Shamwari Game Reserve: Safaris

Monday 15th Tuesday 16th 2025

Where do we start.   This place is fantastic, safari’s are special, food is excellent, service is impeccable and accommodation is un-believable.   Though this is a fully inclusive deal, there is no holding back on quality of both food or booze, though French Champagne is an extra charge!!!, we did without that!!!

One of the lounges

The days follow the same pattern, one gets up at stupid hour and heads off to the pool bar to meet up with Abel, our personal ranger and enjoy a coffee or tea or alcohol if preferred before heading out to find the wildlife.  Upon your return around 0930hrs you head to breakfast, a 3-course extravaganza after which you could head to the pool bar for coffee and cakes!!!!  Lunch starts around 1300hrs, a selection of Tapas etc., and once finished, afternoon tea is available in the pool bar. When 1600hrs comes, so do the rangers to take us on Safari again.  Back at the lodge for 1930hrs ready for a full-blown dinner with as much quality wine as anybody would wish to drink, then off to bed to start all over again at 0500hrs; quite exhausting.

Room with a garden and view
A different lounge

Our lodge, a separate building with its own pathway and entrance has everything you can think of to make your stay here comfortable, (https://www.shamwari.com/) and a spectacular view through patio doors across the bush.  We were warned about locking up because of the monkeys, but we haven’t had a visit whilst we’ve been in our lodge though we have seen  them flying about the estate gardens etc.

Infinity pool, overlooking the park
Geoff enjoying the pool

Now what most of us are here for, to see wild animals in their natural habitat and this game reserve apparently has “the lot”, it is down to the ranger to spot them and Abel was very “eagle-eyed” which was fortunate as we didn’t always spot them hiding in or behind a bush.

Mr & Mrs lion
Lion wooing a new partner
Lion showing his teeth, apparently they do this when trying to find out if female is ready to mate
They look so innocent
Lioness with two of her four cubs
This lioness had four cubs

The vast area of this game reserve is criss-crossed with vehicle tracks up hills, down valleys and vast plains, and to our untrained eye, how the hell does he know where he is!!!  He doesn’t follow a prescribed route, no he just uses his 27-years experience of this reserve, his tracking skills and instincts. and if no trail, he just drives through the undergrowth in his quest to show his clients everything.  At times he just stops the vehicle, closes his eyes and listens and after a few moments he starts the vehicle again and we are off in a totally different direction and finds something!!!!

Another pair

As I said in the last post, we saw 4 out of the big five, well that was only to wet our lips.  Over the four other safaris we have been up close and personal with everything.  We’ve seen several prides of lions at different points, including their cubs and so close, that if one were stupid enough, one could very nearly stretch out and pat one on the head!!!!  

Mum and baby together
Beware of their horns
Mum and baby
They just don’t worry about the rangers
Rhinos so close

As for rhinos, they are plentiful and again if we approach slowly and switch off they are not bothered, they just keep eating, in fact on a couple occasions we have been right up close to a mother and her calf.  The fully grown rhinos are tagged for the reserve to know where they are at all times, but night-time in particular, as poaching is still rife in Africa.  As we were returning to our lodge at dusk, there was a vehicle approaching us and we passed each other the two drivers passed greetings and chatted for a few minutes.   When we started off again I asked Able who they were, as they  headed off into the bush at dusk, the reply was security police to catch the poachers.   With the tags, they know where to patrol at night; technology put to good use.  The female horns are longer and thinner, used to protect their young whilst the male’s are shorter and stockier used for fighting!!!

Elephants just carry on feeding
Mum and baby
Two boys arguing
Mum and baby having a feed and walk about
Getting close up and personal, they are enormous

Elephants; ah yes graceful elephants, magnificent sight to see them in their habitat and again on numerous occasions, bulls, cows and calves all minding their own business though being one of the big five, we know they can be dangerous but again as long as we don’t point the vehicle at them, they don’t feel threatened.  Able always positioned the safari vehicle side on, never head on as this threatens most animals, the headlamps look like eyes to them!!!   On one occasion we spotted a solitary bull slowly but deliberately walking straight and Able said he was heading for water, so we went round him to get to the water hole before him and wait.   Able said “watch his face as he arrives at a dry hole”, which we did and he was right, his expression changed form anticipation to disappointment, but somehow he managed to suck-up sufficient before heading to his back-up hole!!!

