Oldies On Tour

Position @ 1200 UTC

38⁰ 01.01 N 31⁰ 06.93 W

Horta Marina

A quiet day today, last of every bodies washing completed, we have all got clean beds and clothes and hopefully we have all had showers! Andrew chased around to get his air tickets out of here. Yes unfortunatly Andrew has to leave us, no matter how much we tried to get him to stop, he was adament he has to go. Business was his excuse I think, he shoiuld retire like the rest of us! Any way Andrew, as usual it has been a pleasure to have you aboard both for your sailing skills and your powers of entertaining us. Your sea shanties must be writen down and kept for posterity, Once again any time you want a sail, Anam Cara is waiting for you.

Whilst with Andrew, he fixed the cotter pin at the bottom of the forestay. This pin has become known as the “Cotter Mcrae” due to the fact that Chris (Mcrae) had a situiation whilst sailing one of the worlds oceans, on his boat the split pin came out/broke and the cotter pin fell out and the forestay went “sailing!” so hence Cotter Mcrae.

Paddy and I went fresh food shoppingin the market though the choice was limited it was fresh.

This afternoon there was an Island coach tour that many people went on unfortunatly I coulodn’t go as I had to clewar ou and after waiting an hour to be sen, it was too late, the coach had gone!

A short siesta in the cockpit (the sun was shining!) followed by a Bar B Q on the marina wall, (only organised at the last minute), turned out to be a great sucess both Lyall and Rob had done a good job organising various boats to supply or prepare something for the bar b q. Our Paddy made a whole pile of kebabs, very nice they were.

We had a fairly early night as early start tomorrow, a day sail to “Angra do Heroismo” on the Island of “Terceira” 70 miles, can’t be bad!

Position @ 1200 UTC

38⁰ 01.01 N 31⁰ 06.93 W

Horta Marina

A very long good night’s sleep was had by all of us and probably helped by the alchol we all consumed yesterday: Worth every drop! In fact we had “Kir” o Brixham buddy up to us in the early hours of the morning and were told there were 5 people on our decks lending a hand, yet we all slept through this activity!

Laundry this morning was the priority quickly followed by Customs and Immigration; by heck, I thought the Caribbean was bad enough for paper work etc but here I had to go to 4 offices for this that and the other. I have to repeat the performance when we clear out and each island we visit, we have to go through the same rig marlole; 16 times in total whilest in the Azores!

Back to European ports and we don’t have a plug to connect into the mains, typical! Chris and Andrew were despatched to find one. We are in such close proximity to all the other boats that we daren’t run the generator!

I had a second load of laundry which I managed to get through the system before the place closed,soat least when I get back to Spain there wont be mountains of dirty washing!

This evening was a reception by the tourist board, a finger buffet with drinks followed by Prize giving for this leg. Unfortunatly the minister for tourist was unable to attend at the last moment so the main (serious) prizes have been put on hold ’till we get to St Miguel. This was folowed by an early night as still we are all knackered!!!

Tomorrow we have some jobs to do,cleaning the boat but more importantly we have to reverse the cotter pin at the bottom of the main forestay. When the stay was re-connected in Trinidad after Anam Cara was put into the water, the cotter pin was put in from the wrong side. so instead of the cotter pin shoulder taking the tension, the split pin ntakes it. We have already had to replace the split pin once and don’t want to do it again!

I also have to book out as we leave 0530 hrs Sunday Morning; this is before the customs offices etc open and we are sail 70 miles to Angra de Heroismo, on the Island of Terceira.

Position @ 1200 UTC

38? 31.97 N 28? 37.49 W

Horta Marina, Faial

We crossed the finishing line at 0907hrs UTC but due to a severe drop in winds during the early hours of the morning, we had to cross the line using the engine!!!

Still got into the outer harbour and waited instructions as to wher to berth. It was like Picadilly Corner, boats flying about everywhere,anyway we were instructed to move into the inner Marina,set fenderson Port side and buddy up to “Gin” of London.We drove into a very restrictd marina, then had to do a 360? turn and sdie up to “Gin”andnaturally we did just that first time and got a round of applause for my trouble.

I couldn’tdo Customs and immigration as 1of the officials had togotoa funeral,so tomorrow.We all did our own thing, I had a napand acoupleof hours laterwentfor a shower. Ialso took a bagof laundry but the laundrette wasfull sowill have togo back tomorrow morning.

Happy hour was at Pete’s bar and following this we all went to a restaurant where there was no menu, it was a set meal. everybody had a plate of uncooked meats and fish, somesalad,red wine andavery hot stone straight from the oven and we all had to cook our own meats etc on it..Novel but enjoyable,everybody had a great night.

Tomowrow we will work out the mileages etc for the trip, but today was about relaxing and having a few drinks,gladto be back on terra firma after quite a harrowing trip.

