Up and away today after a “far-too-short-a-visit”, we’re now heading off to St. Agnes for the next few days and after breakfast we set about clearing up and stowing everything away. The only minor issue is we have to be out of this site by 1100hrs and can’t get into St. Agnes site until 1400hrs and the journey only takes an hour!!!
All set up, ready to explore
Today is another bright and sunny morning, typical the day we are moving, so we managed to stretch the 1100hrs out which helped our timings a little and then decided to stop for an early lunch in a lay-by along the route.
Even have a sea view!
Arriving at our next site was painless a little after 1400hrs and set up our pitch. Because the forecast is for better weather we went the full-hog, groundsheet, wind break and set up the bar-b-q, hoping the appropriate weather to spend time outside.
High tide, with big waves
With time running on we headed to the nearest beach, Chapel Porth, a small cove a 1.5 miles away but to our dismay, no beach, it was high tide!!! Not too dismayed we went on the coastal footpath though we did have an ice cream which included clotted cream on top, scrumptious. Not having a ball today the two pooches made the most of the steep banks and again turned into mountain goats though they did find a fresh water stream running down to the sea.
More country paths, Cornwall is a stunning place
Back to our new campsite for dinner, a spot of tv and bed, we’re off to do some exploring tomorrow
Today our plan is to visit Tintagel and the castle, 22-miles to our north but through Cornish country lanes, about an hour away.
To set us up for the day Christine produced yet another “full English”; I hadn’t realised our fridge was so spacious with all the food being produced and we haven’t even been shopping!!!
Fully replete and after a few chores, we set off through the Cornish lanes and arrived at Tintagel an hour later, found a car park that had just one space left; again the place was heaving.
A long walk before we arrive at castle
A few days ago we decided to join English Heritage and Tintagel Castle is the first ancient monument we are visiting. What we hadn’t realised is the position and more importantly the walk to get to it from the car park, this walk was certainly putting my new knee to the test,
Amazing views from top
deep-end stuff or what??? Just under a mile to walk down a “very” step hill, fortunately there are resting benches at regular intervals, a “must” for those walking up!! Anyway we reached the entrance, not quite at the bottom and entered the remains of Tintagel Castle built by Richard, first Earl of Cornwall in the 13th Century the second son (spare!!) of King John. This castle was built in a precarious outcrop, a small island standing out in the sea and joined by a narrow strip of land. Of course the strip of land was eventually eroded away and today we only have the remains of the original walls accessed buy a modern cantilever bridge.
However there is a small natural harbour below and during the Middle Ages, it was busy trading with countries around the Mediterranean but especially with south Wales; Welsh coal for Cornish slate. The exit from the remains on the island is down a very, vert steep staircase carved out of the rock, fortunately there is a strong bannister alongside to help the descent. Upon exiting you walk over a more traditional wooden bridge to get to the exhibition building, shop and cafe where we indulged in a cream tea!!!!!
Crossing the bridgeRemains of entrance to castle
Whilst walking down the hill we noticed a couple of Land rovers heading back up full of people, ah we thought!!! After out tea we headed up the road and there was the queue for the ride back and we joined it; probably the best £6 we spent, what a hill!!!
Steps to get down, some nice man took dogs for me, as they were pulling to get down
Anyway back in Tintagel we headed to the “Old Post Office”, a grade 1 listed, old stone house dating back to 14th Century with a lovely garden at the back overlooking the countryside. Over the centuries this building has been many things but the name that sticks is the Old Post Office. It was divided into several rooms all with big fireplaces and low beams to bang your head on!!!
Long and winding hill to climb!
The overriding theme of Tintagel is their association with the legend of King Arthur and his knights of the round table made famous by numerous writers and poets over the years. There are many references to the myth such as the “Merlin Arms”, the “Camelot Castle Hotel”, the “King Arthur Cafe” and various other references to the myths and legend all of which has made Tintagel a tourist “hot-spot”; still we had an enjoyable visit.
The old post office
The nearest beach to us is “Porthcothan” so headed there to give the dogs a good run round. Yes they had been on the go most of the day ie no sleep but they had been on leads most of the time so it was a chance for them to have a run about. He best bit of this beach is the fresh water lagoon at one end, an ideal place to wash the sea salt out of their coats after running in and out of the sea.
One of the bedrooms
Back to Rosie for dinner after a very enjoyable day
Awoken by the dogs barking this morning, probably due to more people visiting the camp site as it’s the weekend. The good news is the sun was shining with hardly a cloud in the sky, and as we’re out this evening, no rush today, also being so nice and sunny, shorts are the order of the day.