Harder to find were the buffalo
Managed to get one decent photo

Buffalo’s weren’t that easy to find, though we did find some but couldn’t get that close to them; fearsome looking beasts with its long curved horns, but fortunately minding their own business!!!

Actually sat and posed for us
We were so lucky! Apparently some people come and go without seeing anything
Our lucky day

The last of the big five, the leopard was a cunning beast, he hid from us and that’s what they do, we didn’t get a chance to photograph one so we were very disappointed.   The good news though, and by chance we spotted a cheetah, what a beautifully streamlined animal, no wonder it is so fast but not one of the big five as they don’t have the strength to attack a human being; I don’t want to push my luck when you see. Its teeth!!!!   We came across her looking through the fence dividing our reserve from the adjacent one, where there was a male cheetah the other side of this pretty secure electrified fence. There are several game reserves in this area of South Africa and the main reason is to prevent too much in-breeding which will eventually kill-off the various species.  Males of each animal get moved around so new genes are introduced, all part of the overall objective to protect each species for future generations; very commendable.

Our first photos of animals
Mum and baby
Sniffing the ground before he rolls
Now rolling to get clean
Young zebra

Zebras everywhere, and they are extremely difficult to approach, they scamper off at the slightest thing as they are easy prey for the lions.   In fact we came across a dead one that looked as if it had been killed an hour or so earlier so Able tracked the predator who had done this and we found a lioness sleeping after a hearty meal!!!   We went back the following day and since our first visit, a leg and other bits had gone and again we tracked the lion.this time it lead us to a big male with his two lioness’, the tell tale sign was blood on his feet!!!   We returned 12-hrs later and many more flesh eaters had had a go as there wasn’t too much left of that zebra; oh well, that’s the pecking order in nature.

So sad, but guess it’s how they survive, they are not fed by rangers

Giraffes are everywhere, but not too close to there hated predator, the lions!! Giraffes are easy to spot, standing above the bushes and trees.   Again we’ve got as close as we could but not as close as the lions due to their nervous nature.  The females round up all the calves into a “nursery” to protect and teach them about life whilst the males eat and keep an eye out for trouble

Giraffes meandering around
Didn’t have any trouble spotting giraffes
More giraffes

Antelopes and Springboks are everywhere and are fair game along with zebra for the meat-eating predators as none of the animals get fed, nature takes care of everything though there is a vet on hand should there be a medical issue with any of them.  Generally where we come across numbers of antelopes, zebras and Giraffes, there are no lions around, so these four legged chunks of meat can eat and sense danger.

Warthogs didn’t keep still long enough to photograph

Wart Hogs were abundant and not very pretty plus difficult to get near so didn’t spend time with them!!!   What were in abundance were termite mounds, large and small everywhere and Able actually got out of the vehicle to explain that “mound-building” terminates are a species that live in mounds which are made of a combination of soil, termite saliva and dung. These termites live in Africa as well as other countries, the larger mounds here are about a meter in diameter at the base with a dome shaped top. Most of the mounds are in well-drained areas and termite mounds usually outlive the colonies themselves. If the inner tunnels of the nest are exposed, the mound is usually dead. I asked why Able took a stick to chat about termite mounds, apparently some of these mounds harbour snakes, many are venomous; glad we didn’t get out!!!

These termite mounds were everywhere

As we headed out on our last Safari and it was very overcast and rain was expected, we just hoped we’d get away with it🤞🤞.  We were also accompanied by another group of four👹, but hey, we did have 4-other safaris on our own😁😁.  Today is our last chance to try and find the two elusive habitants that have eluded us; the Leopard and the Hippocampus, so headed to the Bushman’s river, but Able said “they don’t like this weather and will most probably hide in the river” ??, but the leopard is really illusive so don’t get your expectations to high!!!

I am told if you look closely you can see eyes of hypo, not sure!