Position @ 1200 UTC

38⁰ 01.01 N 31⁰ 06.93 W

Nautical Miles traveled in last 24 hrs:- 147

We had a good night last night, we had both the Jib and Staysail fully poled out and we were going along at 6 knots and with extra gusts occasionalaly reached 9 knots, very satisfying after the past 48 hours as can be seen by our through mileage, 147, best for a few days!

All things being equal by the time everybody reads this log we should be safely in Horta on the island of Faial in the Azores. We are expecting to be in mid morning.

As today is our last full day on board as this crew,we had scrambled eggs with salmon and washed down with Coffee and Brandy, rather nice and different. After breakfast would you believe it we had to reef theJib as we had increeasd winds gusting to 37 knots! and boat speed went up to 9 knots and we were surfing

Today was also the big change over. Most of our web site followers will be aware of the ongoing saga with our chart plotter and the fact we have one on loan from Raymarine, well we have finished with the North America and Caribbean software and had to change the disc over to the Iberian software. The last time we did this change in 2008 changing from Ibeian to Caribbean, it didn’t workso here we are about to do this change. To try and ensure nothing went wrong, we completely shut down all alectronic systems including “George” (Automatic Steering) did the change and switched on, hey preto it worked, what a load off our minds not that it would have been too much of a hardship as we do have back up paper charts. Unfortunatly7 we do not have a Portuguese courtesy flag, we tried to buy one in Tortola and Bermuda, but to no avail. I hope we can buy one in Horta

So what next, Oh yes, Bond, (Moonraker) but only “B” no other “B or C” today, still full from our breakfast!

We are still driving through the water with the reef in the poled out Jib running between 61/2 and 7 knots, a much better day today thank goodness.

Dinner was about clearing up several left overs, can’t waste good food! and Paddy made a spctactular job of it under very difficult circumstances. Running, with two sails poled out, 25 knot winds and 3 meter waves all contributing the boat wallowing from side to side. We do still have a little main in the vain hope of reducing the side to side wallowing but it is not working as far as we can tell. Of course, I could be completely wrong and it is working and how much worse it would be without it!!!

To day all the ARC paqrticipents received an email from the owner of “Setantii” the boat that was lost. I have attached it to todays log for our followers to see and read how those on the seas, even in today’s world, still look out for each other.

The evening sun is out, puffsof cloud about but the wind is cold. We are running tonight with the sail layout we have run all day. If we need to reef, then whoever is on watch can manage. The main will be left as it is for the reasons already given.

The only talking point on board is at what time tomorrow we will get into Horta Harbour!

Quiet night for my watch wind good, speed good and stars and moon shining

The following e mail was sent to all the ARC Europe Fleet

We are now home in the UK after 4 days onboard the MV Esmeralda. Captain Solis, the Officers and Crew of MV Esmeralda looked after the crew of SY Setantii with warm and friendly hospitality, care and sympathy. We thank and applaud Captain Solis and his crew for their seamanship and their unselfish commitment to the safety and lives of fellow sailors.

In mid ocean access to immediate assistance is difficult, you have to be resourceful and self reliant but when you are in real danger MRCC Falmouth are on duty 24/7 365 days a year. We are grateful to MRCC Falmouth and their Portuguese colleagues at the MRCC Ponta Delgada for coordinating our rescue. Their commitment to the safety of lives at sea is unstinting, professional and unbiased.

Thanks to Gilly for coming to our aid he gave me real hope that I may save Setantii. Thanks to Ashia and Fizz who somehow were able to contact us via VHF on Esmeralda. Your words conveyed the thoughts of the ARCE fleet and helped us through some difficult hours and days, we knew that we were part of a larger family who cared deeply for our welfare and shared in our grief.

I hope to see you on Lagos with my wife Ann, maybe Tom and John may also come along.

Safe, happy and fast sailing

Bill

Position @ 1200 UTC

37⁰ 14.37 N 33⁰ 51.77 W

Nautical Miles traveled in last 24 hrs:- 125

A good night’s sailing: When I took over from Chris at 0600 hrs we were doing around 6 knots under the full jib and staysail with the main well furled. The wind was about 15 Knots and better still from the direction we wanted. So for the first time in a week we were actually sailing straight for the Azores, long may it continue. Around 0900 hrs Andrew popped his head up so we took the opportunity to pull out the main, 7 knots, at last we were cooking on “gas!”

I did the usual1200hrs UTC log at 1000hrs (boat time) quikly followed by the emergence of Paddy and Chris. We went through the weather report as usual and hoping that we can believe it what we read we have a clear run into Horta. So for lunch we had Pancakes made by Paddy followecd by bubble and Squeek, again made by Paddy following a quick lesson on how to make it a few days ago by Andresw; a quick learner is Paddy as er B & S were perfect. One for her to take back to the USof A when ever that is!

Siesta time for two of us followed by Bond in “A View To A Kill” then another consultation over the weather and what sails to set for the night as it has changed its velocity and direction though we are still managing 5 knots, The smart money seems to be that the wind will carry on veering and eventually passing into a North West wind. Sowepoled outboth the staysail and the Jib as we could run downwind and adjust a the wind veered round. If this appens we would go a little north of the rhuim line but as the wind ends up as a north westerly, we would be well placed to steer east south east and into Horta. So far yet so close!!!