Love these coves, so pretty
After breakfast we headed to the dog friendly beach at Mawgan Porth. This pretty cove about 5-miles away from us has a large beach which allows dogs on it all year round, so expected to see numerous dogs chasing about!!!! This is also a favourite beach for surfers and includes a surf school and has a manned RNLI patrol vehicle parked at the waters edge, “just-in-case”.
Being the weekend there was more traffic to contend with in the narrow lanes, therefore it took longer to get there but in spite of this, the car park was reasonably empty when we arrived though there seemed to be far too many people meandering about for the cars parked!!!
Still running!
Holding the pooches back as we walked to the beach was interesting, they were so excited all discipline had gone out of the window and the moment we hit the sand and released them, they were gone. The ball thrower went into overtime and still they came back for more, and more, and more, our arms were feeling it more than the dogs!!! Being a weekend and with reasonably warm sunshine, there were many families making the most of the beach, not to mention the number of dogs, all running in every direction, it was nice to see. We even found “that rock” we all want to sit on to admire the view whilst TT & R still kept running,
After an hour and a half we headed back to base for lunch but first Christine gave the dogs a shower, much to their disgust, but at least they will dry in the sunshine!!!
Rick Stein flagship restaurant
Our booking at Rick Stein’s seafood Restaurant in Padstow is early evening so a leisurely afternoon before getting ready to go out. We had already viewed the restaurant and decided shorts and tee shirt was not the right attire, so donned smart clothes and headed to Padstow. Again the place was buzzing and parking spaces were sparse but did find one right outside our venue; lucky or what? We were a little early so popped into the pub for a quick drink before entering the “posh” restaurant where we were immediately shown to our table and looked forward to an excellent experience.
Amazing experience!
Christine had originally booked a table here for a date in May as my birthday treat, but for several reasons we couldn’t come so she transferred the booking to tonight and now it’s my “belated” birthday treat, and I have had several months to look forward to it, we are finally here.
Forgot to take photo when food arrived
Drinks and appetisers of Oysters and Padrons on their way and then we set about studying the interesting menus. We could see why one has to book months in advance, it was extremely popular and their service was slick; as soon as a table became available it was cleaned up in seconds and ready for the next customer and just like magic, they appeared: there were a lot of staff about.
Ambiance, food, drink, excellent but a tad expensive!
Being Rick Stein’s seafood restaurant, naturally we had fish: Crab and Scallops to start and a Dover Sole each, though cooked differently. Our efficient waitress was from Madrid so we had a bit of a laugh and got to practice some Spanish. When Christine booked, we were informed each booking is for a two hour slot but with their speed and efficiency this was more than sufficient, though we must confess we did not feel rushed at any point.
Feeling well satisfied Christine drove us home. Thank you Christine for a culinary delight that will stay in my mind forever.
Arriving back at the camp sight where the dogs went berserk, anyone would think we had left them for a week or so!!!. No night cap tonight as we had enjoyed superb wine and I had had several excellent large, and very dry martinis to start!!
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Today we are doing something touristy, we are heading to Par, and particularly Par Beach, near St Austell, by train!! But first and to set us up for the day Christine excelled herself and we had a full-on English Breakfast, black pudding naturally🥰🥰.
We arrived at Newquay station with plenty of time to catch the train and even get a coffee before boarding but then we ran into a “wobble”. Half the car park had been cordoned off as there were building works going on, so no space. We turned around to head out and “lady-Luck” struck, someone was just leaving as we were about head out at the exit, result. Then we had to pay, well naturally it was on the ‘phone but neither of us had this app so we had to go through the process of registering; the bottom line was we had to run to catch the train and missed out on our coffee!!!
Play time
It was a very pleasant 50-minute run from Newquay to Par, not a heritage line but a normal GWR service, so we could use one OAP travel cards. The interesting thing is our return journey for two, was £8.50, no charge for the dogs: Our car park charge for 8-hrs was £10.70, how does that work!!!!
We arrived at Par Station (actually on time!!) and headed to Par Beach, just over half a mile away but en-route found a Football pitch to let Tom-Tom & Rosie stretch their legs, well charge about that is!!!, It turned out this football pitch was part of a much wider sports complex that supported a rather nice cafe, so later than planned we enjoyed hot drinks and again succumbed to more cake😡😡.
It is rather strange, everybody has heard of St. Austell, (Par’s PO address), but it turned out this “nondescript” small harbour “village” has a fully functioning GWR station that is one of the stops on the mainlines: “Paddington to Penzance” and “Cardiff to Penzance” rail routes and perhaps many more, not to mention the direct link to Newquay, so why I ask myself is this so; I did some research.