We hadn’t noticed the big Bushman’s river we went to this time as it isn’t generally the best place to see everything, including the Hippo’s, their normal habitat is a “creek” that we’ve passed several times but no Hippo. Able knew how badly we wanted this viewing, so hence our trip to the river, but again, disappointment.   Due to the rain now falling and the steep tracks that were now becoming muddy and slippery, we couldn’t go down so tried to find them with our binoculars; needless to say haystack and needle came to mind though eventually we spotted for a fleeting second, two eyes sticking up from the water.   “Sorry” he said,”that’s the best I can do today”; as he had told us on many occasions, if we want to guarantee a viewing, head to the zoo, but to see them in their natural habitat, come on a safari.  He was a great guide and a nice chap as well, but spoke his mind, he obviously had a great respect and admiration for the wild animals and accepted the cycle of killing for food etc.   

Springbok running around

The rain was steadily falling but we detoured to our dead Zebra to see how much was left, more than expected.  Able’s reasoning for this was the pride of Lions we’d met the previous day (male and 2-females) who we suspected of killing the Zebra had another pressing agenda item.   His two concubines were ready to mate but were playing hard to get!!!  So they just ate enough to keep going!!!   We did go and visit them again so the other 4-could see them but the lady got quite nervous at the prospect of getting too close, so we stayed away👹.  Surely that’s why you go on a Safari??   By now it was teaming down and we were wet and getting cold so Able hotfooted it back to base.

Geoff looking rather wet

This reserve and others offer a microcosm of Africa, representing how things were before the Europeans arrived and basically “buggered” nature up.  One can see the exciting big game right down to termites and everything in between including small tortoises running around, yes running, these move quite quickly!!!    

Moving quite fast for a tortoise

Shamwari game reserve stands in a class of its own. Apparently it has been voted the best game reserve and conservation company in South Africa for 10 consecutive years and has become a favourite among international celebrities.  eg, Golfer Tiger Woods got engaged here, and actors Brad Pitt, Nicolas Cage and John Travolta have all visited Shamwari in the past few years, as have the Pages😎🤠.    Shamwari Game Reserve not only boasts Africa’s most sought-after Big 5 animals, it also aims to rehabilitate an ecosystem almost destroyed by centuries of farming. Situated along the Bushman’s River, the area also supports a stunning variety of flora and fauna. Because of the focus on responsible tourism, the reserve has received the Global Nature Fund Award for Best Conservation Practice.  

One evening we had a bbq, in such a pretty area of the camp
We sat outside but some chose to sit inside one of these units .

Both British TV series: “Safari School” and Animal Planet programme ‘“Shamwari: A Wild Life” were filmed here, showcasing this magnificent reserve to an international audience and yes I would like to re-visit if we have time in the future.

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Our First Game Reserve

Sunday 14th December 2025

Today we head to Shamwari Game Reserve for our first Safari.  We are booked in for 3- nights so hopefully we will get to see the “big five” plus many more, but first the drive to get there.   Up ‘till now we have been disappointed with what we’ve seen, especially when in the Cape Reserve Park!!!

Lovely bedroom with big bed

We checked out after breakfast at a reasonable time and elected to head along the coastal road as it looked like it was going to be a “hot-un”, not a cloud in the sky.  Once clear of Knysna the road opened up and the speed limit went first to 80KPH then to 100KPH and after a few miles the surface changed, and the road got wider and the speed limit went up to 120KPH, wow!!!   We soon realised why, it was a toll road and soon came up to a toll booth in the middle of nowhere!!  Card to the ready, we stopped to pay the R70 fee only to be told to just drive through, no charge; pardon??  We didn’t get an answer just told “drive on”; ok, and we did!!

Infinity pool, overlooking the park

This N2 seemed to go on forever with zero service stations, good job I filled up before we left, Incidentally petrol costs 92-pence a litre here😂😂😂.   The miles rolled by at a steady 120KPH and we got to the stage we needed a coffee/tea and comfort break, also our fuel gauge was slowly going down so decided at the next turn off that points to a town, we’d stop.  