Late this fternoon we saw amost amazing site. Firstly we noticed hundreds of sea type birds swarming over the sea around us, next we were surrounded by what looked like hundreds of dolphins they were everywhere, but what was amazing was how all these dolphins worked together and surrounmded schools of fish, sort of rounded them up so to speak so that they could all have their supper. The birds were then taking their opportunity to have their supper at the same time. How these dolphins knew what to doand how was amazing it was as if there was a head dolphin managing everything. We sailed into them and sailed through and out of them and they dkidn’t give a toss, they were to busy!

Paddy made a pasta dish for dinner which was both very nice and filling. Generator was going for a few hours this afternoon so batteries topped up for the night and as we settled into our nightly routine the stars were out and were sailiung along at 51/2 to 6 knots and the wind up our stern before midninght, where it will end up by the morningf is anybodies guess!.

Position @ 1200 UTC

36⁰ 57.23 N 35⁰ 56.62 W

Nautical Miles traveled in last 24 hrs:- 120

What a “Quiet” night, had to engine all night and travelling between 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 knots, still batteries fully charged and warm engine room to dry out clothes!

I went up for 0600 hrs watch and still on the engine but there was some wind building from the North, North East. At about 0700 hrs and to get her moving I let out the jib. Speed went up but we had to move more south than we wanted as the wind had veered a bit. So all looking good we increased the jib and put out the staysaill, 7 1/2 knots great, engine off and we were on our way, well we thought we were. Wnd increased to up to 25 knots so reefed the jib and reefed the main. speed dropped and boat back upright again. So far so good untill wind increased again, we slackend off the main and reefed some more jib. One would have thought we were now set but no in came the jib, now just sailing under staysail and reefed in main. So what else, easy, for good measure rain. It poured heavely all morning. 2 minutes in the cockpit and one is soaked. Thank goodness for heavy oilys, the spray hood and bimini give no protection and will need replacing in the summer, more expense!!! still we were thinking we may have to do this sometime.

Paddy came up trumps this morning and cooked a tin of small cocktail sausages we had with our last tin of baked beans and a tin of mushrooms, very good and warming. Unfortunatly we didn’t have any bread, so we know what my job is today, bake a couple of loaves. This task is usually a pleasure but today, everything semed to be against me. On our boat receipe the start process is to mix a certain amount of sugar with a given amount of tepid water and when mixed add the yeast. Unfortunatly I had run out of our normal yeast and had to use some we bought in the USVI’s. After 10 minutes this mix should froth and bubble up. It didn’t so went through the process again, no, did’t work so thought 3rd time lucky. Same thing happened, a little froth on top but nothing like the old yeast did. Anyway I had the flour ready so I chucked it in and mixed it as normal wondering at what point I would be throwing this mix away. When mixed, I divided it into two and let it settle and hopefully rise. To my surprise it did rise, wow! We also had a number of over ripe bananas so made 1 conventional loaf and mixed the bananas with most of the other bread mix. The balance I made into rolls. Lighting the oven was the next hurdle; we were on a port tack and the oven kept gong out, I couldn’t see this bread now getting cooked. All this time, Andrew was fighting with the boat in 28 knott winds gusting to 35 and rain pouring down. It took 4 attempts to get the oven to keep going;.I would light it and 5 mins later it was out; played havoc with my bread! well so I thought. The normal loaf was what shall we say,”normal” the dozen rolls were good though there sizes were interesting, and as for the banana cake/loaf, well what a gooey mess, still I have no doubt that with custard it will lbe fine. I then iced the second half of the carrot cake I had made a few days ago. What a day to choose to make bread etc./,

Cleared up,washed up and put things away and guess what; the rain stopped,the winds died so fast it was un canny, the seas flattend and the sun came out, all in th spaceof about half an hour and yes you have guessed we were back to motoring, would you believe that!!!! We took the time to refill the main diesel tank, we have about 15 gallons left in green containers and 3/4 of a tank, unfortunatly not enough fuel to motor all the way to Horta (Azores) so we must have this south westerly that has been talked about all week,

Because of the dreadful day we had experienced weather wise we we had planned a Chilli Con Carn from tins with rice and bread rolls! so that is what Paddy expertly prepared but it was such a nice evening we enjoyed our dinner outside in the cockpit.

Clearing after dinner, we couldn’t set any sails as there was ninimal wind, 2-4 knots, so pointed Anam Cara straight at Horta and motored.hopeing for wind during the night, I wonder if it will come! It was 2300 hrs as I went injto my final hour on watch and, what’s that I feel and hear, wind? by heck it is, and its blowing in the right direction and at 7 – 9 knots so as I was on watch, out came the jib and an altertation to the staysail setting and we were off, albeit amotor sailing; but at least we were doing 6 knots. Andrew took over at midnight but still had to keep the engine on, lets hope th night air brings forth something!