Lovely walk to Par Sands
Surprisingly Par has quite a history. This quiet fishing village came into prominence in the early 1800’s when a Fowey Businessman, Joseph Treffry, acquired a local copper mine in Par and to be able to export his copper he had to build the harbour. The copper expanded but when it petered out, tin was also being mined, followed by china-clay, all being shipped out of Par harbour. This same Joseph Treffry started to build a tramway to Newquay as at that time his copper was being sent to Swansea for processing, having to sail around the dangerous waters off Lands End. Though he died before his tramway was completed, this was the start of the Newquay – Par railway line we used today, and due to the importance of Par, when the great western railway from London was built, it came via Par and still stops here. Par harbour is now owned by English China Clay and is still in use.
Resting after long walk!
After our coffee break we headed to Par beach; a pretty walk, firstly through some woods then over the sand dunes and into this large bay and as the tide was out, an enormous expanse of sand, the dogs were in heaven.
Par harbour
After a couple of hours enjoying a very pleasant walk along the beach in the sunshine with no wind we headed back towards the village. TT & R continuously ran in and out of the sea, along the beach, chasing other dogs balls etc. they never stopped; how do they do it??? There are three pubs to choose from in Par: the first one didn’t appeal as it was in amongst a row of houses but the second looked more interesting so in we went for a pint but being virtually empty, no atmosphere so didn’t stop for a second.
Par harbour
Heading back to the station we passed the same football pitch, but this time on the opposite side and unknown to us there was a stream there, in they went, one would have thought by now they would have been shattered but no, it was if this was their first run of the day. The good news, being fresh water, it washed the sand/salt out of their coats. Arrived back at the station but this time no running!!!
Another pleasant train ride through the Cornish countryside arriving back in Newquay around 1700hrs then back to Rosie.
Today we had both done in excess of 10,000 steps, around 4,5-miles, quite the norm for Christine but a record for me for quite a considerable time thanks to my new knee, but we were knackered@!!!!
A very touristy but really enjoyable came to an end with another early night
After two enjoyable, boozy and late nights with Lee and Sarah, a gentle morning was called for, so after waving them off, we settled down for a quiet morning. Apart from a few housekeeping chores and a dog walk it was soon lunchtime but the un-forecast rain kept coming.
We can’t stay in all day so after lunch headed out to the National Trust Trevose headland area where we could blow out the cobwebs and walk to the Trevose Lighthouse and later into Padstow for a cuppa.
View from Trevose
The 4-mile journey took the best part of half an hour to accomplish through the narrow Cornish lanes, and the last 1/2 mile was speed bump after another speed bump; the lanes were so narrow with minimal passing places, I think so many speed bumps were rather “over-the-top”; [just saying!!!]. We were surprised by the number of holidaymakers around, but I suppose with the children back at school, retirees can come out and play!,
Our mountain goats!
The car park was at the top of the cliff and didn’t we know it when we opened the doors, the wind!!!! Anyway, coats on, dogs out we trudged down the hill to the lighthouse. Trevose Head Lighthouse was built by Trinity House in 1847 as a guide for vessels in the Bristol Channel, a lighthouse was first proposed for this area of the North Cornwall coast as early as 1809 there being no light at that time to guide ships trading in the Bristol Channel other than Longships Lighthouse to the south and the old Lundy Lighthouse to the north; obviously it couldn’t have been that urgent as it took the best part of 40 years to complete!!! When we got down this hill we were disappointed as it was closed😡😡 so up we went again. The dogs had a “ball”, the road had been cut out of the cliff and all of a sudden our two turned into mountain goats, up and down, up and down still they were happy and I got to practice walking up hill and Christine was happy I’m not on a scooter, win win all around!!!
Off we go!
Next we headed to Padstow and by now the wind had blown the clouds away and the sun was shining. My-My Padstow on a sunny September afternoon, parking was a nightmare, we had to circumnavigate the town twice before we found a space in the enormous car park by the harbour and finished up at the far end; further to walk, but good for my new knee!!!!.
Cherry Blossoms coffee house
We wandered around the harbour and some of the old town and finished up in the “Cherry Blossom coffee house” for a cuppa and a nice, and an unusually very large slice of “calorie busting” cake, lovely-jubbly.
Very tasty
On our walk back to the car we had a good look into Rick Stein’s fish restaurant.
Padstow harbour
Back at the motorhome, what a beautiful sunny late afternoon, pity it is so cold otherwise we could have been outside and enjoyed a bar-b-q.
Due to being so knackered, this evening we just watched TV from the comfort of our beds, followed by an early night.
Surprise surprise; not too early we opened The curtains and no rain with some hints of blue sky, that’s better.