Loads of Giraffe around

Eventually we came across a signpost Pointing to “somewhere”  so came off the N2 and after a couple of miles came into “Somewhere” and the first thing we came across was a bid service station so filled up with fuel.     All the places we have filled up have had two guys dropping onto the car; one does the fuel and the second clean “all” the car windows!!!   Naturally they expect a tip and we have been advised R10 each should do the trick, and it does, they seem very grateful, it is the Equivalent to 44-pence each!!!   Car filled, now our turn to get a drink and a snack.  There was a restaurant, but we chose the “food take-out” counter and for  minute, thought we had stumbled onto a “Greggs”. There was a counter piled with sausage rolls, meat pies, muffins and doughnuts, “a la Greggs” style, though we had to press the button on their coffee machine!!!!  Snacks and drinks paid for headed to some outside tables to eat.  Firstly I have to say the sausage roll was nowhere near as good as Greggs one, but it did the job before we headed back to the N2. 

Lioness with two of her cubs

The N2 is a national route in South Africa that runs from Cape Town through to Ermelo, north of Durban. It is the main highway along the Indian Ocean coast of the country and Its current length of 2,255 km (1400-miles) makes it the longest numbered route in South Africa.   From our point of view it just kept going through very lush vegetation following the coast.

Giraffes meandering around

Eventually we arrived at the outskirts of Port Elizabeth, nearly there we thought but no, we had another 40 km or so to go, still on the N2.   After what seemed like an eternity we WAZE told us to turn off onto an “R” road, which we did, though we were back on a dirt road for circa 10 km; perhaps the “R” stands for Rubbish!!!   Anyway after creating a 10 km dust cloud we turned into the “Shamwari Game Reserve” and reported to reception.  Here we “cleared” formalities, parked the car for the duration of our stay and after emptying the car of everything we needed, we were whisked in a rugged 4×4 the 5/6 kms to the “Long Lee Manor” lodge (https://www.shamwari.com/)   As we drove up to the big gate we noticed all the electric fencing around the place, now we realised why we left our car, we drove through the animal area!!!

Lion coming towards me, I was told to keep still, I was frozen to the seat anyway!

As we walked in they were waiting for us, cold drink and hot towel handed to us, and who they call “the Butler”  had our key and started to tell us about the place as he walked us to our lodge, a bespoke building set amongst the trees.   When one comes here it is all inclusive and we were told lunch was still available; we declined as we’d had our usual big breakfast and a not-so-nice sausage roll!!!   We were also informed that our first Safari will be this afternoon and we muster in the poolside bar at 1600hrs.   They do two Safaris  a day, a 0500hrs and 1600hrs starts but the rest of the day is up to us to enjoy and relax.

Buffalo coming towards us, we all kept still!

Our room is quite magnificent, overlooking a well kept area of lawn and overlooking the game reserve.  Our walk-in Bathroom is huge and then off that, is the walk-in shower with a door into an outside shower!!!, and another door into the “privy”.   Our Butler informed us that monkeys are about and they have developed a method to open sliding doors and turn door handles, so please keep everything locked!!!

Abel loading his gun before we leave

As requested, we “mustered” and met our “Ranger”, a chap called “Able”, though pronounced as “Ahhhbull!!!!   Anyway he is our Ranger for the duration of our time here and the “go-to” person if we need help.

Able , absolute brilliant ranger

After a brief “getting-to-know-you” chat, we headed off to our Ranger vehicle but fortunately for us, the lodges aren’t full so we will have Able all to ourselves😄.

Mummy and baby elephant

We set off into the game reserve, an area of circa 25,000 hectares approx 97 sq miles looking for the big five; (lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants, buffaloes). To our surprise the “big five” refer to the five beasts that can and will, if provoked, kill a human, not their physical size!!!   Anyway Abel explained that he has no control of what animals he can find as they are wild, no interference from humans, they behave just as nature intended.   Our hearts sank, bearing in mind our experience back at the nature reserve at the cape.  

Tortoise enjoying the water

After our 3-hour drive around the reserve, we can announce we actually saw 4 out of the five; we saw a lion, an elephant, a rhino and a buffalo, wonderful.   Naturally we also saw an assortment of others such as zebra, giraffes, wort hogs, spring bocks etc to name a few.  Well what in introduction to the game reserve, and we have another 4-safaris planned over the next two days, who knows what we may see.

