provided and naturally this was accompanied by a first class Burgundy.

A couple of hours is so later we paid and sorted ourselves, interestingly none of the other diners had any idea we had two dogs under the table judging by their comments and finger pointing as we left.   A testimony to good discipline and wearing them out beforehand!!!    Outside the temperature had dropped and poor Christine had to walk back on those cobblestones with Tom-Tom and Rosie pulling after two hours plus of in-activity!!!

Back at the hotel we went to the car park, a gated and safe area to give the dogs some more ball throwing just to ensure we had a peaceful night.

Our conclusions about the restaurant:-  Very pleased we went, we weren’t disappointed with the quality of the food just that being Valentine’s night it was a set menu at an grossly inflated price.   We will go again, but not on a recognised special day so we can choose what we eat.