After breakfast Sarah came over with her 3-Labradors and the two of them headed out for their morning dog walk, during which we learnt Tom-Tom and Rosie like blackberries as well the Labradors, apparently they were hoovering them up along the hedgerows as they walked.
Tom and Rosie picking blackberries
Though they are down in Cornwall in their motorhome, Lee is actually working; a new meaning to the phrase “working from home” so Sarah joined us and we headed to Newquay. Again, we brought our car with us so we can get around, just as well as we are in a very isolated part of Cornwall.
Arriving in Newquay late morning with the sun shining we found a parking slot in a side street; lucky or what; reasonably close to the beach. Always a challenge to find somewhere to park for free and with no time limit, wow!!!
Dogs going mad on the beach
The three of us with TT & R headed down to the beach. The quickest way was down steep steps but though I have a new knee, it still isn’t up to loads of steps so we carried walking along the promenade high above the beach until we found the road down; naturally the other end!! Fortunately being September, dogs are allowed to run free on this lovely sandy beach, and they did, with the wind up their tails they were in and out of the sea, running around in great big circles and playing with other dogs; a lovely sight to behold. We on the other hand meandered along the beach watching the surfers and enjoying the blue skies and sun beating down on us, only spoilt by a cold northerly wind whistling around our ears.
Geoff enjoying his pasty
One challenge we set ourselves for today apart from going on a beach, was to have a Cornish pastie and low and behold there was a bakery at the top of the beach selling them. The bakery turned out to be a hut and the only seats available were outside but fortunately this seating arrangement was in the lee of the cliff so we were fairly well sheltered whilst we all enjoyed rather nice Cornish pasties, hot drinks and freshly baked donuts cooked to order. With all the “beach–running” TT & R did, they were very happy to lay down!!!
Sara tucking into her pasty
Christine wasn’t too sure if she had been to Newquay before, but for Sarah it was a nostalgic visit, she used to come here as a child.
Back up the steep road and we headed into town, now a pedestrian only area and we were surprised just how many tourists were still about. Oh yes, we also noted nearly every second shop sold pasties; we didn’t have to rush to get them!!!!
After a very pleasant day we headed back to the car and yes still where we left it and no parking ticket was a bonus, as one never knows if there are restrictions bearing in mind the numerous official car parks charging extortionate amounts for the privilege.
Ball throwing on beach
On the return journey we stopped at Mawgan Porth Beach, a small haven with a clear expanse of sand where dogs are welcome all year round. Unfortunately this place was heaving and parking was a nightmare so I dropped the girls and dogs off to head to the beach, agreed a time for collection and I headed into the countryside to wait in the car. When we met back up, the dogs were soaking and covered in sand; they certainly had another good time and where do they get their energy from??? At least they will be asleep when we leave them in the motorhome for a couple of hours tonight as we are heading out to celebrate Sarah.s birthday.
Lovely walk on beach
Showered, shaved a changed we met up at the appointed hour and headed off to Padstow, Lee had booked a table at a restaurant with the strangest of names, “Prawn on the Lawn” (link below). Again we were amazed how busy Padstow was, the car park was heaving, still we found a place and being early walked into the first pub we came across, the “Old Custom House”, a very old building turned into a pub.
Amazing selection of foods, and so tasty
We strolled up into the old part and entered the restaurant, hmmm interesting and extremely busy; apparently you only get a two hour table booking slot due to its size and popularity. Being Sarah’s birthday Lee had set everything up and soon after arrival a bottle of champagne with fresh oysters arrived to kick things off, though Christine exchanged her oysters for huge tiger prawns. When the four of us go out we don’t do “conventional”, ie starter, main and desert, no, each of us select a starter and have them delivered to the table one at a time, tonight we kept up the tradition, but with “Prawn” in the name of the restaurant, everything we ate was out of the sea. The courses kept coming, scallops, tuna, mackerel, crab, etc., but all cooked in different herbs and spices, every flavour different, quite “a-mazing”, and as a finally we shared a whole turbot, cooked to perfection on the bone and filleted by Lee at the table, wonderful; me-thinks we will be back again!!! Copious amounts of excellent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region accompanied our food and a “finale” of local Cornish ice cream with a “twist”, and I the time honoured tradition we were the last people to leave the restaurant.
Brilliant night, thanks guys x
Christine drove us home and we all finished up in Rosie for a night-cat.
Thank you both for a well organised and thoroughly enjoyable evening and honoured to be invited to help you celebrate your birthday, Sarah. It’s a shame you have to leave tomorrow morning just as things were getting interesting!!!
The best thing about our feast, being all fish we didn’t have a problem getting to sleep, had we had meat, it would have been a different story.