Dining area, with waiters known as butlers!

Back to the lodges and then in for dinner, a 5* restaurant with staff tripping over themselves to please, and the food and wine were excellent.  

Back to our cabin and bed, our early morning call is at 0500hrs ready to leave at 0530hrs; what have we let ourselves in for???

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A day off

Saturday 13th December 2025

After a very good night’s sleep and a leisurely breakfast, we were both raring to go so “consulted” the “copious” suggestions Margaret gave us and decided to head to Plettenberg Bay.   Firstly we headed to the Knysna shopping area for a pharmacy and whilst out, get a decent coffee; most of the hotel’s breakfast coffee is not of a good standard; one notch up from instant!!!!!

Plettenberg beach water very cold

Knysna is a bustling coastal town first established by Europeans in 1760’s on the eastern shore of the Knysna lagoon. Today the town is a popular destination for both tourists and senior citizens entering retirement, especially among the British and former expatriates due to the year-round warm climate; maybe we should join them!!   To get a better appreciation of the lagoon and surrounding area we had to head up to “The Heads” later in the day; again recommended by Margaret.  

Lovely big waves

We arrived at Plettenberg Bay beach, parked up and went down for a paddle and yes the sea was just as cold!!   Being a Saturday, there were more people about than usual I guess but not many in the sea; I wonder why??  Most of those were surfers waiting for that elusive big wave that never came.   We walked right to the end and on the way back went into the “Plettenberg Bay Ski Boat Club” for a drink and some calamari, and very nice they were to.   The weather today is much better, blue skies with occasional wisps of high cloud but fairly windy at times, hence the surfers were out.

Lots of surfers

On the return journey we did a detour to “Theson Island”, (another recommendation) situated in the lagoon accessed by a narrow road with big speed bumps, and over a humpback bridge.  Our Sat Nov told us to turn left once there, led straight up to a security post with a barrier.   We explained we just wanted to look around but “nicely” informed this would not happen; this is an exclusive and private estate!!!   We turned around and went up another road where we saw shops and bars etc., with spectacular views across the lagoon.

Theson Island
Houses surrounding the bay
Knysna Heads
Geoff looking over bay
Pictures don’t do it justice, but stunning

It was now we headed up to the “The Heads” lookout point but too early, as Margaret’s suggestion was to watch the sun going down but we didn’t fancy coming back later, so used our imagination!!!  Then back to the hotel where we had a meal and went to bed.   Tomorrow we have a six hour drive to our first Safari if we take the scenic route through the mountains, but eventually decided to go the more direct route, this is two hours quicker.  Though all the roads are good, the speed limits on these “wide” roads are painfully slow at times and frustration sets in.  I have already been “zapped” by a speed camera and a couple of times I’ve had a text message telling me to keep within the speed limits; we are wondering if the car is being tracked or it is bugged ‘cos how the hell did the rental co., (see SMS screen shot ) know what speed limit was broken and when???  The text was timed 17- minutes after the speed limit was broken!!!  Oh well just do better😂😂😂😂

Let’s hope we don’t get a speeding fine
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Meerkats Etc.

Friday 12th December 2025

0415hrs urgh!!!  The alarm went off, 30-minutes to get out and into the car then a 15-minute drive to the start of our Meerkat tour.  We were given a piece of paper with instructions on how to drive to the start but it was dark, the map gave no idea as to distances and being a dirt road, the dust.   As we pulled out of the lodge someone followed us and the way he drove suggested he knew how to get there, so let him overtake us.  Good in a way “if” he was going to the tour, but bad as the dust he kicked up meant we had to stay well back and double guess; all rather concerning but once we hit a Mettled road we could catch him up and follow easily;   Good call as he knew exactly where to go.   When we arrived we asked him if he had been there before as he was so confident about the route, that’s when we knew we had been somewhat stupid, he’d used Sat Nav, why hadn’t we?????

Finally they appeared
Our guide for the morning

After a talk and by now it was getting light we were split into two groups and given a fold up chair and our group was asked to follow our guide.   The other group drove of somewhere!!   After walking 200/300 meters the guide spread our chairs in an arc watching a few mounds of soil with burrows in; the meerkats underground housing complex and we waited.   Our guide was very informative and kept talking and promising that they will appear when they are ready; we still waited.   By now it was daylight but very overcast, no clear sky or sun and this meant the Meerkats weren’t in any hurry to come out, so we waited.   Having sat down in the early morning with no activity we were getting cold, as we waited.   The guide kept talking all things related to Meerkats and said many times they “will” appear when they are ready, so we waited.   Apparently though their burrows are very deep they still get cold at night, and the first thing they have to do is get their muscles working and on a sunny morning they are eager to get going, this morning it was overcast no sun so no hurry to come out; we still waited.   Amongst all the Meerkat information the guide gave us is they only have two missions in life; the first is to keep eating, from dawn to dust and the second to re-produce from dust to dawn!!!!!    We still waited and by now many of us were fidgeting and shivering whilst we still waited.

Meerkats in action

At the lodge we were told the tour lasted no more than two hours and then we return for breakfast.  By now our two hours was nearly up when out of the blue one popped its head up to survey the situation.   According to our Meerkat Expert, they are extremely nervous animals and at the slightest shuffling sound they disappear, but talking, shouting or laughing is no problem and he proved this.   He shouted loudly, nothing happened, he shuffled his shoe on the ground and the Meerkat quickly disappeared, but re-emerged once he/she realised there was no danger.

They all cuddled together to get warm

We stayed and observed them cleaning out their burrows and standing tall trying to get some heat into their bodies to get them moving.   Eventually they slowly started to move away but by now we were both cold and hungry, so a number of us started the trek back to the lodge.  

Ostrich farm we passed en-route
The scenery was stunning

After breakfast we headed out; our destination was Knysna for two nights but our target is to get to “George”, stopping at several “lookout” points along the way to take in some stunning views.   Arriving in George was a bit disappointing, it is a big town with the usual traffic etc., so finding somewhere to get a coffee wasn’t going to work so continued onto “Wilderness” along the “Garden Route”.   Our first priority was to find a beach, Christine was feeling “hard done by” as not had “sea therapy” for so long!!!   We found a beach; (tick-in-the-box), parked and went for a paddle, but B….y H..l it was cold👹👹.  We had hoped that as we arrived into the Indian Ocean the sea would have been a little warmer, but no!!   Now we discovered there were no bars or anything for a drink or coffee so left in disgust.

Wilderness beach
Wilderness beach

Driving along the N2 we came across a big service area so out of desperation pulled in.   Though it was busy etc., we were asked to sit at a table when a waitress would come and take our order; “what at a service station???”; it was very good service too.  

Back on the road we continued on the Garden Route until we reached our hotel, this time for two nights.

Hotel Knysna Log Inn
Dining area

Our hotel: “Hotel Knysna Log Inn” is an all-wood construction made mainly out of the trunks of “Yellowwood”  and other indigenous trees from the forests that were about this area.

Restaurant overlooking the harbour
The waterfront harbour

Once settled we headed down to the waterfront, an area similar to the Cape Town waterfront, but about 25% of that area.   There were a number of restaurants  predominantly fish and sushi so we were very happy and chose one where we could get a seat overlooking the sea.

View from bridge
Few of the many restaurants

After another excellent meal we headed back to the hotel, a 10 minute walk, but unfortunately it was drizzling and neither of us had our raincoats; well. it is what it is!!!   We are having an early night as we were up at 0415hrs!!!!

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Left to our own devices

Thursday 11th December 2025

We’ve probably had our best nights sleep this holiday, the cool room, very quiet, a very comfortable bed, large enough for 4-adults!!!, and of course an excellent meal last night that satisfied us without being too heavy to go to bed on.

Schoone Oordt Country House
Breakfast room

To describe the “Schoone Oordt Country House” would take up too much time but this link will take anybody interested to there site (https://www.schooneoordt.co.za/pages/our-story) well worth a view, and should we ever be back here again, we will certainly stay here at this family run boutique hotel.   Our breakfast, like last night’s dinner was food with a difference.  To start we had freshly squeezed orange to drink then a 4-course breakfast, quite different to anything we’ve experienced before.

The pool
Another part of the garden

The big party in the hotel which made the owners up-grade our room, were all travel agents from around Germany on a fact-finding trip, (or more likely an all expenses paid jolly to South Africa!!!!).  Still they were very friendly and enjoying them selves.

Last night when talking about the old Austin Devon car with Allison (the owners wife), she said it was her husbands first car and he looked “cool” driving it, I did query that statement at the time, but this morning she told me it was his other car he had at that time, (and still owns), this is when he looked “cool”, an AC Cobra: that’s better!!!!

Reform church
Circular seats plus gallery

Reluctantly we said our goodbyes and headed about 100-meters down the road to look inside a Methodist Church Margaret had suggested we visit.   We circumnavigated this lovely crisp white building, admiring the immaculate gardens with assorted gravestone’s, beautifully tended before finding the entrance door.  Once inside we noticed the pews were like an amphitheater over looking the alter instead of the stage.  The other point of difference was the shape of the seating position, it was comfortable, the backs had a rake not like normal wooden pews, straight up!!   Thank you again Margaret for this gem of a visit, we would have completely passed it by.

Seats facing organ and alter

Now we headed for a small village called “Barrydale”, a suggested place for a coffee stop, but when we got there and left the main road and headed into the village, we couldn’t find a coffee shop also we thought there were too many unsavoury looking characters about, so headed on our way eventually stopping in a small town called “Ladysmith”.   Naturally I thought of the “seize of Ladysmith”, a 4-month un-savoury incident that took place in between 1899 x 1900 during the Boer War; I got quite excited to have a look around only to have my, hopes dashed, in was not this Ladysmith, it is another further north😡😡.   Hopefully we will find out more about it during our “battlefield” tours later in the trip.   Anyway we did find a nice old place to enjoy a break.

Just another wine cellar
Me amongst the vines, lovely setting

Our day wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to a winery and again, Margaret had marked the specific vineyard to visit, the “De Krans Wine Cellar” in Calitzdorp, and like all obedient children, did as we were told!!!   It was a lovely hot day and sitting under the canopy of vines was quite refreshing, it was one of those moments that nearly caught us out and got “stuck-in”, we ordered two glasses of the wine Margaret recommended and it went down a treat, but had to prize ourselves away just in case!!

Wow another big bed
Lovely bathroom as well

We now headed to today’s final destination, the “De Zeekoe Guest Farm River Cabin”, a Meerkats destination, but that’s for tomorrow.   Again another beautiful place with a superb bedroom, en-suite and balcony over looking “nature” but completely out in the sticks, even the road to it is a dirt track!!!  So with nowhere to go they had a captive audience for their restaurant, so were forced to eat in.(https://www.dezeekoe.co.za)

View from our bedroom

We had to pre order our food, no problem as they had “Ostrich Fillet steak” on the menu, decision made.  Again the restaurant was overlooking their very green gardens, no water shortage around here!!!   Apart from Meerkats, there is also an Ostrich Safari further up the road, we are in Ostrich territory.

Ostrich farm

We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and then headed off for an early night as we have to get up at 0415hrs, and drive 15-mins to the Meerkat tour starting at 0500hrs, I hope it’s worth it!!!

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Away from Cape Town

Wednesday 10th December 2025

After 8-days in CPT it was time to move on, we have had a really good time here and visited many sights, not all, so may have to return!!, but enough to get a good appreciation of the city and surrounding area.

Helena’s Restaurant!
Stellenbosch
Some of the different architectural features at Stellenbosch

Once checked out and Margaret had arrived we got going but we were still unhappy with the car’s locking mechanism so our first stop was the Europcar rental office.   Once they explained the idiosyncrasies of the Japanese car, we were on our way, this time fairly confident we could lock it🤞🤞.

Some beautiful houses here

Margaret very kindly volunteered to take us part of the way to our night stop in Swellendam to show us some places of interest, and also take us the longer way, but more scenic through the mountains; Waze would have taken us the boring, direct route on the N2.

The local church

Our first ”proper” stop was the second oldest town in SA, Stellenbosch; a very big university town, and today just happened to be the day their degrees were handed out.  All around the Campus were the proud parents with their off-spring, dressed in their gowns clutching their scrolls, and all “scrubbed up”; no wonder parking was difficult!!!

Part of the university

Eventually we managed to park then had a good stroll around.   Stellenbosch is in South Africa’s Western Cape province and is surrounded by the vineyards of the Cape Winelands and the mountainous nature reserves of Jonkershoek and Simonsberg. The town’s oak-shaded streets are lined with cafes, boutiques and art galleries. The architecture gives a sense of South Africa’s Dutch colonial history, as do the Museum’s in period houses, and gardens.   All the oak trees lining the streets are protected and cannot be removed apparently.

Driveway to Delaire Graff Estate

After enjoying a coffee stop in a pavement cafe we head out, our next stop is a winery, the Delaire Graf Estate owned by a diamond dealer, naturally!!   

Lawrence Graff OBE

Upon arrival we were very impressed by the gardens leading up to, and the building in particular, very swanky.    Time was not on our side so bypassed the diamond shop 😁and headed straight to the tasting area and just ordered 3-of their Chardonnays.   Naturally that wasn’t quite what the winery wanted so sent a very nice, intelligent and knowledgeable young lady to “soft sell” us 6-bottles that can be sent to U.K. for only €12 or if we ordered now, a special introductory deal at €2!!!   To be fair, the wine we tasted wasn’t worth the money they were charging, but hey, it was a super place to visit.

Dine with a view

Our next stop was in the town of Franschhoek.   Franschhoek is a town also in South Africa’s Western Cape with centuries-old vineyards and Cape Dutch architecture.   Here there is the Huguenot Memorial Museum and neighbouring monument to honour the area’s French settlers, (https://huguenotsociety.org.za/history-of-the-huguenots/)   who arrived in the 17th and 18th century, escaping persecution for being Protestants in a Catholic country, ie France.  We had already parked the car, but in this town there are many “Tuk-Tuks” so naturally Margaret “spontaneously” booked one to take us up to the monument.   I asked the driver if they are built in SA, no they’re imported straight from India he said.

Lovely square in FransChhoek
We all squashed in!
Huguenot Memorial Museum

Whilst in this area, Margaret suggested we “popped” into a local winery, the “Haut Cabriere Cellar”, for a quick one!!!   Well the quick one took a little longer as we shared a platter of cheese and hams, delicious.    Another superb estate sporting good “Quaffable” wines; but I was driving!!!!  Because this area was predominantly French a century or more ago, its roots still linger and food here is more French than other parts of SA,

Another stunning view whilst enjoying wine with cheese

Back on route, following the twisty but wide road through the Franschouek Pass until we reached “Houw Hoek Farm”, another winery of course where Margaret had arranged to meet her sister for a lift back to “hers”.  We left her clutching a glass whilst we headed to the car but just then her sister and husband arrived with their dog.   We chatted for a bit before being ushered away by Margaret as we still had a couple of hours to drive.   Again another big “thank you” to Margaret for her expert knowledge of this and the surrounding area.

Another beautiful place to enjoy a cuppa tea this time
Lounge
Here we said goodbye to Margaret, thankyou so much for taking us to some lovely places.

We now hot-footed to our overnight stop, Swellendam, a boutique hotel, formerly someone’s home set in magnificent gardens.   Upon arrival we were told that there was a big party staying and that we had been up-graded, well wow, we had the suite or family room which included a second bedroom with 4-bunk beds in and our bed was massive!!!    What was nice, upon arrival we were taken straight into the bar for a drink and then we did the checking in procedure, very civilised.

Stunning hotel

Originally we were going to head to town for dinner but changed our minds and ate in.   I have to say the food was very tasty but a rather unusual menu, still we didn’t need anything else that evening and had our best nights sleep so far.

Our bed for the night, we should have stayed longer
Our lounge, what luxury

In their parking lot there was a garage and I spotted a “project” car so naturally had to see what it was and it turned out to be an old Austin A40 Devon.  These were built between 1947 – 1952 and according to the hotel, it was the owners first car!!! 

Not the actual car but same model.

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